Do you like fresh flowers? Nearly everyone does, except, perhaps, those who are allergic to plants. Dew-kissed roses, smiling sunflowers, and vibrant tulips are just some of the lovely blossoms that can adorn your home or office space or bring joy to those you care about. But do you know how to choose a florist and then select the proper arrangement for a given occasion?

First, look for a florist you can trust. There are fly-by-night shysters who will not hesitate to take advantage of unsuspecting customers by pretending to offer a beautiful bouquet, requesting credit card payment online or over the phone, and absconding with the money but not delivering the order. It is always a good idea to do business with a florist who is well known and respected in your community. Stop by the shop and check out the latest designs and arrangements to see if they appeal to your sensibilities. You will soon know whether you want to do business there or not. “Fresh, trusted, and delivered today” (FTD) is the motto of the organization that many florists belong to and offers some measure of security.

When you do find a florist whose artistry you admire, look through the catalogs or displays for an idea of the range and styles that are available. Find out if the florist is willing to work with you on special orders and arrangements. You may want to open an account so you can telephone orders later or send online orders on short notice. Developing a business partnership with your florist can facilitate transactions to create a proactive situation for everyone involved. Some florists will let you carry a balance from one month to the next as long as it doesn’t get too large or you don’t stop making payments.

Floral arrangements are useful for a number of situations. You can send a congratulatory gift to a coworker or friend for a promotion, retirement, or anniversary. Personal holidays and events like birthdays and moving to a new home are good reasons to send flowers. A fresh bouquet adds a pleasant touch to your boss’s desk, your pastor’s study, or your secretary’s office for calendar days celebrating these individuals and their jobs. Sometimes a planter or an attractive arrangement can express special sentiments like “I love you” or “I’m sorry” more effectively than words can.

Remember to give some thought to the vase or container you choose, along with the flowers. The vase should fit a designated space in the area it is intended to fill. Oversize or glass vases may present an occupational hazard for workplace deliveries. It’s also a good idea to make sure your intended recipient is not allergic to flowers before you send a large bouquet.

Flowers bring a touch of nature to our most civilized spaces. Their beauty and purity remind us of the natural simplicity that exists all around if we take time to notice and admire it. Visit your local florist soon to explore the many gift-giving options that exist in the world of fresh and silk flowers.

Choose from a bevy of floral topics when you visit Flower Lot at http://www.flowerlot.com.

For people who would like to do more gardening but live in a short growing season area, a hobby greenhouse is the answer. A hobby greenhouse is not large enough to produce vegetables or flowers on a commercial basis. It will, however, give you a place for a tomato plant or two and some fresh greens even if you live in the northern regions.

Greenhouse enthusiasts even have their own association, called the Hobby Greenhouse Association, which publishes a quarterly magazine. The organization also sponsers events and helps individuals connect to get help with the aspect of gardening that they are interested in, whether it’s growing cacti or saving seeds.

If you are in the market for a hobby greenhouse, there are several types on the market. The smallest type is not large enough to walk into and must be accessed from the outside. It resembles an old-fashioned phone booth made all of glass and outfitted with shelves. This type is designed to fit as many plants as possible in as small a place as possible. The shelves are made of glass to allow as much light as possible to reach plants on the lower shelves. Another inexpensive version of this sort of hobby greenhouse is shelving covered with a zippered tent of clear plastic. This sort of arrangement is great for the small-scale hobby gardener wanting a place to keep her flowers or houseplant starts.

There are a variety of designs of hobby greenhouse that are large enough to walk into but made entirely of clear glass or plastic. They are often about the same size as a small storage building. Some independent builders have started making these to sell locally. Among national brands, one of the nicest is called the "Solar Prism." It is called this because of it’s unique construction. This hobby greenhouse is made of a single piece of durable clear plastic which is designed to work like tiny prisms side by side. They trap the rays of the sun and shoot them back into the greenhouse at all angles. For this reason, these little greenhouses are said to glow when the weather is cloudy.

