Archive for January, 2007

Posted on Jan 31st, 2007

A stain on the wall or floor of a swimming pool is either caused by metals in the pool water, or by something organic. The best clue to the source of the problem is the color of the pool stain. Stains on the walls or floor of a pool that are a greenish brown color are typically related to something organic, such as leaves sitting on the floor of the pool during the winter, or algae. A simple shock treatment and scrubbing with a stiff brush may quickly remove the stain. If brushing or scrubbing does not remove or lighten the stain, a natural ascorbic acid based product or diphosphonic acid based pool stain remover should be used. If a pool stain appears at the water line of the swimming pool you may use the appropriate tile or vinyl cleaner to gently scrub the stain away, or you might try one of the many very effective enzyme based cleaners. All natural pool enzymes will eat away at the oils holding dirt on the surface of the pool at the water line, to remove the stain with little or no scrubbing.

Stains that appear reddish brown or very dark colors are typically related to the metals in your pool water. The metals that commonly cause pool stains are iron, manganese & copper. A guide to the color of pool stain resulting from each of these metals is included below. If a swimmer’s blonde or light colored hair turns green after swimming in your pool, this is an indication that there is a high concentration of copper in the water.

  • Copper - Blue, Green or dark (Black)
  • Iron - Rusty, Brown or Green/Brownish
  • Manganese - Brownish/Black or Purple

These metals can occur naturally, and may be in the water you use to fill the pool. If you have hard water or fill your pool with well water you are more likely to have metal pool stain problems, and regular testing for metals is suggested. Metals may also be introduced into the pool when the pool pH or pool alkalinity levels are not properly maintained, and the water becomes corrosive. Corrosive pool water will eat away at the pool surface and inside of pool plumbing and equipment, releasing metals into the water. The plumbing inside a swimming pool heater, called the “heat exchanger”, is made of copper. If the pool pH and pool Alkalinity levels are not properly maintained, this heat exchanger will quickly corrode and dissolve copper into the pool water causing pool stains.

The first step to eliminating a pool metal stain is to have the pool water tested for metals, and determine how the excess metals were introduced into the water. Take measures to prevent the stain from quickly returning. If there are excessive amounts of metals in your pool water, and stains return again and again after trying each method of treatment, you should partially drain the pool and re-fill with fresh water that has been tested to confirm there is very little or no metals. As with stains caused by something organic, metal pool stains can be easily removed using a natural ascorbic acid based product or diphosphonic acid based product. Another method for removing stains from the floor of a pool is to place ½ pound of pH Reducer in a sock, and drop the sock onto the stain. Position the sock with your telescoping pole, and leave it on the pool stain for 5-10 minutes. If the stain has been removed, place the sock on each affected area for 5-10 minutes.

Please visit www.InTheSwim.com for a complete selection of pool stain removers and quality swimming pool chemicals.

Posted on Jan 31st, 2007

Everyone seems to love a secret — and when the secret is a nook in your outdoor space, all the better. A nook is defined as a private or secluded quiet inner place. Any outside space, from a balcony to an acre estate can benefit from including a nook. Here are points to consider:

Purpose

It doesn’t make any sense to set up a secluded garden reading bench if you never have the time to pick up a book. But maybe you’d like to spend 15 minutes in the morning over coffee with your partner, or want to have a quiet spot for conversing with a special friend. Or maybe your nook will be an intimate dining space for four. Consider what you really want to do with your outside space and then make your nook available for that. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a space that’s lovely to look at but seldom used.

Mystery

Much of the charm of a nook is the secrecy of the space. To achieve this, hide the furnishings at least partially from view. In a garden you might do this with a fence, the wall of an outbuilding or a hedge. On a porch or balcony, consider using fabric panels or drapes, pots and planters or a decorative screen. Lattice screening is especially appropriate to create a nook area on a deck. If your space is small, consider keeping the height of any dividers under 4 ft. That will allow for a feeling of privacy in the nook, yet not completely cut off the visual flow of the space.

Boundaries

Hiding the furnishings from view may also help with another design principle that should be applied in your nook — defining the boundaries of that space. A nook is often closed in on three sides by walls, plantings, trees, arbors, fences and so on.

You can also define the nook’s space by changing the flooring in that area. This might mean a few flagstones in the grass; a different color of stain (or a painted faux rug) on the deck; or a scatter mat on a protected balcony or porch. Consider, too, the ceiling. A leafy bough overhead, a pergola or a ring of mosquito netting can all serve as a roof for the area.

