'Basic Gardening' Category Archive

Posted on Aug 18th, 2007

I am going to try to tell you in as few words as possible, how vacuum formed molds are made.

The first step is making the "buck". This is the name of the piece that the forming will be done over.

This has to be smooth, strong, heat resistant, and free of undercuts.

The smooth part is self explanatory.

The strong part is so that it will not be crushed when the plastic is being formed over it.

The heat resistant part is because the plastic is at about 300 degrees F.

And no undercuts is so that you will be able to get your piece out of the mold without having to cut the mold off.

All these are of equal importance. They all must be done, and done right!

This is the time consuming part of making the molds.

Once this has been done the buck is placed on he table of the vacuum forming machine. The blank piece of plastic is clamped into its frame and heated.

As soon as the plastic has reached it flow temperature it is pressed down onto the buck and vacuum is applied at the same time.

The plastic forms over the buck and cools. This takes about 15 seconds!

Once it has cooled (about 30 seconds) you pop the buck out, take the plastic out of its clamp frame and trim out the mold!

That’s it!!

Copyright © 2005 Delmar Germyn All Rights Reserved.

Author - Del Germyn Web site http://www.delsmolds.com

My web site is setup to help you and I learn more about molds and casting in general.

YOU WILL FIND….

Articles on how to mix your concrete, hypertufa, etc for different uses.

Free information on how to make your own molds. Tips and hints on their use and care.

Free information on making and using various types of molds to cast concrete, plaster, cement, ceramics, and molding with hypertufa.

Suggestions for projects that you can do in a couple of hours that will make your yard / garden look great.

All the information on the site is free to use and share.

Click here to go to my site now. http://www.delsmolds.com

I am hoping that when you see what I have (or have not) set out you will send in your tips and stories.

By sharing we can all learn from each other. We can also help newcomers to the hobby / business.

The site will be constantly added to as time passes, so please click for updates.

Posted on Jul 25th, 2007

As our population in the United States grows we have a greater and greater need for fresh water supplies. But only 3% of the Earth’s water is fresh, the rest is in the oceans and cannot be used for drinking water without a desalination process taking place first. Most of the fresh water on Earth is underground in aquifers and the rest is in rivers, lakes and streams and floating or swirling around in the sky in the form of clouds.

Some believe that Hurricanes are terrible disasters to our economic engine and very costly to our nation’s treasury, this of course cannot be debated after the most recent onslaught of Hurricanes in the record breaking 2005 Hurricane Season with Katrina, Rita and Wilma. But did you know that long-term droughts in our nation have cost our economic productivity and output more by a factor of ten than the recent Hurricanes? It is true.

As we expand our populations we are finding that relatively minor drought seasons become major catastrophes and mild years of rainfall or snow pack become exacerbated because we are using more water than is being cycled through the system. You see the problem is, we as Americans are taking our water for granted and we are not conserving this vital resource. We should not waste water, because we will need it later. Even in wet years all it seems to do is barely catch us up even or bring us out of an extreme drought water supply into a tolerable situation. If you want to help the problem be a good steward of our water supplies and conserve water. Think on this.

"Lance Winslow" - Online Think Tank forum board. If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs/

Posted on Jul 18th, 2007

There is something quite magical about painting outdoors. I feel comfortably secluded with nature having an almost spiritual connection when I paint a landscape. Landscape painting is a passion of mine. I would like to share some tips and techniques that I have become accustomed to using over the years.

My first bit of advice - try not to get overwhelmed by the scene in front of you. I recall when I first began painting landscapes I tried to copy everything exactly as I saw it. I tried to squeeze in every detail, paint every leaf, branch, and blade of grass. You will go crazy approaching a landscape this way. Try and paint your own impression of what you see and not a copy of it. Squint your eyes and see the landscape as a series of shapes, lights and darks, as opposed to seeing every detail. You can accomplish some amazing things that you never thought were inside, if you just relax, and let the painter inside come to the surface.

Painting on location is certainly a beautiful experience, but remember that you have to paint quite fast as the lighting will change quickly. I usually begin my paintings using a larger brush. This prevents me from focusing on the details too much and enables me to establish the major components of the painting. I also take a few shots of the scene with a digital camera. In the event that I am unable to capture the scene in one sitting, I now have a reference photo to complete the painting in my studio.

Try toning your canvas with acrylic paint first before applying your oil paint. I find starting a landscape with toned ground makes it easier to judge values. You can also let some of that underpainting show through in some areas of your painting for an interesting effect.

Creating the illusion of depth or distance in your paintings can be accomplished using different techniques. You can adjust your colors by making them cooler and less intense for the distant objects, warmer and more intense for closer objects. Reduce the size of objects as they recede. You can also take away details and sharp edges to make objects appear more distant.