Better hobby greenhouses are equipped with automatic sensors that open vents which allow ventilation and keep the interior temperatures from getting too high. These are a great labor saver, but can get expensive. Another benefit sometimes found in nicer greenhouses is a built in irrigation or misting system. Members of the Hobby Greenhouse Association, or HGA, have invented many interesting designs of greenhouses.

If gardening is your hobby, greenhouse growing will interest you. With a greenhouse, you can have the earliest tomatoes and salad greens all year. You can also start seedlings for the main garden early in the spring when outdoor temperatures would kill them. A hobby greenhouse can be a good investment.

Find out more about hobbies of all types at the Learn How Guides - where you can learn how to do just about anything!

Most working individuals with families target a home as their primary investment. Since the home is generally considered symbolic of one’s social status, many exert much effort to make their homes a beautiful and comfortable one without sacrificing functionality and the budget. This attitude also helps boost the property’s value and makes the dwelling a personal statement of the homeowner.

This motivation drives a multi-billion dollar market for home refurbishments, fixtures and related maintenance and services. One particular segment that thrives on home building and renovation is the market for patio canopies, covers and accessories.

The exposure that patios have to rain, snow, sun and the elements has made canopy manufacturers come up with varying models made of different materials to address this concern. For added comfort, canopy makers typically offer waterproof systems with roof tensioning and related support to prevent water accumulation. Made-to-order patio canopies can take 3-4 weeks before delivery.

One solution to protect patios from nature is the use of aluminum patio cover kits and retractable awnings. Such outdoor patio covers are generally for long-term use, maintenance-free and comply with standard municipal load ratings and provisions of the International Building Code. The retractable quality allows one to adjust awnings depending on the weather condition. Aluminum canopies also come in do-it-yourself models that can be used to augment a current deck, as carports or, for wealthier homeowners living near the water who have boats – protection for their vessels. Extended patio canopies allow homeowners practically continuous appreciation of the outdoors.

Patio canopies also have use for residences with a swimming pool, the backyard deck or other large and exposed areas. These flexible and pre-engineered structures can be attached to an existing home, over the target area to be covered or set up as a stand-alone unit. Canopies can also be made of steel while maintaining their retractability and flexibility. For added comfort, privacy or security, some manufacturers even offer screen attachments to close off a desired area. For wide-open patios, canopies effectively make them an extension of the house or a new room – giving the homeowner wider space and more comfort.

Homeowners have a wide range of options to better protect their patios and homes in general, ensuring also that visiting family and friends can be entertained outside regardless of weather conditions. Canopies also allow the owner to read a book, have tea or simply relax outside on the patio without any worry. Some canopy makers offers terms for individuals seeking a custom-made look with wind-release protection, awning flexibility and other desired features.

The US Census Bureau has noted that backyard patios have become an increasing fixture of new single-family homes: 45% of such dwellings have them, rising from 37% in 1992. This increase has fuelled a related jump in outdoor furniture sales: Figures from the American Home Furnishings Alliance reported a 129% increase in purchases of canopies, tables and other outdoor items from $1bn more than 10 years ago to $2.3bn in 2003.

That surge in demand has made retailers increase their focus on outdoor collections, with Hold Everything and West Elm launching their initial outdoor line in 2005. Separately, Restoration Hardware covered outdoor entertaining on 52 pages of its summer catalog, more than double the 25 pages it devoted to the category in 2004.

Some canopy covers are made from heavy-duty vinyl and are available in various sizes, allowing for easy maintenance and storage. Several makers offer vinyl patio units with limited 15-year warranties. As an alternative, companies also offer lattice patio cover kits created primarily for garden settings.

The market already offers patio canopies made from Alumawood, or aluminum material that feels and looks like wood. The product does not pose any of the problems identified with wood, including peeling, warping, repainting and termite attacks.

Patio canopies also extend beyond the residential market. Eide Industries, Inc. offers both permanent and temporary or portable models, with frames made from aluminum tubing or galvanized steel and fabric covers made from an extensive line of canvas products, for businesses and other non-residential users.