It’s not necessary to have three walls, and a delineated floor and a roof, but at least some of these elements will help define the nook and create the cozy feel of a hideaway. A well-defined point of entry also adds to the welcoming effect.

Comfort

What furnishings your nook will hold depends on your use for it. But whether it’s a reading chair, a conversation bench or a small dining table, be sure the furniture is comfortable to use. Seating should support you properly and tables should be the proper height for relaxing dining. Side tables for coffee or books should be easily accessible. If you’ll be reading in the evening, you’ll want to consider lighting that is restful to your eyes. And have always have lots of cushions and pillows so you can sink into them!

Finishing Touches

Try to include some greenery in your nook if it isn’t there naturally. It will add color, texture and luxury to the space. If you can, include a favorite piece of whimsy that personalizes your nook. Remember that, although the view looking into your nook is half the fun, the view looking out can add immeasurably to the pleasure of the time you spend there. Keep it in mind when you’re situating your space.

Use these principles and create a secret nook that will give unexpected delight to you and your guests alike.

About The Author

Debbie Rodgers, the haven maven, owns and operates Paradise Porch, and is dedicated to helping people create outdoor living spaces that nurture and enrich them. Her latest how-to guide “Attracting Butterflies to Your Home and Garden” is now available on her web site. Visit her at www.paradiseporch.com and get a free report on “Eight easy ways to create privacy in your outdoor space”. Mail to debbie@paradiseporch.com

Posted on Jan 30th, 2007

Cloudy or dull pool water can be related to improper chemical balance, or fine debris suspended in the water. The first step to resolving a cloudy pool water problem is testing the pool water for Comined Chlorine, pH, Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness. The two areas that are most likely to cause cloudy pool water are the pH and the Calcium Hardness. If the pool chemical levels are not within the suggested ranges below, adjust and run the pool filter system for 12-24 hours before re-testing. If the pool was clear before and just became cloudy immediately after adding products to adjust the pool chemical levels (such as pH increaser or decreaser), the pool water may still be adjusting to the changes you’ve made. Filter for 12-24 hours before re-testing, and the water should clear.

  • Free Chlorine: 1-3 ppm
  • pH: 7.2 – 7.6
  • Alkalinity: 80 – 120 ppm
  • Calcium Hardness: 200 – 350 ppm

If all the pool chemical levels test in range, the cloudy pool water is caused by fine debris suspended in the pool water. You should backwash or clean your pool filter following the manufacturer’s instructions, and run the pool filter system continuously for 24 to 48 hours. If the water conditions have not significantly improved you should add a clarifier pool chemical to the pool water to help your pool filter remove the fine debris from the water. Continue filtering for 12 to 24 hours. If the water conditions have not significantly improved you should add a second dose of clarifier, or a stronger clarifier chemical. It is important that you continuously filter the pool water until the water is clear, and closely monitor your pool filter pressure. Backwash or clean the pool filter as needed, following the pool filter manufacturer’s instructions.

Please visit www.InTheSwim.com for a complete selection of pool water clarifiers and quality pool chemicals.

Posted on Jan 30th, 2007

Landscape lighting can add a beautiful quality to any home. There are many choices available to someone who is considering it. Landscape lighting, and any outdoor lighting, can help protect a home as well as keep people from stumbling in the yard. Mainly, people purchase landscape lighting to enhance the appearance of their yard or landscaping.

There are many types of landscape lighting. You can purchase low voltage landscape lighting is recommended if you are interested in conserving energy. Another option to conserving energy is solar landscape lighting. Solar, or from the sun, is powered from the suns rays. It stores energy during the day while the sun is out and then, at night, when it is dark, they are lit using this saved energy. They give off a faint glow that really can light up a little area or large area. These types of outdoor landscape lighting can be great ways to light your yard cost efficiently.

If you are considering doing work on your landscaping, consider landscape lighting design. Designing a beautifully light yard can be tough work, but there are professionals that can help you. For example, something that can be done is light a walkway to the front steps to your home or line the driveway with lights from the street to your garage. Maybe you would prefer to focus your lights on a single bush or tree that is special in some way or to shine on a flag.

When considering landscape lighting, ensure that you think of safety first. Consider speaking with a professional to help you design what you would like your yard to look like. Consider as well using energy efficient landscape lighting such as solar or low voltage. Landscape lighting can add beauty and charm to a home when it is done properly and safely.

