Here is a short file on making a horse plaque to hang on your barn. Maybe make two and hang them on each side of the door. If these are going to be outdoors use concrete.

You could cast these in plaster if they will not be outdoors.

To get started you should organize your materials. I always get my cement and sand measured out before I start. First fill your mold with water, then pour the water into a measure of some kind. An empty margarine container is Ok for this. This will give you a rough idea how much concrete to mix.

I would use a 3 sand to 1 cement for this, as it brings out detail nicely.

set your mold up in your sandbox. After you have it settled in nicely carefully take it out and coat the inside with whatever you use for a release agent. When you have coated it put it back in the sandbox.

Now mix your concrete adding water to get a "pancake mix" that will pour out of the container. When you are happy with your mix, pour it into the mold. I fill about ‘half way and wait 5 minutes or so. This lets any air out. Then I fill to the top.

Let it sit about 15 minutes and then put in your hanger. I put a stick under the hanger so it will not sink. You can take it out when the concrete is cured. Once the hanger is in I cover with a cloth and put a piece of plastic over that.

Now comes the hard part! Waiting! Wait at least 24 -36 hours. If it is cold then 48 would not be to long. You cannot rush this part. I have tried! I have a terrible time with this part. I always want to see how it looks. Do not be like me. You will have a huge pile of useless, broken concrete if you look to soon. Believe me, I know!

After you wait, de mold your casting and keep damp for another week. After that you can let it dry and paint it if you want. If you have a big enough container, fill it with water and put the casting in. This is easier than spraying water on it every day. You could also put it in a plastic bag, that will keep it from drying out. Be sure to store in a cool place, not out in the sun where it will get hot.

Copyright © 2005 Delmar Germyn All Rights Reserved.

Author - Del Germyn Web site http://www.delsmolds.com

My web site is setup to help you and I learn more about molds and casting in general.

YOU WILL FIND….

Articles on how to mix your concrete, hypertufa, etc for different uses.

Free information on how to make your own molds. Tips and hints on their use and care.

Free information on making and using various types of molds to cast concrete, plaster, cement, ceramics, and molding with hypertufa.

Suggestions for projects that you can do in a couple of hours that will make your yard / garden look great.

All the information on the site is free to use and share.

Click here to go to my site now. http://www.delsmolds.com

I am hoping that when you see what I have (or have not) set out you will send in your tips and stories.

By sharing we can all learn from each other. We can also help newcomers to the hobby / business.

Lets walk through the process.

1 - Buy or make a mold. 3 or 4 would be better, you will finish quickly and not loose momentum.

2 - Estimate the amount of concrete you will have to mix to fill the mold. I fill the mold with water and pour it into a 2 liter container to do this. You can use sand if your form will not hold water.

3 - Set up your mold so that it will be level and secure when you pour.

4 - Coat the inside of the mold with release agent. This is a trick way of saying oil. I use 10w engine oil. Buy the cheapest you can get. Don’t use to much. If it puddles you may get pitting on the surface of your paver.

5 - Mix your concrete. I would use a 1 - of cement, 2 - of sand, 3 - of 1/2" aggregate mix for this. This is called a 1 2 3 mix, and is the mix most often used for these types of jobs.

Another way would be to buy redi-mixed concrete, but if you need a lot of these that would be expensive.

You should your concrete mix heavy enough that it will just pour. If you have to help it out of the container that is ok. You do not want a pourable mix like you would use for making decorative castings.

6- Dump the concrete into the mold and Wait at least 48 hours. De mold and place in a cool area to cure for another week. Keep the casting damp during this time. At the end of the week the paver can be set out to dry and use.

7 - Start to build your pathway! Brag to your friends about how you made the paving stones yourself!

Copyright © 2005 Delmar Germyn All Rights Reserved.

Author - Del Germyn Web site http://www.delsmolds.com

My web site is setup to help you and I learn more about molds and casting in general.

YOU WILL FIND….

Articles on how to mix your concrete, hypertufa, etc for different uses.

Free information on how to make your own molds. Tips and hints on their use and care.

Free information on making and using various types of molds to cast concrete, plaster, cement, ceramics, and molding with hypertufa.