These exterior and interior products appeal to restaurants, resorts, hotels, retail shops, convention centers, theme parks, and exhibits and trade shows. For businesses fronted by a sidewalk, setting up a canopy along the path would help shade passers-by and also possibly draw potential customers to the shop. Combined with appropriate lighting at night, patio canopies add to the overall look of a business even during off-hours.

For more great patio cover info and advice check out: http://www.coverseeker.com

There are times that we can never curb the forces of nature. This just goes to show that nature is, indeed, powerful and can destroy anything and everything. So, the only way we can do is to provide protection from the raging effects of nature.

One way to do this is through waterproofing. It has been a great technique in preventing the penetration of water to any material.

Whenever you waterproof a material, you apply a certain waterproof matter that is designed to provide utmost protection against the imminent effect of water. This, in turn, serves as a wall between the material and water.

There are many types of waterproofing. One of them is canvas waterproofing. This method is used particularly on materials made of canvas.

In most instances, the typical type of cotton canvas is already a waterproof material. Therefore, it does not need any waterproofing. Its fibers puff up whenever they are exposed to water, thus, it closes the knits of the canvas.

However, because of the canvas’ vulnerability to mildew and “bird droppings,” it is still subjected to canvas waterproofing. This is because canvas waterproofing does not only protect the canvas from water alone but also from other substance that can cause damage on the item.

So, for those who want to know canvas waterproofing, here are some pointers you need to know:

1. Do not use silicone-based canvas waterproofing.

Never attempt to use silicone-based canvas waterproofing on acrylic canvas. Silicone is clashing to the original application.

Normally, acrylic canvas primarily contains a canvas waterproofing chemical known as fluorocarbon, which in turn, repels the silicone material when applied. If this happens, it will result into an erratic treatment. Silicon can also eliminate the “stain-resistance” substance in the acrylic canvas.

2. Use a product with fluoropolymer.

When doing a canvas waterproofing, it is best that you use a fluoropolymer-based substance. This type of canvas waterproofing is compatible with the acrylic canvas. Hence, it will result into a more durable and sturdy acrylic canvas.

3. Use a waterproof material that contains petroleum.

Petroleum-based material has long been proven to be effective when doing a canvas waterproofing. It is very compatible with acrylic canvas. Petroleum-based substances work best in canvas waterproofing than those substances that are water-based.

The best way to identify a petroleum-based substance to be used in canvas waterproofing is to through its pungent smell.

4. When performing a canvas waterproofing, do it outdoors.

It is best that you do canvas waterproofing outside the house because of the substance’s very strong odor. You might get suffocated once you do it inside the house. Therefore, it is best that you do canvas waterproofing where there is proper ventilation.

Besides, these strong substances used in canvas waterproofing can also damage your furniture made of plastics. So, it is a must that you take extra care when doing canvas waterproofing.

5. Use protective covers for sensitive furniture.

If you will do a canvas waterproofing on a canvas dodger, it is best that you protect your plastic furniture first before you start with the process. You can do this by placing foil over the plastic materials.

6. Do a spot test first.

It is best that before you start the process, do a spot test first. This is to know whether the substance used in canvas waterproofing will not discolour your canvas or cause further damage.

7. Remove the canvas from the boat.

It is best that before you start waterproofing, you should first remove the canvas from the boat. This is to ensure that the hard surfaces will not slick. Also, there are waterproofing substances that can cause a damaging reaction against gelcoat.

However, if you find this tedious and very unworkable, try to protect all areas vulnerable to “overspray” instead.

8. Let it dry first.

After waterproofing, let the canvas dry first before reinstalling it. In this manner, the pungent smell will soon be eliminated.

However, experts strongly suggest that after the canvas has been dried, it would be better to apply a second dose of waterproofing. This is to ensure durability on the material. It is still safe to do this and will not affect the fabric’s overall condition.