About The Author

Mike Yeager, Publisher

http://www.a1-lighting-4u.com/

mjy610@hotmail.com

Posted on Jan 29th, 2007

  • Pool pH & Pool Alkalinity

The pH and Alkalinity levels of swimming pool water affect many areas of the swimming pool and must be kept at the correct levels if you expect to successfully maintain your swimming pool. The Alkalinity of pool water acts as a buffer for the pH, and helps prevent the pool pH level from fluctuating. The Alkalinity should be maintained at 80 - 120 ppm. The pH is the measure of the acidity of the swimming pool water, and the pH level should be maintained at 7.2 - 7.6 ppm. The pH of pool water is somewhat sensitive, but easily controlled if the Alkalinity is kept in range. All basic pool test kits should read the pH and Alkalinity level of pool water, and these levels are easily adjusted with common water balancing pool chemicals. If the pool pH level is not kept in range pool water may irritate the skin and eyes of swimmers, corrode the pool surface and inside of the pool equipment and make it very hard to maintain the chlorine level of the swimming pool.

  • Pool Chlorine Stabilizer
  • The chemical name of pool “Stabilizer” is Cyanuric Acid and it is referred to by either title. The Stabilizer level of swimming pool water must be maintained at 30-50 ppm. The Stabilizer level is important, but is typically only tested at the beginning of the swimming season when a pool is opened. The Stabilizer in swimming pool water partially surrounds the chlorine on a molecular level, to protect the chlorine and prevent the chlorine from being quickly burned off and used up by the sun.

    The symptoms of having too much Stabilizer or too little stabilizer in your pool water are very similar, and if you experience problems maintaining a chlorine level when all other chemical levels are properly balanced the stabilizer level should be tested. If the Stabilizer level tests lower than 30 ppm it will be difficult to maintain a chlorine level, because any chlorine added to your swimming pool will quickly evaporate and burn off in direct sunlight. If the Stabilizer level tests above 50 ppm it will also be difficult to maintain a chlorine level. Rather than partially surrounding the chlorine in your pool water to protect the chlorine, too much stabilizer will completely surround the chlorine making it inactive. In this state the chlorine is unable to combine with bacteria and harmful contaminants to sanitize your swimming pool.

    Stabilizer can be added to a swimming pool if necessary to raise the level, however once Stabilizer is present in pool water it cannot be easily removed. To reduce the amount of Stabilizer in a swimming pool the water must be diluted by partially draining the pool and re-filling with fresh water. 25% of the pool water should be drained and replaced with fresh water. The pool should be circulated for 12-24 hours, and the Stabilizer level should be tested again. This process should be repeated until the Stabilizer level is within range.

    The chlorine tablets and granular chlorine used to sanitize a swimming pool on a daily basis is a pre-stabilized form of chlorine. This means that the chlorine contains a small amount of stabilizer, and as chlorine is added to the pool a very small amount of Stabilizer is also added to help maintain the level. This small amount of Stabilizer constantly added with pool chlorine does not cause a problem in outdoor swimming pools because water is splashed out or evaporates, and gets replaced with fresh water to dilute the Stabilizer. This pre-stabilized form of chlorine cannot be used in indoor swimming pools, because much less water evaporation occurs and the stabilizer level will slowly buildup. Indoor swimming pool owners need to use an un-stabilized form of chlorine.

  • Calcium Hardness
  • The calcium hardness of swimming pool water refers to the amount of the mineral calcium present in the pool water. The calcium hardness should be maintained at 80-150 ppm in a pool with a vinyl liner, or 150-200 ppm in a concrete or plaster finish pool. Low levels of calcium hardness can lead to corrosive water conditions, which may damage the pool surface, pool equipment and pool plumbing. If the water in a plaster or masonry finish pool becomes corrosive, the water will absorb calcium from the pool walls and floor by eating away at the pool surface until the hardness level nears 150 ppm. The calcium hardness level can be easily raised using a Calcium Hardness Increaser available from most pool supply dealers.

    High levels of calcium hardness may lead to cloudy pool water and “scaling”. Scaling is most visible around the water line of a swimming pool as a white chalky deposit, but also forms inside pool equipment and pool plumbing. A pool Calcium Hardness Reducer chemical is available from most pool supply companies to lower the hardness to the desired range for your pool. You may also partially drain and refill a swimming pool with fresh water, which has a lower concentration of Calcium.