Suggestions for projects that you can do in a couple of hours that will make your yard / garden look great.

All the information on the site is free to use and share.

Click here to go to my site now. http://www.delsmolds.com

I am hoping that when you see what I have (or have not) set out you will send in your tips and stories.

By sharing we can all learn from each other. We can also help newcomers to the hobby / business.

The site will be constantly added to, so sign up for email updates

The Use Of Color. Color can capture and hold your attention almost more than anything else in your landscape. It also gives landscapes definition and interest and adds another dimension to the landscape. By knowing a few facts about how the human eye relates to color, you can make it work to your advantage in your landscape. A color wheel is helpful to understand the relationship between colors.

1. Red, red-orange and yellow are considered to be warm colors.
2. Green, blue, blue-green, blue-violet, and violet are considered to be cool colors.
3. To the eye, warm colors tend to advance and cool colors tend to recede. If planted side by side at a distance, the warm colors will appear closer and the cool colors further away. You can use these effects to create spatial illusions. Planting cool colored flowers at the rear of your garden will make the yard seem larger, warm colors will make the yard seem smaller.
4. Spot plantings can have similar effects seeming to deepen a part of the yard or bring it closer.
5. Cool colored plants are good for close-up viewing, warm colors are good for dramatic displays.
6. Cool colors can easily be overwhelmed by warm colors.

There are different ways that color can be worked into the landscape. Some of the most common color schemes are as follows:

• Monochromatic: Using flowers of various tints and shades of one color.
• Analogous: Using colors that are closely related to one another on the color wheel.
• Complementary colors: Combine colors that are opposite one another on the color wheel. These can be powerful combinations ? bold, that some people may find vibrant, however, others may feel that these colors clash.

If you want to try and blend strong colors, arrange them so that they intermingle, rather than being clearly defined. You can tone down colors by including silvery leaf or white flower plants. If you mix bright reds with bright yellows, try leading up to the mixture with plants of similar but less intense colors.

• Polychromatic: This includes a mixture of all colors. These combinations often produce a carnival type atmosphere. These are often the result of random plantings. Although it sounds foreboding, these can produce pleasing combinations.

Before planting, take note of your background and surroundings:

• Anything you plant will blend in or stand out against the surrounding vegetation, scenery and buildings.
• Note the colors of your existing house and landscape. Almost any color will look good with white, cream or gray, but it is harder to choose plants that go well with more vivid colors.
• Use colored foliage carefully. Although the plants will have color all season, plants with gold, blue, purple or silver-gray leaves are uncommon in nature and can look like they are out of place.
• Vividly colored plants (purples, reds) may look fake in a rural or informal setting.
• A single plant of a different color may stand out from its surroundings - watch the effect; it may look like a focal point or like something that is out of place. To blend in the plant, try adding different plants of the same color in the area to repeat a theme.
• Variegated plants have leaves that are stripped, rimmed or spotted, generally with white. These plants are either loved or hated. They may have a subtle effect in your landscaping, but because of the foliage it may also look like you have a "sick" plant in your landscape.

Be willing to experiment with color, especially when using annuals. A great way to try mixing colors is by mixing up your plants in container plantings. Containers can be easily moved around and adjusted so you can see the effect that your colors have in your landscape.

Color in a landscape will be the first thing that catches your eye and can also stand out like a sore thumb. By taking some time planning your gardens, your landscape can be the envy of the neighborhood.

Donna Evans is a freelance writer, website designer and landscape designer. She is co-owner of Gizmo Creations LLC, a landscape and website design firm, http://www.gizmocreations.com, located in Merrifield, Minnesota.

Most working individuals with families target a home as their primary investment. Since the home is generally considered symbolic of one’s social status, many exert much effort to make their homes a beautiful and comfortable one without sacrificing functionality and the budget. This attitude also helps boost the property’s value and makes the dwelling a personal statement of the homeowner.

This motivation drives a multi-billion dollar market for home refurbishments, fixtures and related maintenance and services. One particular segment that thrives on home building and renovation is the market for patio canopies, covers and accessories.