You should have a focal point, otherwise known as "center of interest" in your painting. All other objects in your painting should not compete with your focal point and should serve to draw the viewer to your center of interest.

Instead of jumping right for the paint, use a pencil and paper instead. Drawing is great practice. When I am drawing, I am more relaxed and intimate with the scene. I am training myself to see the various lights and darks of the scene without the use of color.

Bring only those items that you know you will need and use. When you focus too much of your time on lugging around unwanted materials, it takes away from the enjoyment of what you came there to do, paint!

Painting clouds appears to be one of the bigger challenges for beginners; I know it was for me. What I mentioned in the beginning about trying not to paint every detail applies to clouds as well. Clouds are three-dimensional objects made up of water and ice particles that reflect light so the color of your clouds will vary depending on the weather and lighting conditions. Remember general perspective rules when painting clouds. Clouds closer to you will generally be more detailed. As they recede into the distance they begin to lose detail and get smaller in size. Pay special attention to the edges of the clouds as sharp edges advance while smooth edges recede.

Make your composition as interesting as possible by balancing positive and negative space in your painting. The negative space surrounds the positive space and is equally important. Do not neglect the negative space, but at the same time, do not let it dominate your composition.

I hope this article on landscape painting tips was helpful. Just relax, let go and most importantly enjoy yourself!

Ralph Serpe is Webmaster and Cofounder of Creative Spotlite - http://www.creativespotlite.com a free educational art and craft community. Visit Creative Spotlite today for more landscape painting tips.

Posted on Jul 17th, 2007

I have tried it and not seen a huge difference in the end result. The concrete seemed to cure faster but that may have been the weather. It was during the summer and very hot out. I am sure that it was a little more waterproof and seemed to resist chipping a bit better. In hypertufa I give it a big YES! It will improve your results considerably.

"Elmer’s" brand glue says on the label that you can use it in concrete and gives instructions. I think it said 300ml glue plus 150ml water per 10 lbs. of concrete mix. Don’t take my word for it, look it up!!

I have used it as a bonding agent when pouring new concrete on top of old. First wash the old with muratic acid, rinse then paint on the white glue. It seems to help. I have seen these joints taken apart with jackhammers a couple of years later and the bond looked excellent. This was in a very harsh west coast marine application, so I say it works well!

I also think that it makes a difference when added to hypertufa. My theory is that it gives back some of the strength lost due to the organic matter (peat) in Tufa. I also have an idea that it helps waterproof it a little, and that is a big benefit in outdoor projects.

I made a couple of "Giant Heads" about 3 feet high with ‘Tufa. These where done over about a week, adding on every day. The ‘Tufa had glue in it. I am certain it helped to bond it better during the sculpting process. When done they seemed a little harder on the surface and water ran off better than it did on projects where there was no glue added. I can tell you they survived one -35 degree winter, they disappeared after that so I cannot report any further.

Generally I would say that white glue works at least as well as you have heard. If you heard it does not work, don’t try it. I will continue to tell people to go ahead. It can’t do any harm!

Copyright © 2005 Delmar Germyn All rights reserved.

Author - Del Germyn Web site http://www.delsmolds.com

My web site is setup to help you and I learn more about molds and casting in general.

YOU WILL FIND….

Articles on how to mix your concrete, hypertufa, etc for different uses.

Free information on how to make your own molds. Tips and hints on their use and care.

Free information on making and using various types of molds to cast concrete, plaster, cement, ceramics, and molding with hypertufa.

Suggestions for projects that you can do in a couple of hours that will make your yard / garden look great.

All the information on the site is free to use and share.

Click here to go to my site now. http://www.delsmolds.com I am hoping that when you see what I have (or have not) set out you will send in your tips and stories. By sharing we can all learn from each other. We can also help newcomers to the hobby / business. The site will be constantly added to. Check back often.

Posted on Jul 15th, 2007

Pruning can improve the health, productivity and appearance of your trees and shrubs. But improper pruning can destroy the shape of your plants and also cause more harm than good. Following a few simple guidelines can help make the right decisions when deciding what to prune out of your trees and shrubs.

First, remove the three D’s, dead, diseased or damaged branches. Also prune out branches that cross each other. Trees do best with only one leader, which is the main upright trunk of the tree. If there is a branch competing to be the leader it should be pruned.

Understand your plant’s shape. Is it natural creeping, mounding or upright? Visualize what shape the mature plant will be and prune out branches that interfere with the natural shape.