    Calcium is present in the water used to fill the pool and in the pool chemicals used to treat the water. The pool chemical that adds the most calcium to pool water is standard chlorine pool shock. If you find that your calcium hardness level is too high, read the label of the pool shock you’ve been using and you will likely find that the active ingredient is calcium hypochlorite. Each time this pool shock is added to the pool water, calcium is added to the water. To prevent this problem begin using Chlorine-Free Pool Shock on a regular basis, instead of standard chlorine pool shock (Calcium Hypochlorite). The active ingredient in chlorine-free pool shock is Potassium Monopersulfate, which does the same job of oxidizing bacteria and harmful organics but does not contain any calcium. If you choose to switch to chlorine-free shock you should always still keep the standard chlorine pool shock on hand, because it is the only pool chemical capable of killing algae.

    Please visit www.InTheSwim.com for a complete selection of quality pool chemicals and swimming pool supplies.

    Posted on Jan 29th, 2007

    There’s something magical about sleeping outside, drinking in the night sounds of crickets, frogs and wind chimes, watching fireflies and stars, and feeling the cool night breeze. You’ll find children giggling long past their bedtime from sheer excitement.

    A treat for adults and children alike, sleeping outdoors has long been a part of camping tradition, but many adults also have fond memories of childhood nights in their parents’ or grandparents’ sleeping porch.

    The cover story of Architectural Digest’s October 2003 issue featured a visit to the Montana ranch of Dennis Quaid where he has built a magnificent home that includes a wraparound Pennsylvania bluestone porch and a tree house for his son Jack. In addition, the actor "requested specially" a sleeping porch adjacent to the veranda.

    In doing so, he joins the ranks of such luminaries as former U.S. first lady Eleanor Roosevelt, author Jack London and baseball legend Babe Ruth, all of whom enjoyed slumbering in screened-in rooms.

    A sleeping porch has been defined as a well-ventilated, usually screened, porch used as occasional sleeping quarters. Before the advent of air-conditioning, families often created an area on outdoor porches where children would sleep during the hot summer nights. Sleeping porches were, more often than not, on a home’s second storey, frequently above a ground-level porch.

    It was during the Arts and Crafts movement of the early twentieth century that sleeping porches really gained public favor. Arts and Crafts architects often designed homes without abrupt divisions between inside and out, and sleeping porches provided an ideal transition space.

    Unfortunately, modern houses don’t often sport open-air sleeping quarters and our culture is poorer for it. Few of life’s experiences speak of summery comfort as a sleeping porch does, and one is never out of touch with one’s surroundings in the neighborhood when sleeping outside.

    Happily, it’s relatively easy to create a secure, comfortable place that makes outdoor sleeping a real joy again. If you can, choose a porch or balcony on a side of your house that is protected from the weather, or add a simple framework on a deck. A leak-proof roof with extended eaves is critical and helps keep inclement weather from blowing in directly onto the occupants.

    If security is an issue, you’ll feel safer in a second storey room. Privacy is easier to achieve on the side or back of a house, but even a room on the front of your house can be hidden from view of passers-by with the installation of matchstick roll-up blinds or fabric drapes.

    The room should be screened in to protect sleepers from mosquitoes and other night-time insects. You can install window-height screens, or make entire screened walls of floor to ceiling panels. If you’d like to extend the use of the area beyond the warmest months, you’ll want to install moveable windows or walls. These will also allow the room’s occupants to better control the amount of outdoors that comes in — a desirable feature during inclement weather.

    You can furnish a sleeping porch with as many creature comforts as you desire, keeping in mind whatever exposure to the elements the pieces will have. Ceiling or floor fans will aid the night breezes. Bedside tables will provide a place for a book and reading glasses, or a cold drink. If you want to use the room during the day as a living area, use day beds, couches or chaises that serve the dual purpose of seating by day and sleeping space by night. Or use fold-up cots or roll-away beds. Kids will even enjoy sleeping bags on the floor.

    Whether used for daytime catnapping or a full night’s rest, sleeping porches can give you a chance to enjoy summer weather to the fullest, and experience some of life’s pleasant, peaceful moments.