The exposure that patios have to rain, snow, sun and the elements has made canopy manufacturers come up with varying models made of different materials to address this concern. For added comfort, canopy makers typically offer waterproof systems with roof tensioning and related support to prevent water accumulation. Made-to-order patio canopies can take 3-4 weeks before delivery.

One solution to protect patios from nature is the use of aluminum patio cover kits and retractable awnings. Such outdoor patio covers are generally for long-term use, maintenance-free and comply with standard municipal load ratings and provisions of the International Building Code. The retractable quality allows one to adjust awnings depending on the weather condition. Aluminum canopies also come in do-it-yourself models that can be used to augment a current deck, as carports or, for wealthier homeowners living near the water who have boats – protection for their vessels. Extended patio canopies allow homeowners practically continuous appreciation of the outdoors.

Patio canopies also have use for residences with a swimming pool, the backyard deck or other large and exposed areas. These flexible and pre-engineered structures can be attached to an existing home, over the target area to be covered or set up as a stand-alone unit. Canopies can also be made of steel while maintaining their retractability and flexibility. For added comfort, privacy or security, some manufacturers even offer screen attachments to close off a desired area. For wide-open patios, canopies effectively make them an extension of the house or a new room – giving the homeowner wider space and more comfort.

Homeowners have a wide range of options to better protect their patios and homes in general, ensuring also that visiting family and friends can be entertained outside regardless of weather conditions. Canopies also allow the owner to read a book, have tea or simply relax outside on the patio without any worry. Some canopy makers offers terms for individuals seeking a custom-made look with wind-release protection, awning flexibility and other desired features.

The US Census Bureau has noted that backyard patios have become an increasing fixture of new single-family homes: 45% of such dwellings have them, rising from 37% in 1992. This increase has fuelled a related jump in outdoor furniture sales: Figures from the American Home Furnishings Alliance reported a 129% increase in purchases of canopies, tables and other outdoor items from $1bn more than 10 years ago to $2.3bn in 2003.

That surge in demand has made retailers increase their focus on outdoor collections, with Hold Everything and West Elm launching their initial outdoor line in 2005. Separately, Restoration Hardware covered outdoor entertaining on 52 pages of its summer catalog, more than double the 25 pages it devoted to the category in 2004.

Some canopy covers are made from heavy-duty vinyl and are available in various sizes, allowing for easy maintenance and storage. Several makers offer vinyl patio units with limited 15-year warranties. As an alternative, companies also offer lattice patio cover kits created primarily for garden settings.

The market already offers patio canopies made from Alumawood, or aluminum material that feels and looks like wood. The product does not pose any of the problems identified with wood, including peeling, warping, repainting and termite attacks.

Patio canopies also extend beyond the residential market. Eide Industries, Inc. offers both permanent and temporary or portable models, with frames made from aluminum tubing or galvanized steel and fabric covers made from an extensive line of canvas products, for businesses and other non-residential users.

These exterior and interior products appeal to restaurants, resorts, hotels, retail shops, convention centers, theme parks, and exhibits and trade shows. For businesses fronted by a sidewalk, setting up a canopy along the path would help shade passers-by and also possibly draw potential customers to the shop. Combined with appropriate lighting at night, patio canopies add to the overall look of a business even during off-hours.

For more great patio cover info and advice check out: http://www.coverseeker.com

Let’s face it: Our houseplants aren’t the most important things on our to-do lists, and even the most attentive gardeners will sometimes forget to water the hanging baskets. The good news is that unless the plants are completely dead, they can usually be revived.

Begin by clipping off dead flowers and browning leaves. See! It looks better already. Now cut back yellowing stems and stems with a good many yellowing leaves to encourage the plant to send out new shoots. If your plant has trailing stems, you may have to detangle the stems first to determine which are worth keeping.

If you’re like me, you may find it hard to clip off buds that will be opening soon, so use your own judgment to determine if this is necessary. A plant with a lot of damage will have more trouble recovering if it’s trying to support buds during the recovery period, and the buds may eventually fall off without opening anyway. If the damage is mild, leave the buds that are on undamaged stems in place.