9. Reapply when necessary.

Repeat the process whenever the canvas is exposed in callous condition. Though, experts say that after doing a waterproofing, the protection is guaranteed for one year at the least.

So, now that you know how to do canvas waterproofing, you can be assured that your canvas will always stay in top condition. As they say, it is better to prevent damage than to cure it.

For more great waterproofing info and advice check out: http://www.waterproofingadvisor.com

Trees add so much to the home landscape! They provide shade, clean air, habitat for wildlife, value to your property, and even memories.

If your yard does not have any trees at the moment, you may want to consider planting some. Studies have shown that trees and landscaping add value to your property. Even if you do not intend to sell your property, trees can provide years of enjoyment. If you have trees in your yard, check to see that they are healthy. If they are near the end of their life expectancy or show signs of decline, you may want to plant new trees that will become established before the old trees are removed.

If properly located and planted, trees can help control energy costs. A large shade tree planted on the southwest side of the house can provide cooling shade in the summer, helping reduce air conditioning costs. Once the leaves drop in the fall, the winter sun is free to warm your house on cold winter days. Evergreen trees, planted to block cold winter winds, can help reduce winter heating costs.

Have you wondered what you could do to reduce greenhouse gases and address global warming? Planting trees will help! One of the greenhouse gases causing the most concern is carbon dioxide. Plants take this gas out of the air and use it in photosynthesis. Carbon is stored in the wood and living tissues of trees. When leaves fall and are composted, carbon is added to the soil. This improves the soil for plant growth and stores more of the carbon in the form of soil organic matter. Carbon can be stored for hundreds of years in the trunks of trees or in the form of lumber, furniture, and other wood products. By planting trees in your yard, you can help reduce greenhouse gases.

Trees also provide shelter and food for a variety of wildlife. While installing bird feeders will help attract birds to your yard, providing them with nearby trees and shrubs to escape danger, build nests, and obtain food, will be even more effective. Squirrels and other small mammals use trees for nesting sites and food sources. When selecting trees, consider what food value they may offer to the wildlife in your community.

Trees can offer years of enjoyment. Planting trees and watching them grow can be part of your family’s memories. Consider planting a tree to commemorate a milestone in your family’s life. While raking leaves may seem like a chore as you get older, jumping in piles of leaves can be a treat for children. Hanging a swing, building a tree house, or simply relaxing under the shade of a tree on a hot summer day can be a memorable experience.

Paul is Head of Training for a major UK Charitable Organisation with a wealth of experience in personal development, management development, e-learning and operational management. In addition he owns PK eBooks (http://www.pk-ebooks.co.uk) and has just published a Home Owners Guide to Landscaping eBook which can be found at http://www.pk-ebooks.co.uk/home_landscaping.htm

If you are preparing beds for landscaping around your house this article should simplify the process for you. I say that because of everything that is written about this subject, some of it is accurate, some of it is just plain wrong, and much of it is much more complicated than it needs to be. I like to think of myself as Simple Simon. I find the easiest, yet most effective way to do things, and they work.

Let’s assume that the area where you are planning your bed is now planted in grass. How do you get rid of the grass? Chemicals or no chemicals? Chemicals are easy, so we’ll look at the chemical method first.

My favorite chemical for killing grass and weeds is RoundUp, and used properly it is effective. Rule number one: Read the label on the package, and mix the chemical exactly as recommended by the manufacturer. Rule number two: Assume that every plant that the RoundUp touches is going to die. It is a non-selective herbicide.

The first thing you need to do is mark out where your planting bed is going to be. Spend some time on this step. If you are landscaping around your house, give careful consideration to what is going to be planted in the bed, and then decide how large each plant is going to be when fully mature.

You can keep plants trimmed to a certain size, but be realistic when you make these estimates. Trust me when I tell you, this is the number one mistake made by Do-it-Yourself landscapers. People are just afraid to make those beds large enough.

Typically, a bed should never be narrower than 42”, and corner beds should be 12’ in diameter. Islands. If you make those little tiny island beds that I see everywhere I am going to come over to your house and snap you with a wet towel! The island bed in your front yard should be 20’ to 40’ long, and a minimum of 12’ in diameter on at least one end.