Remove suckers. Some plants, such as glossy black chokeberries tend to send up suckers which are new shoots from where the stem meets the root. Carefully cut out the suckers which interfere with the shape of the plant.

Timing. Generally it is best to prune plants in late winter or early spring before the new growth starts. However, for spring and early summer blooming shrubs and trees, such as lilacs, wait until after the bloom and then trim. This will help you to avoid cutting off the current buds.

In pruning it is best to recognize your limitations. For tall trees or high branches you may need to call a professional arborist. Also, if you have any questions on what or when to prune make sure you do more research before getting out those clippers.

Donna Evans is co-owner of Gizmo Creations LLC, a landscape and website design firm, located just north of Brainerd, Minesota. Gizmo Creations has over 20 years of landscape design experience. For more information on landscaping or website design go to http://www.gizmocreations.com.

Posted on Jul 14th, 2007

Have you ever looked at the soil in your garden and considered it as anything more than soil? If not you should because there is a lot more there than meets the eye. It performs many functions that you may not be aware of and having good quality soil in your garden is essential for your plants. In this article we will look at the functions of soil, what different types there are and finally some ways to make it healthier.

Functions of Soil
The most immediately apparent function of soil is a medium to support plant life. It provides support both physically and biologically. Physical support is provided by allowing the plant to grow its roots through the soil to hold itself in place. Biological support is provided by its ability to hold nutrients and water that the plant needs. It also supports other types of life as well. Microorganisms and insects live in the soil and they in turn aid plant life by helping to decay organic material and adding structure to the soil. Soil allows the growth of food crops which are consumed by humans and also plants used in the creation of medicines. Microorganisms like fungi and bacteria that live in soil and are used to produce antibiotics. All life on earth is dependant on it either directly and indirectly. This includes the plant life in your garden.

What is Soil Made of?
The four major components of soil are mineral matter, organic matter (humus), water and air. Mineral matter refers to the inorganic elements in the soil e.g. stones, gravel and makes up to 40%-60% of its volume. This part of the soil usually originates from the bedrock that lies beneath the soil. Organic matter (humus) is the decayed remains and waste products of plants and animals and has a great effect on the chemical properties of the soil e.g. availability of nutrients. Almost 40%-60% of a soil’s volume can be space and this is occupied by water and air.

Different Types of Soil Texture
Soil texture is defined as the size distribution of different mineral particles. These mineral particles are at their most basic level the following: sand, silt and clay. Sand particles are 2 to 0.05 mm diameter, silt particles are 0.05 to 0.002 mm diameter and clay particles are

Clay soil
Contains a high percentage of clay particles and feels lumpy to the touch. The small size of the clay particles means that they clump together quite readily and there is less room for air spaces. Consequently clay soils have poor drainage and do not hold nutrients very well. This is a heavy soil and is sticky when wet making it hard to work with. As much as possible you should take steps to improve the drainage of this type of soil. You will learn how later on in this article.

Silty soil
Contains a high percentage of silt particles and feels smooth to the touch. This soil is a well drained soil due to the size of the particles allowing space for water to permeate. This soil holds nutrients more readily than clay soil due to the spaces. It is easy to cultivate but can be compacted quite easily.

Sandy soil
Contains a high percentage of sand particles and feels gritty to the touch, Allows for quite a lot of space in between particles and as a result is very free draining. This has its disadvantages however as it does not hold water and essential nutrients can get washed away.

Loamy soil
This is the best type of soil texture you can have in your garden. This is soil whose properties are controlled equally by the percentages of clay, silt and sand particles. It is well drained but does not loose water too easily as is the case with sandy and sometimes silty soils. The fact that it retains water means it also retains nutrients for your plants to use. It has a great structure and is easy to cultivate.

What Makes a Soil Healthy?
Healthy soil must be fertile and have a good structure.

For a soil to be fertile it must have nutrients readily available and a pH value at a recommended level for the plants that will reside in it. Nutrients that should be available are the essential nutrients nitrogen (leaf growth), phosphorous (root growth) and phosphorous (overall health). As well as the essential nutrients there should also be trace elements like calcium and magnesium. The pH level of the soil refers to its acidity or alkalinity and each plant has its own preferred value range. Plants placed into fertile soil will grow up to be very strong and healthy specimens (that is if other conditions like light levels and climate are favourable as well).

The other determiner of a healthy soil is its texture. We learned about different types of soil texture earlier in this article. Soil having a loamy texture is the healthiest and it should be strived for if at all possible. In general a soil that retain nutrients and allow water and air to permeate it will be beneficial for the life of your plants.