Watering a dried out basket can be difficult. You may find that as you pour water into the basket it simply runs out without wetting the soil. The best way to overcome this is to run a pan of tepid water, and add a drop or two of dishwashing liquid. The dishwashing liquid acts as a wetting agent and allows the water to soak into the soil. Set your plant inside the pan of water and leave it for at least an hour, or until the basket is saturated, and mist the plants a time or two while they soak. If there are heavy chains or ropes attached to your basket, support them with a stick so that they don’t lay on top of your plants. When the plants are dry, it doesn’t take much weight to break the stems and leaves.

At this point we want to do everything we can to help our plants get back on their feet, but it’s best to avoid feeding them for about five days. This gives them time to overcome the shock before trying to send out new shoots.

Watch your recovering plants closely for signs of insects or disease. In their weakened state, they are more susceptible to pests and fungus, and they should be treated right away if you suspect a problem. Before you know it, your basket will be bursting with blooms again.

Jackie Carroll is the editor or GardenGuides.com, a leading internet destination for gardeners, and GardenGuidesKids.com. http://www.gardenguides.com http://www.gardenguideskids.com

This does not have much to do with casting concrete in molds or forms, but it is interesting. I wondered just how long concrete had been around after reading an article that claims that the pyramids are made of concrete blocks. http://www.geopolymer.org/science_archaeology/pyramids_egypt/index.html - if you want to see it. It looked interesting so I looked up Roman concrete.

They where known to be using concrete and molds 2000 years ago. The cement part was the same as today. The difference was the way it was obtained. Modern cement is made from limestone in cement plants. It is crushed and ground to a fine powder, and cooked at very high temperatures. In Roman times they used volcanic ash (composed of silica and some aluminum and iron oxide) and lime.

This was mixed with sand in as dry a mix as possible on site and placed over layers of rock that had been pre set. Then they pounded the concrete mix into the rocks until the spaces between the rocks where filled with the mix. Then another layer of rocks, more concrete mix, etc. Until the thickness that was wanted was reached. It was a good system, the Pantheon is still there in Rome along with a lot of other buildings made this way over 2000 years ago.

Around 1980 or so this method was "rediscovered" and is often used now. With modern equipment such as mobile vibrators and vibratory rollers it is used to make Dams, airport runways, and in other places where strong concrete is needed. This is stronger than poured concrete because there are less voids. Voids cause weakness. It is also cheaper because no rebar is used. some say it is environmentally friendly, -less steel, less water and runoff, and less cement. In modern poured concrete the voids are compensated for with rebar. The romans did not have steel, and their concert didn’t need it!

Some of their buildings used clay bricks in the concrete and some had bronze where we would have rebar. This was not a common practice, but was used on roofs and arches.

I wonder if some off our modern buildings will be around in 2000 years? Probably not. The Pantheon will be 4000 years old then, but probably be starting to show its age.

For more on this search for "roller compacted concrete". Here is a link to a dam in CA. http://www.cncpc.org/pages/media.html Those of you that live downstream from a dam may be particularly interested.

copyright 2005 Delmar Germyn http://www.delsmolds.com

Author - Del Germyn Web site http://www.delsmolds.com

My web site is setup to help you and I learn more about molds and casting in general.

YOU WILL FIND….

Articles on how to mix your concrete, hypertufa, etc for different uses.

Free information on how to make your own molds. Tips and hints on their use and care.

Free information on making and using various types of molds to cast concrete, plaster, cement, ceramics, and molding with hypertufa.

Suggestions for projects that you can do in a couple of hours that will make your yard / garden look great.

All the information on the site is free to use and share.

Click here to go to my site now. http://www.delsmolds.com

I am hoping that when you see what I have (or have not) set out you will send in your tips and stories.

By sharing we can all learn from each other. We can also help newcomers to the hobby / business.

The site will be constantly added to as time passes, so please click for updates

There is more than one way to go about foot bridge construction. If you have decided to add a foot bridge or two to your property you will want to know something about foot bridge construction.

A foot bridge makes a nice addition to a garden area and also looks lovely when constructed over a pond or Japanese style dry river bed. There are several places to look when you are ready for foot bridge construction.

There are foot bridge construction ideas in magazines and books that are available online or at bookstores or libraries. Home improvement centers may also have ideas or plans for foot bridge construction.

