Choosing a Pond or Fountain Light: LED or Halogen?

Basically, there are two kinds of lights available for ponds, halogen lights (which have been around for quite a while), and LED, which are more recent developments. Here are some differences between the two. Note that here we are addressing 12volt systems only.

Some advantages of LED:

Focused light
Solidly built and hard to break, durable
Last twice as long as best fluorescent bulbs and 20 times longer than incandescent bulbs LEDs also are more efficient per watt, produce greater lumens per watt than incandescents or halogen bulbs. LEDs can be built in a number of colors so do not require a filter, which greatly reduces efficiency of light. Finally, LEDs run cooler and are less likely to warm the pond or for their seals to get damaged because of the cooler running temperatures.

Some Disadvantages:

LED lights are still quite expensive and it is taking a while for the price to drop. Also, it is difficult to find an LED system that produces high wattage. Fountain Tech produces the highest pond light wattage we know of at 8 watts per light fixture. And a total of 130 separate LEDs are used in the fixture to do this!

Halogen:

Some Advantages

These are good lights, not as durable as LEDs but pretty durable all in all. The most common sizes are 10 watt, 20 watt, 35 and 50, though you can also find 75 watt lights. You can usually buy lens covers to change the color of the light, though lens filters do reduce the luminosity a great deal. In general, it is more efficient to use colored bulbs. Still, you will find less light from a colored bulb than a clear one. LED is the way to keep luminosity efficient when using colored light. You can find a good selection of both at Cheap Pumps. Some Disadvantages:

These light bulbs don’t last nearly as long as LEDs, though they still last a long time. They burn quite hot and sometimes the high temperatures burn the O-rings and the fixtures leak.

About transformers:

Transformers that will be used outside (as almost all will!) really need a 3-prong plug. Beware of the “for indoor use only” transformer as, in order to find an indoor plug and then run the cable to your fixture outdoors these are often more trouble than the price savings is worth. Find a UL-approved transformer that can be used in or out of doors. That’s our recommendation.

Michael Guista is president of Fountain Mountain and has published two books. You can see some of his company’s products at http://www.fountainmountain.com

There are times that we can never curb the forces of nature. This just goes to show that nature is, indeed, powerful and can destroy anything and everything. So, the only way we can do is to provide protection from the raging effects of nature.

One way to do this is through waterproofing. It has been a great technique in preventing the penetration of water to any material.

Whenever you waterproof a material, you apply a certain waterproof matter that is designed to provide utmost protection against the imminent effect of water. This, in turn, serves as a wall between the material and water.

There are many types of waterproofing. One of them is canvas waterproofing. This method is used particularly on materials made of canvas.

In most instances, the typical type of cotton canvas is already a waterproof material. Therefore, it does not need any waterproofing. Its fibers puff up whenever they are exposed to water, thus, it closes the knits of the canvas.

However, because of the canvas’ vulnerability to mildew and “bird droppings,” it is still subjected to canvas waterproofing. This is because canvas waterproofing does not only protect the canvas from water alone but also from other substance that can cause damage on the item.

So, for those who want to know canvas waterproofing, here are some pointers you need to know:

1. Do not use silicone-based canvas waterproofing.

Never attempt to use silicone-based canvas waterproofing on acrylic canvas. Silicone is clashing to the original application.

Normally, acrylic canvas primarily contains a canvas waterproofing chemical known as fluorocarbon, which in turn, repels the silicone material when applied. If this happens, it will result into an erratic treatment. Silicon can also eliminate the “stain-resistance” substance in the acrylic canvas.

2. Use a product with fluoropolymer.

When doing a canvas waterproofing, it is best that you use a fluoropolymer-based substance. This type of canvas waterproofing is compatible with the acrylic canvas. Hence, it will result into a more durable and sturdy acrylic canvas.

3. Use a waterproof material that contains petroleum.

Petroleum-based material has long been proven to be effective when doing a canvas waterproofing. It is very compatible with acrylic canvas. Petroleum-based substances work best in canvas waterproofing than those substances that are water-based.