The easiest way to mark out your planting beds is to buy a can of marking paint at the hardware store. Unlike most spray paint, this only works when the can is inverted, and it is designed specifically for painting lines on the ground. They even have cans that spray chalk instead of paint. I’ve always used the paint, it holds up better if it gets wet.

Once you have the outline of the bed established and marked, mix up some RoundUp and spray all the grass and weeds inside the bed area. Do not put RoundUp in a sprayer that you intend to use for other purposes. You need a sprayer that is dedicated for the use of herbicides. When applying the spray, be very careful not to let the spray drift onto the grass and other plants that you do not want to kill.

To minimize spray drift, adjust the spray nozzle so the spray pattern is narrow and the droplets are larger. A wide, fine spray pattern is sure to drift outside of the intended area. Also keep the pressure in the sprayer quite low. Pump it just enough to deliver the spray. High pressure causes the spray to atomize and drift. Apply just enough spray to wet the foliage. If you have liquid dripping off the blades of grass, you are applying too much. More is not better.

Once sprayed, be careful not to step in the area that has been sprayed. Many a people have had golden footprints across their lawn because they forgot and walked through what had been sprayed.

This is the difficult part, and the part that many people do not get, so pay close attention. The only way that the RoundUp can possibly work is if you leave it alone. Did you get that? Once you apply the RoundUp, don’t do another thing with that bed for 72 hours. That’s three very long days. I know you’re anxious, but this is the price you pay for not planning ahead.

RoundUp is a systemic herbicide, which means that it has to be absorbed by the plant, then translocated throughout the plant. It takes three days for that to happen. If you go digging and chopping, you might just as well skip the spraying step. Go build a compost bin while you’re waiting.

After three days the weeds and grass are going to look as healthy and happy as ever. Don’t let ‘em fool ya. They’re as dead as dead can be. Providing the RoundUp didn’t get washed off by rain within the first 24 hours of the waiting period. Now you can dig and chop to your heart’s content.

However, the only digging that I do is to go around the edge of the bed and strip the sod back about 15”. Just peel off about 1” and flip it into the center of the bed. This makes it easier to edge and mulch the bed if you get the sod out of the way. Now for the non- chemical method.

Mark out the outline of the bed as described above. Strip the sod back 15”, just like above. Since you aren’t using any herbicides I would dig down about 1-1/2” when removing the sod from the edges. Take the sod you stripped back and lay it in the center of the bed upside down and pack it down firmly. Now take newspaper or brown paper grocery bags and cover the entire bed area. Use 9 layers of newspaper. No matter what method you used, chemical or non chemical, you are now ready to fill the planting bed with topsoil.

Put 8 to 12” of good rich topsoil in the bed. Make sure the soil is higher in the back, closest to the wall, so the water drains away from the building. If you are creating an island planting make the center of the bed the highest point. Make sure the topsoil you buy is well drained and rich in organic matter. Buying topsoil is a tricky game, you’ve got to be careful and shop around. Topsoil is one item that you do not want to order over the phone, sight unseen.

This is what you are looking for when buying topsoil:

Topsoil that is rich in organic matter will be very dark in color. If the soil is light in color it is probably just fill sand. The other thing you’ve got to watch for is how well drained the soil is. Topsoil that has a clay base is poorly drained and sticky, and your plants will not be happy at all. They might even die if they are too wet. Once a clay based topsoil dries out it gets very hard.

Today most topsoil is run through a screener to remove the clumps, rocks, roots, and sticks. There is nothing wrong with buying unscreened topsoil, especially if you’ve visually inspected it and have found it to be of good quality. Actually, really good topsoil shouldn’t have to be screened, but there is little of that quality topsoil to be had.