How to Create Healthy Soil
No matter what type of soil you have the addition of organic matter will work wonders for its health. Organic matter is plant and animal residues in varying forms of decomposition. It will replenish the nutrients in your soil and improve its texture. You may have heard countless times about adding your leftovers and glass clippings to a compost heap. This is a great idea as your compost is the best form of organic matter. Compost in an advanced stage of decomposition (dark and without smell) is magic for your soil. It encourages microorganism activity causing soil particles to clump together and form aggregates. The aggregates allows for spaces in the soil therefore increasing its drainage. This is especially beneficial for clay soils, which have poor drainage. Other forms of organic matter are animal manure and peat moss.

If your soil is lacking in nutrients and you don’t have access to a compost heap you have a choice of using inorganic or organic fertilizers. Inorganic fertilizers (inorganic salts, manufactured chemically) can be purchased at your local garden and are applied in a dry form that is raked lightly at the base of a plant or in a liquid form. While inorganic fertilizers will work fine they have a number of disadvantages: they release their nutrients too quickly and there is some evidence to show that plants develop a resistance to inorganic fertilizer methods over time, requiring more and more to achieve the same effect. Organic fertilizers are more in tune with nature because they are created from the remains or by-product of an organism. They act slower but they ‘amend’ the soil rather than the quick ‘feeding’ it like inorganic fertilizers.

The pH of your soil will also affect its fertility. Each plant has its own preferred pH value range. To learn more pH and how to change it read my Soil pH article here: http://www.gardenstew.com/blog/e3-9-soil-ph-and-its-effect-on-your-garden.html.

Conclusion
Soil like a lot of things in the garden requires maintenance. We have learned about the different types of soil texture, what constitutes a fertile, healthy soil and how to create it if it does not exist. The next step is to step out into your garden, take a look at your soil and help your plants out if your soil is of a poor quality. Your plants will thank you ten-fold believe me. Good luck!

Visit the home and gardening forum at GardenStew.com or start your free home and garden blog.

Original article location: Soil Basics - Creating Fertile, Healthy Soil

More gardening articles

Posted on Jun 18th, 2007

Enhancing your habitat Story

Habitat, simply put is the area where animals live. The key to wildlife survival, habitat provides four basic elements: food, water, cover and nesting areas.

Whether you have a small backyard or a larger area with fields and/or woodland, you can help provide these essential resources for a variety of wildlife, including birds, butterflies, insects, small mammals and some larger animals.

Begin by walking around your yard or property to identify any existing habitat resources. Make a map or plan of the land, noting any trees, shrubs, flowers, plants, vines and secret spots that might provide cover for wildlife. Look for brush and rock piles, as well as water or wetland areas.

Once your plan is completed, take note of those existing features that are providing good wildlife habitat. From here, you may decide to add more water features, an area for cover and nesting or additional native plants for food.

The best way to provide a year-round source of food is to plant a diverse selection of plants, shrubs, trees and vines. If you live in an apartment or have a very small yard, you may only be able to set out a few flowering plants in the summer, supplemented by feeding a variety of birdseed.

Use feeders designed to keep the seed dry and clean. Check them regularly and discard wet or moldy seeds that can make birds sick. Consider separate birdfeeders for different seed types to minimize waste. Or use a seed mix and and leave the droppings for ground feeding birds and small mammals, if you prefer. If you have room, scatter some mixed birdseed over a small area of ground and allow it to germinate. Ground feeding birds and small mammals appreciate not only the feed, but also the cover provided by the growing seedlings. Various birds, butterflies and bees will appreciate the nectar of potted or garden flowers such as nicotiana, salvia, rudbeckia and snapdragon, to name only a few.

For your small habitat garden, provide cover and nesting spaces with birdhouses. A birdbath will complete the habitat requirements. Birdbaths should be shallow, no more than three-inches deep, and have a sloping, rough bottom to provide good footing.

Larger gardens with fields or lawn and perhaps some wooded areas offer additional opportunities for providing wildlife habitat. In addition to a variety of flowers and plants, shrubs and trees will enhance your landscape and provide the requisite food, cover and nesting sites. Utilize any existing food sources that already exist on your land and purchase other plantings that will invite wildlife to your table.

Some native shrubs and trees to consider are: American Highbush Cranberry (Viburnum trilobum); Common Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis); Nannyberry (Viburnum lentago); American Mountain Ash (Sorbus Americana); Dolgo and Prairie Fire crabapple trees: Silky Dogwood (Cornus ammomum); Red-Osier Dogwood (Cornus stolonifera) and Buttonbush (Celphalenthus occidentalis).

Vines such as Dropmore Scarlet Honeysuckle and wild grapes as well as brambles like blackberries and raspberries provide a source of food for many birds, as well as cover and nesting places.