The best way to identify a petroleum-based substance to be used in canvas waterproofing is to through its pungent smell.

4. When performing a canvas waterproofing, do it outdoors.

It is best that you do canvas waterproofing outside the house because of the substance’s very strong odor. You might get suffocated once you do it inside the house. Therefore, it is best that you do canvas waterproofing where there is proper ventilation.

Besides, these strong substances used in canvas waterproofing can also damage your furniture made of plastics. So, it is a must that you take extra care when doing canvas waterproofing.

5. Use protective covers for sensitive furniture.

If you will do a canvas waterproofing on a canvas dodger, it is best that you protect your plastic furniture first before you start with the process. You can do this by placing foil over the plastic materials.

6. Do a spot test first.

It is best that before you start the process, do a spot test first. This is to know whether the substance used in canvas waterproofing will not discolour your canvas or cause further damage.

7. Remove the canvas from the boat.

It is best that before you start waterproofing, you should first remove the canvas from the boat. This is to ensure that the hard surfaces will not slick. Also, there are waterproofing substances that can cause a damaging reaction against gelcoat.

However, if you find this tedious and very unworkable, try to protect all areas vulnerable to “overspray” instead.

8. Let it dry first.

After waterproofing, let the canvas dry first before reinstalling it. In this manner, the pungent smell will soon be eliminated.

However, experts strongly suggest that after the canvas has been dried, it would be better to apply a second dose of waterproofing. This is to ensure durability on the material. It is still safe to do this and will not affect the fabric’s overall condition.

9. Reapply when necessary.

Repeat the process whenever the canvas is exposed in callous condition. Though, experts say that after doing a waterproofing, the protection is guaranteed for one year at the least.

So, now that you know how to do canvas waterproofing, you can be assured that your canvas will always stay in top condition. As they say, it is better to prevent damage than to cure it.

For more great waterproofing info and advice check out: http://www.waterproofingadvisor.com

For years you have dreamed of a quiet place to rest and meditate. A place that is beautiful and calm, where you hear the soothing sounds of fish gliding to and fro in the water. You have finally built the fish pond of your dreams and now you need a fish pond bridge.

When choosing fish pond bridges you will need to make sure the size is appropriate for the pond. Fish pond bridges need to be long enough to span the pond but they do not need to be much longer than the pond.

If you built the pond yourself and plan to build the fish pond bridge also, make sure you have all the materials you need. There are many places to find fish pond bridges information and kits. A really good place to start is online. Check out the sites that feature landscaping bridges.

You will discover that there are all kinds of choices when it comes to fish pond bridges. There are many styles and fish pond bridges can be made from cedar, pine or redwood. There are also fish pond bridges that are made from galvanized materials.

Many fish pond bridges come in kits that even the beginner will be able to put together. Some of these fish pond bridges do not require footings or foundations. They can be bolted together for easy installation.

You will be able to find fish pond bridges in varied price ranges. If you want to pay less, check out several online sites and compare prices. Take shipping costs into consideration too, because some companies offer free shipping.

Put a fish pond bridge over your untroubled waters!

We have a large number of styles and varieties of fish pond and garden bridges available online. For more information visit: http://small-garden-bridges.partnersinsuccess.net/

Things to Consider

A great deal about fountains has changed over the last decade. Now there are really high class ones made of copper, bronze, concrete, and stone, and some fairly nice ones made of resin and fiberglass. There are several things to consider, though. As a pump wholesaler, I speak with fountain owners all the time and also look at lots of samples of fountains at trade shows and in magazines. Before purchasing a fountain, there are quite a few questions to ask. What looks good in a store might not look good at your home or business. Or it might look good for the first month or year but then you’ll get tired of it. Fountains are usually around for a long time; in fact, concrete and stone ones last centuries and are hard to remove once they’re installed. Here are things to consider.