When you visit the yard where the soil is stockpiled, scoop up a handful of the topsoil and run it through your fingers. If it seems to be grainy, it is probably good soil. But if it appears to be tiny round balls that can be smashed between your fingers, it is probably a clay based soil that will trap water during rainy seasons, and get as hard as a rock when it’s hot and dry.

Pay attention to how the soil is screened. Some machines just shake the soil over a set of screens to separate the debris, and others actually shred the soil. If the soil needs to be shredded, you don’t want it. Look closely at the pile that the raw soil is coming from. If the soil in the raw pile is as hard as a rock, that’s what the screened soil is going be once you get it in your beds. If it appears to be fairly loose, it’s probably good soil.

Put 6-8” of topsoil in your beds. You are now ready to plant. Did you notice that I didn’t get into rototilling and all kinds of extra work? Nor did I suggest that you add bone meal or any of those other goodies that the garden centers sell. I skipped the part about checking the pH too. pH is important, but I’ve found that good topsoil almost always has a suitable pH.

I’ve got a confession to make. In almost 30 years of growing, planting, landscaping and the like, I’ve never tested the pH of the soil on any project that I was working on. Is that smart? I don’t know, but I’ve been successful in my efforts, and I have landscaped several hundred homes and grown tens of thousands of plants.

It’s something to think about. What I’m really trying to say is don’t get caught up in too many details, and be careful who you take advice from at those garden stores. Many of those sales people were flipping burgers last week.

You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm.

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter.  Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

Let’s face it: Our houseplants aren’t the most important things on our to-do lists, and even the most attentive gardeners will sometimes forget to water the hanging baskets. The good news is that unless the plants are completely dead, they can usually be revived.

Begin by clipping off dead flowers and browning leaves. See! It looks better already. Now cut back yellowing stems and stems with a good many yellowing leaves to encourage the plant to send out new shoots. If your plant has trailing stems, you may have to detangle the stems first to determine which are worth keeping.

If you’re like me, you may find it hard to clip off buds that will be opening soon, so use your own judgment to determine if this is necessary. A plant with a lot of damage will have more trouble recovering if it’s trying to support buds during the recovery period, and the buds may eventually fall off without opening anyway. If the damage is mild, leave the buds that are on undamaged stems in place.

Watering a dried out basket can be difficult. You may find that as you pour water into the basket it simply runs out without wetting the soil. The best way to overcome this is to run a pan of tepid water, and add a drop or two of dishwashing liquid. The dishwashing liquid acts as a wetting agent and allows the water to soak into the soil. Set your plant inside the pan of water and leave it for at least an hour, or until the basket is saturated, and mist the plants a time or two while they soak. If there are heavy chains or ropes attached to your basket, support them with a stick so that they don’t lay on top of your plants. When the plants are dry, it doesn’t take much weight to break the stems and leaves.

At this point we want to do everything we can to help our plants get back on their feet, but it’s best to avoid feeding them for about five days. This gives them time to overcome the shock before trying to send out new shoots.

Watch your recovering plants closely for signs of insects or disease. In their weakened state, they are more susceptible to pests and fungus, and they should be treated right away if you suspect a problem. Before you know it, your basket will be bursting with blooms again.

Jackie Carroll is the editor or GardenGuides.com, a leading internet destination for gardeners, and GardenGuidesKids.com. http://www.gardenguides.com http://www.gardenguideskids.com

For the cost of a packet of seeds, you can quickly create a show stopping garden accent or a living hideaway for children, hide a rusty chain link fence or an unsightly garage wall, and turn an ordinary balcony into a private garden. Started from seeds, annual vines will scramble to heights of 20 feet or more, highlighting features you want to show off and covering eyesores.

Here are just a few of the many uses for annual vines:

- Add a little magic to your garden by planting a trellis or pole with brightly colored morning glories and moonflowers. You’ll have a burst of brightly colored flowers during the day, and luminescent white blossoms at night.

- Add shade and privacy to your balcony with annual vines. Because their root systems are limited, they can be grown in large planters on a trellis, or allowed to trail from window boxes and big hanging baskets. The vertical growing habit will make a small area seem larger.