    About The Author

    Debbie Rodgers, the haven maven, owns and operates Paradise Porch, and is dedicated to helping people create outdoor living spaces that nurture and enrich them. Her latest how-to guide “Attracting Butterflies to Your Home and Garden” is now available on her web site. Visit her at www.paradiseporch.com and get a free report on “Eight easy ways to create privacy in your outdoor space”. Mail to debbie@paradiseporch.com

    Posted on Jan 28th, 2007

    Roses have long been a favorite among all types of gardeners, and roses continue to enjoy great popularity today. In addition to their beauty as cut flowers and in bouquets, roses are among the most useful and attractive flowers to grace the landscape of any home.

    As a matter of fact, the exterior of any home can be made more graceful and more inviting through the use of wonderful landscape roses. Choosing the right ones, and ensuring that they compliment the overall style of the home, is very important to the overall success of the landscape.

    Fortunately, the number of ornamental landscape roses make finding them an easy task. The difficulty consists of choosing the right ones from this variety. There are a number of classes of roses whose characteristics make them great for use as landscape ornamentals. For instance, the gardener who wants to grow roses up and over an archway or a trellis may want to use tall growing tea roses. Tea roses are renowned for their nodding blooms, therefore all who pass under the arch would be treated to the beautiful sight of roses in full bloom.

    To accent a wall or other permanent structure, a true climbing rose is often the best choice. True climbing roses can be trained to many different effects, including climbing up the length of the structure, or accenting the tops and sides of a wall or building.

    The Polyantha or modern day Floribunda rose is a great choice for gardeners looking for a vibrant splash of color for the background. These popular varieties of roses have large sprays of blooms, and they are popular choices for providing color in the landscape.

    If roses are to be planted in front of other plants in the landscape, miniature or low growing China roses are a perfect choice. Roses can even be used as hedges, with modern Shrub roses and Rugosa roses being excellent choices.

    Of course, as with any aspect of gardening, color is an important consideration. After all, every gardener’s goal is a garden full of colorful, vibrant and healthy plants. Fortunately, roses come in so many shapes, sizes, textures and colors that there truly is a rose for every gardener.

    The goal of choosing the best color roses for the landscape should be to compliment the color of the surrounding landscape. For instance, a spray of plain white tea roses can be striking against a dark red brick home, or an arrangement of pink roses can be the perfect compliment to a stone or marble entranceway. With so many colors of roses to choose from, it should be easy to find colors that compliment and enhance any decorating scheme.

    One popular trend in the world of landscaping is to use a variety of different plants and flowers in the landscape. Whereas single species landscaping was in vogue a few years ago, most of today’s gardeners like to use a mix of different colors, species and styles of plants. Doing so not only makes for a vibrant garden, but it is thought to enhance the health of the soil as well.

    Fortunately, roses lend themselves well to this mixture, and roses can be a beautiful part of an overall landscape of plants and flowers. In addition, there are roses suitable for a variety of climates. Choosing the best rose varieties for your specific climate should mean fewer pesticides, few disease issues and an overall healthier garden.

    To signup for 7 Great Rose Gardening Tips for free, check out http://www.rosegardeningisfun.learnheaps.com Alternatively, check out the book “The Complete Guide to Growing and Enjoying Your Own Great Rose Garden” at http://www.rosegardening.learnheaps.com to learn more about growing roses.

    Posted on Jan 28th, 2007

    The design of your garden has an amazing affect on your family’s health and well-being. Here is how you can create harmony in your garden—which is considered a living entity—and bring peace and happiness within your home.

    Vastu Shastra is an environmental science written about some 7,000 – 10,000 years ago in India by rishis, or men of great wisdom. They observed the workings of Nature and recorded how different rays of the sun, the magnetic poles, the makeup of the land, soil, slope, structures, etc. affected all living things. It is the oldest recorded architectural treatise known to man and it is from this science that some of the world’s most enduring structures have been created.

    According to the science of Vastu Shastra, all five elements (earth, water, fire, air and space) need to be in harmony. When a seed is planted, it requires that all five elements be balanced for a seed to germinate, sprout and become a strong, healthy plant. The disproportion of any one element— whether it is the quality of the earth (soil ph), the amount and quality of water, wind (air), sun (fire), or the amount of space it is planted in—will inhibit its growth. In this way a wise gardener sets up a balanced environment for his plants to grow free from disease and stress.