Bronze Fountains

These are at the high end of fountains, and can retail for ten to twenty thousand dollars. They are plain classy. But will one of these fit in where you want to put it? Do you have the right yard or business or location for such a classic kind of display? Also, do you like the aging process (the verdigris patina) that bronze undergoes. Can you afford one of these? If you answered yes to these questions, a bronze fountain might be right for you. It will last your lifetime, your kids’ lifetimes, their kids’ lifetimes, etc. And they are durable enough to be moved from house to house.

Copper Fountains

Like bronze fountains, these too tend to be classy, especially the name brand ones like Water Wonders, which mix copper with glass and slate. These make especially nice wall fountains. We have been selling Water Wonders fountains for several years at Fountain Mountain. There are certain things to think about, though. Are you locating the fountain in a room with good acoustics? Some rooms make the pump noise really echo, especially small rooms with walls that are close together. Do you know someone or can you hire an electrician to hide the cord in the wall? These fountains are a bit too expensive to buy if you’re going to let the cord run outside the wall for everyone to see. Finally, it is a good idea to go listen to them run at a store before purchasing. Some of them make little water noise and some make a lot. To increase water sound you might have to turn up the pump to the point of there being slight splash. But if you are careful and go to a store with Water Wonders or other copper fountains on display before purchasing, and are happy with what you see and hear, these are great fountains.

Concrete Fountains

These still provide the most bang for the buck, primarily because concrete is so inexpensive. In fact, a huge part of the cost of concrete fountains is in transporting them to stores for sale and in the labor of painting them. The concrete itself is the least expensive part of the fountains’ manufacture. There are some differences in how they are made, though. Some companies, like Brandelli’s, use a “light” mix: their fountains are not nearly as heavy as those produced by, say, Avila’s. Also, some companies like Brandelli’s, use a stain over concrete, whereas others, like Avila’s or Lomelli’s, use paints (usually more than one at a time) or stains. Also, most concrete companies (though not all) reinforce their fountains with steel. This makes them strong but also means the concrete must be sealed. If not painted (as most fountains from Mexico are not), then they do need to have a clear sealant put on them. Otherwise the water will seep through to the steel, which will rust. Eventually, the fountain is likely to crack. One final word of advice on concrete, beware of “cute.” Cute fountains (mama dogs with baby dogs, boys peeing) sometimes don’t look so cute over time. Ask yourself if you’ll still think the fountain is cute years later. Remember, concrete fountains can last hundreds of years. And they are difficult to move so pick something that will stay put. The traditional Italian 3-tier fountain is always a safe bet.

Resin and Fiberglass Fountains

The quality of these has gotten a lot better, and they have the clear advantage of being more easily handled than concrete ones. Some do look like concrete and stone, though they tend to look much more realistic at first glance than they do after a week has passed. Then it is pretty clear that they are faux. These are also a lot easier on employees who work in tores, as they don’t have to worry as much about their backs. We would sell these at our store but just don’t like their looks as well as the real thing.

Stone Fountains

These look incredibly good or mediocre. The handcrafted stone fountains out of Mexico and many of the large ones out of China are beautiful. But there are also mass-produced stone fountains, which use crushed stone mixed with resin. These just don’t look like real stone to us even though they are.

Making Your Own Water Fountain

There are lots of ways to make your own fountains. The easiest way, perhaps, is to place a pump in a small tub or on some liner. Then place a wire or plastic grate on top of the tub or the liner, and layer pebbles, rocks, etc. over the wire or plastic grate. Your pump and plumbing will be hidden! No one will no where your water is coming from. You can then connect black PVC piping to the pump (black sprinkler pipe is incredibly inexpensive yet professional looking) and let the water rise up seemingly out of rocks in your yard. You won’t have to worry much about pets as the water source is covered with stones. Likewise, you won’t have to worry about kids drowning. You can also build a little waterfall over such a pit if you want, just throwing in boulders to hide your electric and tubing, etc. Some people use bamboo for spouts. You can also drill holes through slate (we’ve found it’s really easy if you soak the slate for a day first). Slate is so porous, however, you ought to seal it once you’re done drilling. You can also find rocks in nature that already have holes in them.