If you’ve watery habitat on your property, preserve it as a source of water for wildlife. If not, consider putting in a small pond or locate several birdbaths in various secure spots. Heated birdbaths provide a source of water when most other sources are frozen.

Wildlife, particularly birds, seek cover and nesting spots in trees and shrubs. Additional cover can be provided for small mammals such as snowshoe hare, rabbits and other small mammals by creating small brush piles in several locations. Or create a 10-20 foot strip of shrubs, hemlocks, or other evergreens to provide a border for cover and a windbreak for birds, small mammals, beneficial insects and deer. Borders or edges provide both screening from objectionable views and provide animal protection, travel lanes, food, cover and nesting spots.

Finally, keep in mind natural processes in your plan for wildlife habitat. Leave seedpods, berries and grasses to mature. Pile small twigs and branches where animals can scurry for shelter. Allow some areas to remain small fields where grasshoppers can live and turkeys can feed.

Steve Link - Pifer-Swann Realty This article was written by Steve Link. He is an agent for Pifer-Swann Realty and is also a farmland manager. Steve will periodically submit articles for the benefit of Land20’s readers. If you have any questions or comments you can email him at stlink@pifer-swan.com

Posted on Jun 13th, 2007

Anyone with even a passing knowledge of plants knows that daphnes have wonderfully fragrant flowers. And because some of them - usually the most scented - flower in winter, they’re the sort of must-have plants that are usually among the first planted in any new garden.

There are around 50 species of Daphne, many of which are choice garden specimens. They are widespread lot, ranging from Europe and North Africa to temperate and subtropical Asia. Most of them are evergreen or nearly so, but a few are deciduous, often flowering before the foliage expands.

The plant everyone calls daphne is Daphne odora, particularly the cultivar ‘Leucantha’ , which is often misspelt ‘Leucanthe’ . This shrub, a native of China and Japan, sells in vast numbers, mainly on the strength of its perfume, but also because it’s a reasonably hardy evergreen bush. It grows to around 1.5m tall with leathery, deep green leaves up to 80mm long. From mid-winter on into spring it produces clusters of small, starry, pale pink flowers. Several flower and foliage forms are available and the variety with yellow-edged leaves, ‘Variegata’ (sometimes called ‘Aureomarginata’ ), is often hardier and easier to grow than the species.

Daphne odora can be quite particular about soil conditions and is slightly frost tender in cold winter areas. It does best in cool, moist, humus enriched, well-drained, acid soil in sun or light shade. Work in plenty of compost or similar organic matter - it’s impossible to use too much - and feed regularly with liquid fertilisers and an occasional side dressing of acid fertiliser. Kept healthy, D. odora develops quickly and is attractive even without flowers, but it isn’t a long-lived bush. You can expect to have to replace it at least every 8-10 years.

Because daphnes are so popular, nurseries propagate thousands of them every year. For many years the plants were nearly all cutting-raised and with repeated propagation by this method the cutting stocks declined and became badly infected with viral diseases that were transmitted to their progeny. Around fifteen years ago Daphne odora ‘Leucantha’ was refreshed by producing new plants by tissue culture, thereby eliminating most of the disease problems. At the time, the improved appearance of these virus-free "high-health" plants was remarkable. Although since then new batches of tissue cultured plants have been introduced, many of the original high-health daphnes were used as cutting stock and now these plants are showing viral problems. When buying ‘Leucantha’ try to ensure that you get a tissue cultured plant or a first or second generation cutting from cultured stock.

Several other species are similar in appearance to Daphne odora and are well worth growing as slightly different alternatives to what everyone else has. Of these, Daphne bholua and Daphne laureola are the most commonly available.

Daphne bholua occurs in both deciduous and evergreen forms, but here they all seem to behave as semi-evergreens (or semi-deciduous if you like). It is shrub up to 3m tall, sometimes rather narrow and open in habit, that like Daphne odora flowers in winter and spring. The flowers are strongly scented, white-tinged-pink and open from deep pink buds. Black fruits (drupes) follow the flowers.

First classified in 1825 but slow to enter cultivation, it is one of a group of four species known as paper daphnes because in their home range paper and ropes were made from their bark. It was first recorded in gardens in 1938, but didn’t really become at all widely grown until the late 1960s to mid 70s.

Native to the eastern Himalayas, it is somewhat tougher than Daphne odora under New Zealand conditions. Though strangely, British references often rate it as slightly less hardy. Whatever the reason for its local success, just be happy to know that in most of our gardens it thrives.

Daphne bholua is difficult to raise from cuttings and although it can be grafted, seed is the best method of propagation. The seed germinates well and while the seedlings are slow to start into strong growth, they gain vigour with age and usually flower in their fourth year.