    Briefly, each area of your garden is associated with one of the five elements. The earth element is associated with the southwest area of your garden and creates a sustaining and grounding force. In the northeast, the water element is at home. This element allows plants to flourish. The fire element in the southeast supports disease-free plants. The northwest is related to the air element encouraging cross-pollination. The space element is associated with the central area of your garden, enhancing the flow of beneficial influences that nourishes the other elements. Positive magnetic energies coming from the north and the positive solar energies coming from the east promote harmony and balance.

    Here are five great steps you can use to bring the five elements into balance within your garden and make it a sanctuary that is not only beautiful to look and wonderful to spend time in, but will actually have an empowering affect on the health and well-being of you and your family.

    1. Build up the southwest area of your garden to produce the stabilizing force of the earth element. You can do this with a rock garden, tall trees and even a stone statue. This will help to collect and hold the positive solar and magnetic energies coming from the east and north. Since yellow is the color associated with the southwest, choose daffodils, roses or wisteria to accentuate this area. This is also a good place for a storage or tool shed.

    2. Represent the water element by using low plantings in the northeast that will allow the flow of positive solar energy. Add a fountain or reflection pool or pond in this area to reflect this beneficial energy throughout the garden. Herbs, white pansies or geraniums can be used as accents.

    3. Add a barbeque or a fire pit in the southeast as your fire element. Red symbolizes this direction so plant tulips, geraniums and dahlias here.

    4. Use wind chimes to balance the air element in the northwest. Since blue is the color of this area, plant bluebells, forget-me-nots and iris to enhance the influences coming from this direction.

    5. Represent the space element by an open area in the middle of you garden. It can either be a patio or grass. Finally, by keeping your garden neat and tidy you will be maintaining balance and attracting the positive influence of each of the directions.

    A well-designed and tended garden, using the principles of Vastu Shastra, will benefit you and all the members of your family for years to come. By reconnecting with the natural balance inherent in the environment, you will encourage better personal health, improve the quality of relationships and enhance well-being.

    About The Author

    Michael and Robin Mastro’s synergistic approach successfully assists people in living in peace and harmony with themselves and others, and in creating balanced lives filled with unlimited possibilities. Visit us at www.VastuCreations.com

    Posted on Jan 27th, 2007

    If you have designed your garden in such a way that you have areas of paving or gravel, you may want to liven these up with some well-planted containers. Equally, if your garden is very small, some strategically placed pots full of colourful flowers may be what you need.

    Choosing Your Containers

    • Pots are an obvious place to start. They come in all shapes and sizes, glazed, terracotta, hand-painted, stone (real or fake), plaster - you name it. If you intend to leave your pots outside all winter and you live in a cold climate, don’t forget they must be frost resistant. There’s no point buying hand-painted containers in Spain then expecting them to survive a winter in Scotland!

  • Troughs look good against a straight wall but you need to choose your planting carefully because I’ve found that many plants quickly become pot bound in a trough. For example, in a trough 24inches (60 cms) long, I have just ONE verbena which is doing very well but it’s foliage reaches to each end and I originally thought that the trough would take at least three plants.
  • Wooden containers. You can buy these or make them yourself if you have the skill and you can add a trellis for something to climb up the centre. You can use small split logs for a rustic effect or normal wooden planks for something a little more formal. Don’t forget to leave drainage holes. The wood will last longer if you apply a wood preservative and line your container with plastic. Many wood preservers are coloured these days so your container could be blue or green or whatever you like. The easiest to construct is obviously square, but if you’re a little more adventurous, you could try octagonal or triangular. Divided containers are great for growing herbs.
  • Hanging baskets, wall hanging half baskets or pots or hanging pouches are lovely for trailing plants and can create quite a show in summer.
  • Basket-shaped or amphora-shaped pots look great but are quite hard to plant and maintain.
  • If you have a talent for construction, you could build your own pots or raised beds with bricks or decorative blocks.
  • Planting Your Containers

    There are so many different plants suitable for container gardening that I would need a complete book to name them all. Suffice to say that a small shrub will grow ok in a large pot but won’t want to share will a stack of other things. Annuals are great for containers but will need to have the spent flowers removed to encourage further blooming. Herbs and alpines are good too but be careful of the sun/shade needed. Be careful also of herbs like mint which can take over a whole flower bed, never mind a pot, left to its own devices.

    Unlike, traditional borders, container plants are planted very close together so you need to bear a number of things in mind.

    • Buy proprietary compost. Garden borders can, to an extent, obtain nutrients from the soil itself plus leaf mulch and other naturally-occurring organic matter. Containers cannot so buy the best compost you can afford.