If this is a first-time building project you may want to consider a foot bridge construction kit. These kits can be purchased online and many are easy to construct and come with everything needed to complete the project.

Foot bridge construction kits will come with the materials for many different sizes and styles of bridges. The foot bridges may be constructed from pine, cedar or redwood.

Pine is attractive in its natural color or it can be stained or painted. Make sure that that the pine has been pressure-treated. Cedar resists mold and decay and it also repels insects. It ages well and does not splinter easily. Redwood resists rotting and holds up well in most weather conditions.

If you want to pay less you may want to build the foot bridge from plans instead of from a kit. This will decrease the foot bridge construction costs. Once again, check for foot bridge construction plans online where you will have a nice variety of choices.

Foot bridge construction need not be difficult or expensive.

We have a large number of styles and varieties of foot and
garden bridges available online. For more information and to learn
more about foot bridges, visit
http://small-garden-bridges.partnersinsuccess.net/

IF you thought that creating an attractive walkway of stone or brick pavers was something you could not afford. Or maybe you just didn’t want to deal with the inevitable weeds growing up between them. Stamped concrete may just be the answer you are looking for.

This process will give you a high-durability, low-cost alternative to those expensive traditional surface treatments for walkways, patios, and driveways. The technique is surprisingly simple. Stamped concrete involves pouring in the traditional manner, finishing the surface as usual, and then treating it with a hardener. It is then colored to the customer’s desire and stamped with molds that imprint virtually any surface texture imaginable.

Brick pavers, stone, tiles, slate, flagstone… almost any traditional surface treatment can be reproduced in stamped concrete. In addition to walkways, it’s also ideal for patios, porches, pool decks and driveways. Since it is poured as a whole, it can be completed much faster than traditional bricks or pavers. Because it consists of one solid surface, no weeds grow as happens with individually installed pavers. It’s also stronger than regular concrete. The hardener brings the stamped concrete’s surface strength up to 8,000 psi: almost triple the tensile strength of regular concrete. Maintenance consists of resealing every five years or so.

Copyright © 2005 Delmar Germyn. All rights reserved.

Author - Del Germyn Web site http://www.delsmolds.com

My web site is setup to help you learn a little about molds and casting in general.

THERE YOU WILL FIND….

- Articles on how to mix your concrete, hypertufa, etc for different uses.

- Free information on how to make your own molds. Tips and hints on their use and care.

- Free information on making and using various types of molds to cast concrete, plaster, cement, ceramics, and molding with hypertufa.

- Suggestions for projects that you can do in a couple of hours that will make your yard / garden look great. All the information on the site is free to use and share. I am hoping that when you see what I have (or have not) set out you will send in your tips and stories. By sharing we can learn from each other. We can also help newcomers to the hobby / business.

The site is constantly added to, so please check it often. http://www.delsmolds.com

Concrete has been used in construction as a building material and as a decorative medium for over 2000 years. When the Romans discovered how to make their own stone it soon became used for both building and in beautification projects.

The advantages are obvious it is easy to use, does not have the transportation problems that where faced when moving huge pieces of rock to the construction site. Concrete could be cast in place. Small objects where cast in molds and then placed where the architect wanted them. This revolutionized construction. It also made it possible for the average citizen to build his own house with rocks or manufactured bricks. He now had a way to hold them together. He could use mortar, a close relative of concrete.

Concrete is cast in many ways: in small plastic molds, and huge steel forms. It is the medium of choice for some artists. Some of the work done by them is stunning to say the least. Others cast concrete and then sculpt it, creating beautiful individualized pieces.

You have seen it alongside highways. In the old days it was there to serve a purpose and no attempt was made to make it look like anything but a concrete wall. Now it still has a purpose but is made to look good as well. This is done with steel forms that have a design built into them. Like a big mold!

Depending on climate and more important the budget some of these walls are even colored. They can have the color added to the concrete or be painted or stained after the form is removed. This makes an attractive looking wall instead of an ugly cement abutment. One thing that has been noticed by municipalities and others that have started to use this method is that graffiti is not appearing as quickly and if it does it is in nowhere near the volume as when the big flat surface was presented! Maybe it is too hard to paint on?