Daphne laureola) for a very heavily foliaged form of Daphne odora. However, this European and western Asian native is a much tougher and more adaptable plant. It grows to about 1.5m tall and has lush, deep green, evergreen foliage that is capable of tolerating deep shade. Its flowers are fragrant and because they are small and rather a pale green shade, it’s often the scent that strikes one first, locating the flowers by sight taking a little longer.

If only for its value as a foliage plant for dull corners, Daphne laureola could be much more widely grown. The scent is really just a bonus.

You may also see Daphne pontica from the Balkans and western Asia. It too has glossy, deep green, leathery leaves and fragrant flowers, sometimes very pale pink to white but usually a light green shade and fragrant.

Iron chlorosis is a potential problem with all of these dark green, large-leaved, evergreen daphnes. When chlorotic, their foliage yellows, though the veins tend to remain green. The answer is to mulch well and to occasionally drench the soil with an iron sulphate or iron chelates solution. Use iron sulphate at the rate of around a teaspoon per litre of water.

Other daphnes are quite different and may not be what you’d expect if you’re familiar with only Daphne odora. The most widely grown, Daphne × burkwoodii, isn’t a species but a hybrid between Daphne cneorum and Daphne caucasica. It is a twiggy, densely foliaged evergreen or semi-evergreen bush with matt mid-green foliage and masses of small, fragrant, pink flowers in spring. The variegated foliage forms, such as ‘Carol Mackie’, are probably more widely grown than the plain species and have the advantage of being more colourful when not in flower.

Several other species, such as Daphne cneorum, Daphne retusa, Daphne collina and Daphne × neapolitana are similar in general appearance but vary in size and flower colour. The smallest of the readily available species is the rock daphne (Daphne cneorum). It grows to about 20cm high × 60cm wide and has the reputation of being a difficult plant to cultivate well, although it’s definitely worth trying. The form ‘Eximea’ is a sturdier than the species. Excellent drainage, shelter from really hot summer sun and some winter chilling seem to be the keys to success.

The exquisite dwarf Daphne arbuscula is a much sought after rockery species with small, evergreen, leathery, deep green leaves and fragrant, bright pink flowers. It grows to about 15cm high × 25cm wide and is one of the best and easiest to grow of the small daphnes, yet it’s hardly ever seen in the nurseries and garden centres. It’s a superb plant with all the merits of the rock daphne and few of its faults, being relatively undemanding about soil type and very hardy.

If pollinated, its flowers are followed by small, greyish drupes, which while scarcely a feature, contain a single seed that germinates quite freely if stratified for a few weeks before sowing. Alternatively, sow the seed in autumn in a cool place outdoors, which should provide the necessary chilling. Layers and semi-ripe spring cuttings will root but can take quite a while to strike.

The deciduous species are a group that is quite distinct from the others. When in leaf, the most common species, D. mezereum, could perhaps be mistaken for Daphne × burkwoodii, but it’s easily distinguished by its habit of flowering on bare wood in late winter and early spring. Both white- and pink-flowered forms are available.

Many connoisseurs regard Daphne genkwa as the most desirable deciduous species. It too blooms before its foliage develops and the flowers are lavender and quite large. Although only slightly fragrant, the flowers are very delicate and pretty. One of this bush’s attractions is its young foliage. This, and the new growth, are covered in a fine down, which combined with their coppery colour make them very appealing. Propagation difficulties keep Daphne genkwa a fairly rare plant.

Occasionally you’ll come across beautiful species that make you wonder why we don’t grow a wider range of daphnes. Daphne longilobata from Tibet and Yunnan is a favourite of mine. It’s not a super-fancy plant and its flowers are small, white and only slightly scented, but it appeals to me. Likewise Daphne giraldii, which, while rather more conspicuous in bloom because of its fragrant, bright yellow flowers, relies on subtler charms for its appeal.

Many of the less common daphnes make marvellous garden plants but they’re seldom seen in cultivation. Some, such as Daphne blagayana, are well worth trying and avaiable with some effort, but others, like Daphne tangutica and Daphne jasminea, are very hard to find and might reward someone enterprising enough to try and popularise them. Until then we should be grateful for the wonderful plants we already have, which themselves could be much more widely and imaginatively used.

What’s in a name?

The name Daphne is a classic example of how confusing it would be if we relied on common names to identify plants. Daphne was a nymph of Greek Mythology who changed herself into a laurel to escape rape by Apollo. All rather dramatic, but what has a laurel to do with a daphne you may ask. Well, not much, though Daphne laureola is commonly known as the Spurge Laurel. That’s presumably because of its large, evergreen leaves, otherwise Daphne as a genus has little to do with Laurus.