How Big of a Pump do I need?

Basically, if you buy a fountain at a store you should have instructions on the best size pump for that particular piece of garden art. If you are making your own fountain, here is a rule of thumb: for every inch of width you need to pump 100 gallons per hour. But note that a100 gallon per hour pump is not pumping the same volume at one foot head (elevation above the pump), two feet head, three feet, and so forth. If you are making your own fountain, it is likely you will have to guess which size to buy, and you might be wrong the first time you build one. Most pumps are adjustable but often can be adjusted down only a bit. However, magnetic-driven pumps, the most common kind, are inexpensive and durable. You can find them online at many wholesale pumps outlets.

Mike Guista is president of Fountain Mountain, Inc. and has published two books (Houghton Mifflin and Fountain Mountain Press). For more information about Water Wonders or buying wholesale pumps don’t hesitate to contact us.

It seems that there are always questions this time of year about winterizing plastic ponds. To begin with, clean out all the gunk (composed of fish and plant waste) at the bottom of the pond. Specialist garden catalogues have a little gizmo that attaches to a hose and when the hose is run, the gizmo acts like a vacuum cleaner, sucking debris from the bottom of the pond. Or, more simply move your pond pump to the pond bottom and direct the output to the ground and not the filter. If you don’t remove the plant debris, it will continue to decompose. Decomposition uses oxygen as one of its primary fuels and this means that oxygen will be taken from the water to fuel plant decomposition. If there is an ice-layer over the pond, and there will be shortly, the water will not be able to replace that oxygen and the pond will go into an anaerobic (without oxygen) state under the ice.

Now, you’ve never quite smelled something until you’ve taken a whiff of a pond that’s in that state. It is basically your very own backyard sewage system. Aside from getting rid of the smell, the reason you remove the bottom layers of material is so any fish you’re leaving in the pond will have enough oxygen to survive the winter. And survive they will as long as you stop feeding them when the water gets cold – the water (at less than 50F) is really too cold for them to feed and any food will simply rot. The fish will survive as long as the water doesn’t freeze solidly to the bottom of the pond. If the pond is three to four feet deep, it will not freeze and your fish will be fine. Shallower ponds will either have to have a bubbler, a pump left running to keep an open area open or the fish removed to an aquarium for the winter.

But start with removing the gunk.

Doug Green, an award winning garden author, gardens and answers questions in his free gardening newsletter at http://www.water-gardens-information.com

Having a beautiful and thriving yard isn’t an act of chance. Before you go shopping for trees, flowers, plants and shrubs, you should understand that half of them are meant to be underground. The root systems of your future plants and trees will decide if they live or die, and their future health is determined by the environment you will be planting them in. So, before you bring home a truck load of things to plant, you should take a good look at the soil and drainage conditions on your property to see if there is any room for improvement.

Soil is the foundation of plant life. Soil serves multiple purposes. It holds the structure upright, and it is also the source of food, water and air that roots need to live. To determine if your soil is healthy, and to learn what type of soil you have, you should squeeze it between your hands. If the soil forms a tight lump and keeps its shape, it is mainly composed of clay. If the soil does not create any shape, the soil is mostly sand. You are wanting soil to take a shape, then fall apart when the pressure is released. This is loam soil. Loam soil is a mixture of organic matter, plus large and small soil particles.

Clay soil will hold water very well. Clay soil holds water so well that it can kill. Clay soil is very dense. Air does not circulate properly in clay for plants and trees to grow well. Alternatively, sandy soil has an abundance of air circulation, however it will not hold water very well. Even if your soil experiment points to loam soil, you should take a sample to a lab to be tested. This soil sample will give you much insight on what you can do to enrich the growing soil in your flower beds and yard.

Soil testing will tell you about the pH, nutrient and organic levels in your soil. Most problems are easily rectified by adding an additive to the soil. Your soil may also benefit by having a conditioner such as manure, peat moss or sand added in to give it a better consistency. While this may seem time consuming, it is well worth it and the benefits of the labor can last for years.