- Annual vines are ideal for introducing your children to the magic of gardening. Build a teepee of bamboo or fallen tree branches, and plant with scarlet runner beans or tall nasturtiums. Your children will enjoy their colorful (and edible) hideaway while learning about the wonders of nature.

- Plant climbing vines along chain link fences and light poles to soften the look of your landscape.

- Annual vines will quickly blanket a problem slope or other area that is difficult to mow with colorful flowers. If your slope is difficult to plant, use a vine that will reseed itself such as morning glories or cardinal climbers.

- Plant vines along a southern wall to keep the house cooler in summer.

Annual vines are easy to grow. They like a sunny location with good quality, well drained soil. Plant your seeds according to the package directions, and keep them evenly moist until they germinate. After germination, you’ll only need to water when the weather has been extremely hot or dry. Use fertilizers sparingly. An abundance of nitrogen will encourage your vines to produce an abundance of dark green foliage and few flowers.

Have your trellises or other support in place when you plant your seeds. If you can’t plant right next to the support, insert twigs into the soil next to the seeds to lead the vines to their intended support. If the vine can’t find its support right away, it will waste time searching and reaching for something to grab on to.

Recommended Annual Vines

Black Eyed Susan Vine Unlike many climbing vines, this one isn’t invasive so it can be incorporated into existing gardens without fear of crowding out existing plants. It’s a great choice for hanging baskets and window boxes. Height: 5′ to 10′ trailing vine

Cardinal Climber Vine The deep red flowers with white or yellow throats are sure to draw attention to your trellises, fences and poles. Height: 6′ to 20′ vine

Cypress Vine This vine can add a tropical texture to your landscape with its interesting foliage and mix of bright red, pink and white flowers. With the right conditions, it grows to 20 feet. Height: 8′ to 10′ vine

Hyacinth Bean Vine This striking vine will have your visitors asking if it’s real! The flowers are followed by velvety purple bean pods. Height: 6′ - 20′ vine

Mina Lobata ‘Firecracker Vine’ or ‘Exotic Love,’ this unusual, exciting, interesting annual vine has up to 12 beautiful 2" tubular flowers on each spike. Performs well on trellises and in hanging baskets. This is one of the few annual vines that will tolerate a little shade. Height: 6′ to 10′

Moonflower Plant this fast-growing vine on a porch, near an entrance, or under a window where you can enjoy the evening performance and heady fragrance. The flowers bloom only at night, and unfold in 2-3 minutes, and event worth waiting for! Height: 10′ to 20′ vine

Morning Glories In the summer, flowers open in the morning, and in the fall they stay open all day. Morning glories are grown as a groundcover in difficult areas. Height: 8′ - 10′ vine

Jackie Carroll is the editor of GardenGuides.com, where you’ll find seeds for all of the vines mentioned in this article, and GardenGuidesKids.com. http://www.gardenguides.com http://www.gardenguideskids.com

Don’t let the delicate appearance fool you! These little gems are hardy enough to grow outdoors in zones 6-10 without winter protection, and with a good cover of mulch they will survive winters as far north as zone 4. Miniature roses are surprisingly easy to grow, and they look great as edgings for your beds or borders, accent plants for rock gardens, and as houseplants.

Miniature roses range in size from the micro-minis which grow to about five inches, up to a height four feet or more. The flowers are from 1/2 inch to two inches in diameter, and the range of colors is similar to that of full-sized roses. Most types will bloom from spring until frost. Unfortunately, miniature roses have little or no fragrance.

When grown indoors as pot plants, miniature roses need a little special care. Even when grown in the sunniest window, they will usually need supplemental light. You will know your rose isn’t getting enough light when the stems seem to stretch out leaving wide spaces between the leaves.

Miniature roses also need lots of humidity if kept indoors. Set your pot in a tray of pebbles and water. The pebbles will support the pot above the water level so the soil doesn’t become waterlogged. As it evaporates, the water will provide the plant with extra humidity. If you house is very dry, run a cool-mist vaporizer now and then.