I mentioned that Daphne bholua is one of a group of four Himalayan species that were used to produce paper. Looking at the bush that might seem unlikely, but several other genera of the wider daphne family, the Thymelaeaceae, are also used for paper production. Edgeworthia is probably the best known, and in another example of a confusing common name, it is sometimes known as Paper Mulberry, despite being unrelated to the Mulberry (Morus), which is itself used for paper production.

I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.

Posted on Jun 12th, 2007

Every autumn, I receive lots of email from growers telling me how they brought their Venus Flytraps indoors because of a weather forecast predicting frost.

It is a myth, plain and simple, that these North American carnivorous plants must be protected from frost. Ironically, frost is what helps them survive the winter!

Frost is the signal that plants need to know when it is time to go dormant. As Flytraps prepare for dormancy (and yes, they need to go dormant), they produce anti-freeze chemicals that help them survive freezing temperatures.

So, if you prevent your Venus Flytraps from experiencing frost, you prevent them from producing those anti-freeze chemicals. More importantly, you put your plants at risk and make it much harder on yourself.

You see, without any anti-freeze chemicals, Flytraps must always be protected from freezing temperatures. But, at the same time, they still need cool temperatures to slow down in growth and go dormant.

But, without frost, plants rarely enter deep dormancy. At the most, they enter what is called a winter rest. This is when plants are still growing, but they grow very slowly and their leaves look weak and listless. Flytraps in this state of growth actually require more care than those that go completely dormant.

Caring for Venus Flytraps during dormancy is very easy. Once dormant, simply keep the soil moist and protect the plant whenever the temperature goes below 20°F, which is true for any plant grown in containers, carnivorous or otherwise. Flytraps are native to North Carolina, so they are not at all unfamiliar with snowy conditions.

So, let your Venus Flytraps experience frost. Not only will you be helping them produce those anti-freeze chemicals, you will have an easier time caring for them when they go completely dormant.

AUTHOR: Jacob Farin is co-owner of Sarracenia Northwest, a nursery that specializes in the cultivation of carnivorous plants. He is also co-author of Secrets to Growing Beautiful Carnivorous Plants for Your Home and Garden. For details on the growing of carnivorous plants, visit http://www.cobraplant.com.

Posted on Jun 12th, 2007

There is no mention to be found of female leprechauns in traditional Irish legend, so as to how they came to be .. your guess is as good as mine.

These apparently aged, diminutive men are hard-working cobblers, turning out exquisite shoes for other sprites. If you happen across an industrious little fellow hammering out a shoe, look closely - for he may be a leprechaun. Step quietly, for leprechauns will avoid humans, knowing us to be foolish and greedy.

A leprechaun dresses in old-fashioned clothes of green, with a red cap, multi-pocketed leather apron, and buckled shoes. He is quite fond of a smoke from his foul smelling clay pipe which is always close by, and he is frequently in an intoxicated state from home-brew poteen. However, a leprechaun never becomes so drunk that the hand which holds the hammer becomes unsteady and his shoemaker’s work affected. If you hear the sound of a hammer from behind a hedgerow you know you have found him.

As well as cobbling, his other trade is banking, and he is guardian to the ancient treasures. Much treasure was left by the Danes when they marauded through Ireland, and the leprechaun buries it in crocks or pots. Rainbows reveal where pots of gold are hidden, so he will sometimes spend all day moving crocks from one spot to another to elude the tell-tale end of the rainbow. If you catch a leprechaun, don’t let him out of your grasp before he reveals his gold. He’ll try to distract you with all manner of tricks and, in the blink of an eye, will dash out of sight. For such a sturdy little chap, he can move with the speed of a rabbit.

He carries two leather pouches. In one there is a silver shilling, a magical coin that returns to the purse each time it’s spent. In the other there is a gold coin for bribing his way out of difficult situations. (Don’t accept this coin - it turns into a rock). But he can be generous if you do him a good turn. Your kind deed wil be repaid with a wish.

Leprechauns come in two distinct groups - leprechaun and cluricaun. A cluricaun dresses very stylishly with a jaunty cap, large silver buckles on his shoes, beautiful gold laces and pale blue stockings. You will never see him wear an apron or carry a hammer. He has a jolly grin, a slightly pink-tipped nose and is almost always drunk and cheerful. Pass him by, for he never has any money, or any idea where treasure is buried.