Once you have your soil in proper condition, you will need to think about water. Most plants prefer soil that is evenly moist. This means that while the surface may be dry, it is generally moist underground. If you live in an area that is subject to droughts, you should only purchase trees, shrubs and other plant life that thrive in these growing conditions. However, even these plants should not be forgotten, and they will not appreciate being left to bake in the sun without a drink. You should consider installing an irrigation system for them.

Irrigation systems work well for most all growing regions. Irrigation systems help newly planted trees and shrubs get water while they still have immature root systems. Irrigation systems assure that your plants and trees are being watered at the roots, where it is most beneficial. Irrigation systems are also a great way to conserve water, as it is not wasted.

Next, do you have an area on your property that is prone to stand in water after a heavy rain? If so, your property may have poor drainage. Areas that stand in water generally tend to have soil which has a high clay content, as well. You can improve this matter by adding sand, or other organic matter, to the soil.

Standing water could be a result of a dip in the area, or shallow soil. If soil is shallow, roots are not allowed to properly extend downward and anchor. This would keep water from draining properly. The best thing you can do for dips or shallow soil is to install drainage tiles for a mature yard, and to plant new trees, bushes and plants in raised beds in these areas.

Now that you have learned about your soil, thought about a watering system and inspected your property for shallow soil or dips, you are ready to go to the plant nursery. Remember that all plants and trees have their own niche that they prefer to live in. Don’t buy plants which like shade if your yard does not provide any. Likewise, if you have an abundantly shady yard, don’t choose plants which need full sun. By being choosy about which plants and trees you purchase–and being mindful of their particular needs, you will most assuredly have a thriving and bountiful yard for years to come.

Author Ian White specializes in helping people who are interested in finding a house sitter in their town. To find out about these services, visit http://www.housecarers.com today. This is a free service for garden lovers. Find other keen gardeners to care for your home, gardens, and pets while you are away.

One of the fastest growing sectors of water feature installation is the pondless waterfall. It is easy to understand why so many potential pond builders are opting to build a pondless water feature instead of the traditional pond. From the safety of not having a pond to the ease of maintenance to the cost and ease of installation, pondless waterfalls are often the obvious choice for the would-be pond builder.

As the father of six young children, I am always concerned for the safety of them and their friends. A traditional pond is a hazardous place for small children. Their curiosity will draw them to it. The most obvious hazard is, of course, drowning. Most ponds are not too deep, but they generally have rocks that could easily render a child unconscious if the child were to slip and fall. Ponds normally do not have the cleanest of water making infections another concern. The skimmer and pump are beacons that must be played with by small children and could pose various obvious threats on their own. Pondless waterfalls are safer than standard ponds.

Pondless waterfalls are far easier to maintain. There is no pond; therefore there are no fish to keep. No pond to keep wild (or even domestic) critters out of. The only real maintenance is to occasionally clean the filter so the pump does not have to work too hard, and add water occasionally to compensate for evaporation. One of the benefits of not having a pond with fish is that the pump does not need to run constantly to provide aeration. It could be placed on a switch or timer to be used only when needed. The pump will therefore last much longer and cost less to use than it would in a traditional pond application. Pondless waterfalls are easier to maintain than traditional ponds.

Ease of installation makes the pondless waterfall the ideal water feature for the DIY builder that may not have the desire or time to build a complete pond. The waterfall filter must be placed and the pit must be dug. Design considerations are not as important on the pit as they would be with a pond although the waterfall/stream portion would be basically the same. Line the pit and waterfall to prevent water from seeping into the ground. Place the filter apparatus with the pump in the pit and cover with rocks. Regular ponds require planning of shape for water flow to avoid stagnant areas and also for aesthetic reasons. The skimmer needs to be placed at the surface of the pond, making it a possible eye-sore that must be dealt with. Pondless waterfalls require less effort to install than do ponds.

The joy of the pondless waterfall is that it gives the sound and beauty of a waterfall without the many problems associated with the pond. As this option is becoming more common, more watergarden companies are producing kits to create these beautiful water features.