Spider mites and whiteflies are drawn to indoor miniature roses. To reduce the chances of these pests attacking your plants, give them a weekly shower. Take care to thoroughly rinse both the tops and the undersides of the leaves. To treat whiteflies, use an insecticidal soap at five day intervals or spray with a solution of four parts water to three parts rubbing alcohol — add a squirt of dish soap for good measure — and keep the plant out of the light until the alcohol dries completely.

Soap spray and alcohol spray also work for spider mites, and you might also try buttermilk spray: mix 1/2 cup buttermilk with 4 cups wheat flour to 5 gallons of water. Quarantine infested plants until you are sure that the insects are irradiated. In extreme cases, you can strip the leaves off the plant and cut it back by half. Don’t worry, you won’t kill it, and you’ll soon see signs of new growth.

For the best blooms, use a fertilizer that is high in potassium. The last number in the N-P-K ratio indicates the amount of potassium, and an N-P-K ratio of 5-5-10 is a good choice. Mix the fertilizer to about 1/4 strength and use it once a week.

After your roses spend a season indoors, it’s best to plant them outdoors and get new, disease and pest-free plants to use indoors. They can be planted directly in the garden or kept in containers, but remember that outdoor plants in small containers can dry out quickly. Harden them off before placing them outdoors permanently.

Jackie Carroll is the editor of GardenGuides.com, a leading internet destination for gardeners, and GardenGuidesKids.com. http://www.gardenguides.com http://www.gardenguideskids.com

This does not have much to do with casting concrete in molds or forms, but it is interesting. I wondered just how long concrete had been around after reading an article that claims that the pyramids are made of concrete blocks. http://www.geopolymer.org/science_archaeology/pyramids_egypt/index.html - if you want to see it. It looked interesting so I looked up Roman concrete.

They where known to be using concrete and molds 2000 years ago. The cement part was the same as today. The difference was the way it was obtained. Modern cement is made from limestone in cement plants. It is crushed and ground to a fine powder, and cooked at very high temperatures. In Roman times they used volcanic ash (composed of silica and some aluminum and iron oxide) and lime.

This was mixed with sand in as dry a mix as possible on site and placed over layers of rock that had been pre set. Then they pounded the concrete mix into the rocks until the spaces between the rocks where filled with the mix. Then another layer of rocks, more concrete mix, etc. Until the thickness that was wanted was reached. It was a good system, the Pantheon is still there in Rome along with a lot of other buildings made this way over 2000 years ago.

Around 1980 or so this method was "rediscovered" and is often used now. With modern equipment such as mobile vibrators and vibratory rollers it is used to make Dams, airport runways, and in other places where strong concrete is needed. This is stronger than poured concrete because there are less voids. Voids cause weakness. It is also cheaper because no rebar is used. some say it is environmentally friendly, -less steel, less water and runoff, and less cement. In modern poured concrete the voids are compensated for with rebar. The romans did not have steel, and their concert didn’t need it!

Some of their buildings used clay bricks in the concrete and some had bronze where we would have rebar. This was not a common practice, but was used on roofs and arches.

I wonder if some off our modern buildings will be around in 2000 years? Probably not. The Pantheon will be 4000 years old then, but probably be starting to show its age.

For more on this search for "roller compacted concrete". Here is a link to a dam in CA. http://www.cncpc.org/pages/media.html Those of you that live downstream from a dam may be particularly interested.

copyright 2005 Delmar Germyn http://www.delsmolds.com

Author - Del Germyn Web site http://www.delsmolds.com

My web site is setup to help you and I learn more about molds and casting in general.

YOU WILL FIND….

Articles on how to mix your concrete, hypertufa, etc for different uses.

Free information on how to make your own molds. Tips and hints on their use and care.

Free information on making and using various types of molds to cast concrete, plaster, cement, ceramics, and molding with hypertufa.

Suggestions for projects that you can do in a couple of hours that will make your yard / garden look great.

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