Copyright © 2005 Delmar Germyn. All rights reserved.

Author - Del Germyn Web site http://www.delsmolds.com

My web site is setup to help you learn a little about molds and casting in general.

YOU WILL FIND….

Articles on how to mix your concrete, hypertufa, etc for different uses.

Free information on how to make your own molds. Tips and hints on their use and care.

Free information on making and using various types of molds to cast concrete, plaster, cement, ceramics, and molding with hypertufa.

Suggestions for projects that you can do in a couple of hours that will make your yard / garden look great. All the information on the site is free to use and share.

I am hoping that when you see what I have (or have not) set out you will send in your tips and stories. By sharing we can learn from each other. We can also help newcomers to the hobby / business. The site is constantly added to, so please check it often.

Mulching beds has become extremely popular these days, and mulch can be really beneficial to your plants and the soil in your planting beds, but there are things you need to watch for.

Here in Ohio the most popular type of mulch that people use is shredded hardwood bark mulch, which is a byproduct of the timber industry. When they haul the logs into the sawmill the first thing they do is debark them. Years ago the bark was a huge problem for the mills because there didn’t seem to be a useful purpose for it, until people realized the hidden benefits that it held. Still to this day, the bark is a headache for the saw mills, and they don’t always understand how to properly handle it.

They like to pile it as high as they can so it takes up less space in their yard. The mulch really tends to back up during the winter months because there is little demand for it. In order for the mills to pile the mulch high, they literally have to drive the large front end loaders up onto the pile. Of course the weight of these large machines compacts the mulch in the pile, and this can become a huge problem for you or I if we happen to get some mulch that has been stacked too high, and compacted too tightly.

When the trees are first debarked the mulch is fairly fresh, and needs to decompose before we dare use it around our plants. The decomposition process requires oxygen and air flow into the pile. When the mulch is compacted too tight, this air flow cannot take place, and as the mulch continues to decompose it becomes extremely hot as the organic matter ferments. Sometimes the extreme heat combined with the inability to release the heat can cause the pile to burst into flame through spontaneous combustion.

In other cases the mulch heats up, cannot release the gas, and the mulch actually becomes toxic. When this occurs the mulch develops an overbearing odor that will take your breath away as you dig into the pile. When you spread this toxic mulch around your plants the gas it contains is released, and this gas can and will burn your plants.

It has happened to me twice. Once at my own house, and once on a job I was doing for a customer. This toxic mulch is very potent. We spilled a little mulch in the foliage of a Dwarf Alberta Spruce that we were mulching around, and just a few minutes later brushed the mulch out of the plant. The next day my customer noticed that one side of the plant was all brown. The mulch had only been there for a matter of minutes.

Not only did I have to replace the Dwarf Alberta Spruce, but the mulch also damaged at least 10 other plants that I had to replace. I once saw where somebody ordered a truck load of mulch, had it dumped in their driveway, and as the toxic mulch slid out of the dump truck onto the asphalt the toxic gas that was released settled on the lawn next to the driveway.

The gas, not the mulch, turned the grass brown next to the mulch pile.

This same person spread several yards of the mulch around their house before they realized the problem, and it ruined many of their plants.

Now here’s the hard part; trying to explain to you how to identify toxic mulch. It has a very strong odor that will take your breath away. But then again almost all mulch has a powerful odor. This is very different than your typical mulch smell, but I can’t explain it any better than that.

The mulch looks perfectly normal, maybe a little darker in color than usual. If you suspect a problem with the mulch you have, take a couple of shovels full, and place it around an inexpensive plant. Maybe just a couple of flowers. When doing this test use mulch from inside the mulch pile and not from the edges. The mulch on the edge of the pile has more than likely released most of the toxic gas that it may have held.

If after 24 hours the test plants are okay, the mulch should be fine. The purpose of this article is not to induce panic at the mulch yard, but toxic mulch can do serious damage. At my house it burned the leaves right off some of the plants in my landscape, and burned the grass next to the bed all the way around the house. It looked like somebody had taken a torch and burned the grass back about 2” all the way around the bed. If I hadn’t seen it with my own eyes I wouldn’t have believed it.

You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com.

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter.  Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com.