A cluricaun will steal or borrow almost anything, making merry and creating mayhem in your house during the hours of darkness. He will happily busy himself raiding your kitchen, pantry, larder and cellar and after dinner he will harness your sheep, goats, dogs and even your domestic fowls to ride away.Through the countryside he will race them, over the fields and into the bog. Leprechauns denounce cluricaun behavior, but it has been said that cluricauns may just be leprechauns on drunken sprees.

You can make a trap with common household items. Take a net, a cardboard box, green paint, green tissue paper, some pennies and an old shoe. Firstly, paint the cardboard box green and place the old shoe inside. Cover the opening with thin green tissue paper. Carefully lay the pennies on the tissue paper. (If you don’t want to use real money, you can easily substitute chocolate gold- wrapped coins or make your own by cutting circles out of cardboard and painting them gold).

Place the trap near some trees or hedgerows. Make sure it’s disguised well and blends into the surroundings. When the Leprechaun sees the coins he will try to collect them. He will step onto the tissue paper, it will break and he will fall into the box. Now quickly throw the net over him.

You can also try to lure a leprechaun with some poteen instead of an old shoe. When he falls into the box he will drink the brew, get drunk and then you can grab him.

No one has yet caught a leprechaun, but don’t be discouraged. Start looking today. Good luck !!

There is no mention to be found of female leprechauns in traditional Irish legend, so as to how they came to be .. your guess is as good as mine.

These apparently aged, diminutive men are hard-working cobblers, turning out exquisite shoes for other sprites. If you happen across an industrious little fellow hammering out a shoe, look closely - for he may be a leprechaun. Step quietly, for leprechauns will avoid humans, knowing us to be foolish and greedy.

A leprechaun dresses in old-fashioned clothes of green, with a red cap, multi-pocketed leather apron, and buckled shoes. He is quite fond of a smoke from his foul smelling clay pipe which is always close by, and he is frequently in an intoxicated state from home-brew poteen. However, a leprechaun never becomes so drunk that the hand which holds the hammer becomes unsteady and his shoemaker’s work affected. If you hear the sound of a hammer from behind a hedgerow you know you have found him.

As well as cobbling, his other trade is banking, and he is guardian to the ancient treasures. Much treasure was left by the Danes when they marauded through Ireland, and the leprechaun buries it in crocks or pots. Rainbows reveal where pots of gold are hidden, so he will sometimes spend all day moving crocks from one spot to another to elude the tell-tale end of the rainbow. If you catch a leprechaun, don’t let him out of your grasp before he reveals his gold. He’ll try to distract you with all manner of tricks and, in the blink of an eye, will dash out of sight. For such a sturdy little chap, he can move with the speed of a rabbit.

He carries two leather pouches. In one there is a silver shilling, a magical coin that returns to the purse each time it’s spent. In the other there is a gold coin for bribing his way out of difficult situations. (Don’t accept this coin - it turns into a rock). But he can be generous if you do him a good turn. Your kind deed wil be repaid with a wish.

Leprechauns come in two distinct groups - leprechaun and cluricaun. A cluricaun dresses very stylishly with a jaunty cap, large silver buckles on his shoes, beautiful gold laces and pale blue stockings. You will never see him wear an apron or carry a hammer. He has a jolly grin, a slightly pink-tipped nose and is almost always drunk and cheerful. Pass him by, for he never has any money, or any idea where treasure is buried.

A cluricaun will steal or borrow almost anything, making merry and creating mayhem in your house during the hours of darkness. He will happily busy himself raiding your kitchen, pantry, larder and cellar and after dinner he will harness your sheep, goats, dogs and even your domestic fowls to ride away.Through the countryside he will race them, over the fields and into the bog. Leprechauns denounce cluricaun behavior, but it has been said that cluricauns may just be leprechauns on drunken sprees.

You can make a trap with common household items. Take a net, a cardboard box, green paint, green tissue paper, some pennies and an old shoe. Firstly, paint the cardboard box green and place the old shoe inside. Cover the opening with thin green tissue paper. Carefully lay the pennies on the tissue paper. (If you don’t want to use real money, you can easily substitute chocolate gold- wrapped coins or make your own by cutting circles out of cardboard and painting them gold).

Place the trap near some trees or hedgerows. Make sure it’s disguised well and blends into the surroundings. When the Leprechaun sees the coins he will try to collect them. He will step onto the tissue paper, it will break and he will fall into the box. Now quickly throw the net over him.

You can also try to lure a leprechaun with some poteen instead of an old shoe. When he falls into the box he will drink the brew, get drunk and then you can grab him.

No one has yet caught a leprechaun, but don’t be discouraged. Start looking today. Good luck !!

Susanna Duffy is a Civil Celebrant, mythologist and storyteller. http://celebrant.yarralink.com

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