Jon Loewy is the Owner of Pondless Waterfall, a water feature store that specializes in pondless waterfall supplies, kits, and installation.

Pond Pump and Fountain supplies pond kits and pond accessories.

Most pool supply distributors can offer an astounding selection of algaecides and clarifiers for your swimming pool, and if you do not understand how they work, or what their uses are, it can be difficult to make the right choice.

Pool algaecide should be added to your swimming pool on a daily basis if you regularly experience problems with algae growing in your pool. If you have not ever had an algae problem in your swimming pool, there is no need for the algaecide pool chemical. Local pool stores and less honest pool supply dealers will sell an algaecide chemical to treat an existing algae growth. Once algae has grown in your swimming pool, the only pool chemical that will kill it is pool shock. Algaecide is only a preventative measure, and will do nothing to treat an existing problem.

Pool algaecide is either a copper based formula, or what is commonly referred to as a “quat” or “polyquat” algaecide. Copper based algaecides use copper to treat and prevent algae growth, and can be used against all types of algae. Copper algaecides will not cause foam in a swimming pool, which can be a problem when using “quat” algaecides. Although they are effective against many forms of algae, copper algaecides can cause stains on the surface of a swimming pool if the product is not used properly. Copper algaecides cannot be used in a swimming pool on a biguanide based sanitizing system (such as Baquacil or SoftSwim).

The “quat” or “polyquat” algaecides are quaternary ammonium compounds, which treat and prevent algae growth in a different way. These algaecides are safer to use than a copper based algaecide because they will not stain a swimming pool. If you have experienced any pool stains caused by metals in the past, you should use a quat or polyquat algaecide to treat your swimming pool. Although quats cannot cause staining, these algaecides may cause foaming if not used properly. Polyquat pool algaecides cannot cause staining or foaming, and are typically more expensive than the other forms of algaecides.

When pool water becomes dull or cloudy, and is not cleared by 12-24 hours of filtration, a pool clarifier chemical may be necessary to help the pool filter improve water conditions. If all chemical levels are properly balanced, the source of the problem is most likely fine debris suspended in the swimming pool water. Dust or debris particles are sometimes too small for the pool filter to remove from the pool water, and may pass directly through the pool filter. A sand filter provides the least efficient filtering of pool water, and this problem is more likely to occur when using a sand pool filter. A pool clarifier chemical will group together very fine particles of debris into larger bunches, which can be more easily trapped by the pool filter. Most pool clarifier chemicals cannot be used in a swimming pool with a D.E. (diatomaceous earth) filter.

Please visit In The Swim Discount Pool Supplies for a complete selection of quality pool supplies, including algaecide and pool clarifier.

Building a waterfall is easier than you think and will add a new dimension to your pool.

When building a waterfall, as with any garden project, you must first consider the design and make a plan. The biggest mistake that people make when planning a pond waterfall is to err on the large side. For a pond measuring 12 ft x 14 ft you should think in terms of a fall of 18-24 inches. The width of the waterfall should be in proportion to the size of your pond. The important point is to make sure that the scale of your construction fits in with the surrounding features and does not spoil the balance of your overall garden design.

The next question that has to be answered is the type of construction you wish to use. There are two basic choices. You can either use a liner and place rocks to form the fall or you can save yourself the trouble and buy a fibreglass unit. Either way you will still have to use your shovel to form the site of the waterfall.

The other requirement is a pump which will be sited in the pool to transport the water to the top of your waterfall. The size of pump that you will need depends on the height and width of the waterfall and also the length of pipe from the pump to the top of the fall. Once you have finalised your plans, consult your dealer and he will be able to supply you with the correct pump.

To maintain a healthy pond environment with crystal clear water usually involves installing a biological filter. Again your dealer will be able to advise you as to the correct type and size. The filter should be placed at the top of the waterfall so that the water is cleaned before issuing out on to the fall.