  • Container plants need a whole lot more water than those in beds. Don’t think that just because it rained all day, much moisture will have penetrated the foliage - it probably won’t. In the height of summer, hanging baskets and the like (unless they have a water reservoir) will probably need watering twice a day. So you have a couple of choices; set up an irrigation system for your pots (optimum but pricey) or add a moisture retaining product to your compost (you will still need to water once a day). These are available at garden centres and take the form of a powder which you hydrate into a gel or water retaining balls which look like polystyrene, either of which you mix with the compost.
  • You will need to feed container plants more often. You can choose a compost which has already had sufficient nutrients added to last a season which is a good start for annuals. You can also buy slow-release pellets which you mix into the compost in the dosage recommended by the manufacturer. The alternative is to apply a liquid feed once or twice every two weeks throughout the growing season.
  • OK, so you have your container and you’ve mixed the correct amount of water retention medium and feed into your compost as required, now for the planting.
  • Try to design the planting on paper or in your minds eye before you start. Remember that trailing plants such as balcony geraniums or surfinia petunias need to be planted around the edge of the container.
  • If you’re using baskets, line them with moss and/or a plastic liner. Fill one third with compost, plant the first “layer” of plants which will poke out of the sides of the basket, add the second third and finish with the top “layer”. If you’re using tubs, don’t forget the perspective - tall at the back or side against a wall or fence and smaller at the front.
  • Groups of pots look good together, particularly if they’re colour co-ordinated and the addition of a few well-placed pebbles or coloured ornaments completes the effect.
  • All you need now to enjoy your container garden is a strategically placed table and chairs and a nice chilled glass of white wine!

    Michael Russell
    Your Independent guide to Gardening

    Posted on Jan 27th, 2007

    Pesticides are toxic and, while often effective against pests, can be dangerous for your family and pets. Outdoors, sprayed pesticides might drift on a breeze and dust your vegetable garden or your neighbor’s yard. Indoors, pesticides can linger in the air, exposing the family to harmful chemicals. For these reasons, many people are turning to nontoxic pest control methods.

    Prevention is the best way to control pests, but there are times when even the most thorough preventative measures will not save you from intruders, so this article discusses both preventative pest control methods and nontoxic pest control products.

    Preventative Pest Control Methods

    Sanitation:

    As they say, cleanliness is next to godliness. And it keeps pests out, too. Keeping your home clean is the most effective pest control method. If you don’t leave food or dirty dishes lying around the house, animals and insects won’t be attracted to the smell. Sweep and vacuum regularly. Remember, just because you can’t see crumbs doesn’t mean they don’t exist. Clean inside pantries and cabinets cabinets, under and around the stove and refrigerator at least once a year.

    Screens:

    This may seem obvious, but screens on doors and windows are a simple and relatively cheap way to keep insects out of the house. Also, screens on crawlspaces keep rodents from obtaining easy access routes into the house.

    Caulking:

    By caulking cracks in your house, you can minimize places for insects to hide and nest. Target bathrooms and the kitchen, especially doors and windows.

    Nontoxic Pest Control Products

    Traps:

    There are many kinds of traps available that target many kinds of pests. Some examples are sticky traps for cockroaches, glueboards for mice, flypaper, bug zappers, and traps specifically for rats, gophers, or moles. You can usually pick up traps at your local Home and Garden store.

    Pheromones:

    Pheromones, essentially insect scent hormones, can be used in traps as bait. By emitting the scent of the female insect, pheromones can be used to lure males into a trap, where they are caught in a sticky glue. Insects are only attracted by pheromones emitted by their own kind, so you need to know exactly what kind of insects you’re trying to eliminate and plan accordingly.

    Biological Control:

    Biological control is more often used in agriculture but can sometimes be used in home and garden situations as well. Basically it means using desirable organisms to eliminate undesirable organisms. For instance, planting certain plants in your garden can deter certain pests. For example, spearmint repels ants. Garlic repels Japanese Beetles. Indoors, spiders eat fruit flies and houseflies, so it may be worth leaving some of those webs around.

    Repellents:

    There are nontoxic repellents available for pest control. Mosquito repellents are the most popular, but if you look around, you can find repellents that target other pests. Some herbs, like eucalyptus and wormwood, are known for repelling animals and insects.

    About The Author

    TC Thorn writes for http://www.pestinformation.com/ where you can find more pest control information.

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