Once you have assembled all the equipment it is time to get out your shovel. If your site is level and the soil from excavation of your pond is nearby this can be used as the mound on which to place the waterfall. If you are using a liner you first dig out the channel and then fit the liner. Next place the rocks so that the water can flow over them. It is helpful if you observe a natural waterfall to give you some ideas as to how the rocks can be placed for the greatest effect. Once you are satisfied with the arrangement, use black waterfall foam to seal the rocks to ensure that the water flows over and around them and not underneath. If you have chosen to use a fibreglass preformed model, you will avoid the problem of placing the rocks and will just have to dig out sufficient soil to allow you to fit the unit.

To complete the installation fit the pump, filter and hose and connect to the electricity supply. Providing all is working to your satisfaction, now is the time to relax and enjoy your handiwork.

If you have read this far and are wondering whether it would be just too much like hard work, then consider this. Water soothes and relaxes, inspires reflection, and is a source of beauty. A cascading, bubbling stream adds interest and serenity to the garden, while a waterfall can create a dramatic centerpiece. Building a pond waterfall really is worth the effort.

Hugh Harris-Evans is the owner of The Garden Supplies Advisor where you will find further articles, gardening tips and product reviews.

Low Oxygen levels Kill Fish

Use an oxygen tester and air stones to keep your available
oxygen level to at least 7.0 parts per million of dissolved
oxygen in 90 degree F. water. Koi and goldfish start showing
signs of stress at oxygen levels of 4.0 ppm and will start
dying at 3.0 ppm. The higher the water temperature goes the
less oxygen that’s available. Water temperatures over 90
degrees will also affect fish health so keep the temperature
under control by providing shade during the hottest parts of
the day.

It’s Parasite Season

Warm water causes an increase in parasites such as anchor
worms, fish lice or flukes. Some parasites such as anchor worm
and fish lice are visible and can be treated with Dylox,
Dipterex or Masoten.

Invisible parasites such as external protozoa and flukes can
not be seen but they usually cause symptoms including extra
thick mucus, constant scratching by rubbing against objects,
flashing, or jumping. Some variations will cause a noticeable
head shaking and yawning. COntact your pond specialist for
treatments because different symptoms are indicative of
different infections. Follow label instructions at all times
or you could cause serious injury or death to your fish.

Summer Koi Feeding Tips

If you water is between 70 to 85 F. then feed a low protein
food in a quantity that is equal to 1.0% to 1.5% of total koi
body weight in pond. Estimate total koi body weight in pond
and feed recommended % of food daily based on season and water
temperature divided into intervals of about 2-2-1/2 hours.
Takes koi about 2- 2-1/2 to digest food in warmer water and
4-8 hrs in colder water when feeding is begun. So in warmer
ideal water temperatures feed 5-8 times daily the individual
portions totaling daily amount needed. In cooler temperatures
feed 1-3 times daily.

Sunblock for your Koi

Koi are not immune from sunburn, especially in shallow ponds
that get direct sunlight. Provide shade such as water lilies
or a rock overhang. Even a beach umbrella will do in a pinch.

Watch for Evaporation

Depending upon the surface area of your pond, you can lose
several inches per day to evaporation. Monitor and adjust your
water levels daily or as neccessary. Remember, do not use
water with chlorine in it if you have fish!

Five Quick Tips For Healthy Summertime Water

1. Ensure that you have good mechanical and biological
filtration and that your pump will turn the pond water over
totally at least twice per day.

2. Operate the pump 24 hours a day.

3. Provide adequate shade by having 60 to 70% of the pond’s
surface area covered with floating plants or other types of
shade.

4. Add water clarifiers and bottled bacteria if your water
remains cloudy even when good filtration is present.

5. Test oxygen levels daily and add air stones if levels fall
below 7 PPM.

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Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several
pond-related websites including macarthurwatergardens.com and
pond-filters-online.com. He also publishes a free monthly
newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over
9,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter and
receive a complimentary ‘New Pond Owners Guide’ for joining,
just visit MacArthur Water Gardens by clicking the link above.
<< Specializing in pond filtration and clear water solutions >>
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