Archive for June, 2006

Posted on Jun 30th, 2006

Selecting a Patio Cover Design is a personal choice. If an architect designed the patio then the cover has to be of appropriate quality and custom made. But if the patio has been done by you, then decide on a cover that is easily fixed and durable. The neighbor’s Patio Cover does look good but it might be out of budget or would not match with house layout and usage. The patio could be for general use or a utility room to place a grill, clothes hanger, a table and few chairs; for entertaining purposes; a hobby or recreation room or an all weather living area for you and family pets.

Consult friends and magazines and do not go by availability. Designs are plentiful, from colored or striped awnings for partial covers, patio umbrellas for limited area cover, or solid aluminum or wood patio covers for complete protection against sun and rain. The wood or aluminum wood Patio Cover could be practical and fashionable and is available in a lattice or dome-shaped design. These covers are made of the highest quality material and do not twist, rot, warp or decay. Wood is being replaced with aluminum as it is maintenance-free, providing protection from the sun and rain for extended periods. Solar design patio covers are ideal in areas with plenty of sunlight. These covers, along with offering shade, produce clean and environmentally friendly electricity.

Selecting a Patio Cover Design also depends on the décor and shape of structure supporting it. A solid cover design is a good choice if you want to block out sun and rain or do not want to cover or remove outdoor items. In this case, an alternate would be to cover a portion of the patio with a solid roof and other half with lattice design. Another Patio Cover Design is pergola, which complements an attractive backyard. One can create a relaxing outdoor atmosphere with a pergola structure either attached to the house or free standing. The angled slats give an airy feeling and at same time block sun to provide comfortable shade.

If you are a practical person then select a gable Patio Cover framed with aluminum rafters with no visible fastening system or ugly screws. If you really want to make full use of the patio in rain and sunshine then have a clear canopy made with indestructible polycarbonate with aluminum frames that will not rust. The canopy is available in clear and bronze tints.

Patio Covers provides detailed information about patio covers, how to build a patio cover, lattice patio covers, patio chair covers and more. Patio Covers is the sister site of Stone Garden Bench.

Posted on Jun 30th, 2006

Wooden Garden Furniture can be the ideal solution to various seating problems in your garden. You can add new seating areas to your garden by perhaps turning a path into a destination for a sit down or consider adding a few pieces of wooden garden furniture to less frequented corners of the garden.

Your garden may be a coastal beach or you have a garden naturalistic wooded landscape, you can easily find some pieces that add the perfect touch to your garden, since wooden garden furniture can suit just about any style.

For example, rustic wooden furniture can add just the right touch to your woodland garden. It is possible to get benches, tables, and seats that are often made entirely from who tree trunks that still have bark on them. Other pieces are a combination of pinewood and tree branches. This style of wooden garden furniture has a natural handcrafted look that makes them an excellent addition to any garden.

A classic combination for coastal gardens is an Adirondack chairs with a matching side table and footstool. These chairs are ideal for a decking area or patio, particularly when they are painted in bright primary colours. They are very comfortable to sit in and the wide arms of the chairs are ideal for holding a glass of something.

A traditional cottage garden makes the ideal setting for the equally traditional wooden bench. Also, a wooden sun lounger will also suit a cottage garden with the classical look. You could than add a wooden table and a few chairs to your patio so that you and your guests can enjoy dinner outdoors. However, make sure you have a parasol for the unpredictable British summers whether to protect from the sun or the rain.

A particularly versatile piece of wooden garden furniture is the wooden picnic table. This can be used in a number of gardens or situations such as a landscaped garden or children’s play area. Remember to add children’s wooden furniture, such as table and chairs to the garden so that your children can enjoy the surroundings.

Once you have purchased your wooden furniture you should make sure that you maintain it correctly by applying a protective finish. This will keep it from deteriorating from sun and rain exposure. There are several good alternatives here such as exterior wood stain, acrylic latex paint or water repellent preservative are all good choices.

Given good care and attention your wooden garden furniture will give you a great deal of pleasure for many years.

Matthew Anthony contributes to several garden and landscape sites such as wooden garden furniture and hammocks.

Posted on Jun 29th, 2006

If willing to experiment and build a Patio Cover, hammer out questions as to why you need a Patio Cover, for what purpose, whether it would be painted or made with wood, prefabricated aluminum or PVC, and if permission is required from state or city authorities. Remember that a patio is an extension of the house, generally not more than 12 feet and single-storied. The patio can be fully covered or have no cover. No special skills are required for building a Patio Cover except co-coordinating your patience, dimension of area, number of wood or aluminum panels and material required.

Begin with the necessary spade work according to weather conditions, area and usage of patio. The next step is selecting material from a comprehensive range, including polycarb panels for high summer or winter temperatures, vinyl opaque all weather conditions, vinyl translucent and clear panels suitable for use in milder weather conditions, aluminum pan roof that is cool, durable and requiring little maintenance, or insulated foam panels providing insulation for a strong low-maintenance roof. The panels should fit and install easily, and offer design flexibility. Check if the gutter system is accessible for cleaning whether it is w-pan gutter, roll form gutter or extruded gutter and valance.

For that professional Patio Cover you would need appropriate tools; you can order a complete tool kit or purchase one. The tools required would be a 3/8"" drill bit, hack saw or electric jig saw with fine-toothed blade for metal, a caulking gun, measuring tape, screwdriver, hammer, metal snips, socket and shank, crescent wrench, level, carpenter’s square, ladders, heavy duty pencils, masonry and nuts and bolts. If the patio is attached to the house then the existing support system will help cover to fit easily. For a free-standing patio the cover will have to be fitted on all four sides, depending on shape. The building instructions will guide you step by step.

Patio Covers provides detailed information about patio covers, how to build a patio cover, lattice patio covers, patio chair covers and more. Patio Covers is the sister site of Stone Garden Bench.

Posted on Jun 29th, 2006

For best health, it is important to keep your environment as chemical free as possible. With better weather coming up, consider this:

Many people do not realize that using pesticides and weed killers on lawns can cause health problems for your children and animals, as they often are on the lawn daily in the summer.

Some pesticide studies have raised concerns about the connection between pesticide exposure and childhood brain cancer and leukemia. Also impaired development of the reproductive system and neurological and developmental problems.

Both children and pet’s body composition is smaller for the amount of chemical they are exposed to, so the health threat is bigger for them. Of course, it is not good for you as an adult, either.

For a safe alternative to weed killers, try vinegar. Yes, the vinegar you have sitting in your kitchen cupboard.

You can use straight household vinegar and put it in a spray bottle, and spray that on the weeds you find in your yard and garden. You could also add a little dish soap to the vinegar, which will help the mixture to stick to the weeds.

Vinegar mix will not get the roots, so it is best to spray on the weeds before they are two weeks old for best effect.

Please remember that the vinegar will kill or injure what it comes in contact with. So be careful with getting it on the grass or other plants that you want to keep.

If the weeds are not young, you may want to purchase one of those tools that are advertised that you poke into the ground and pop the whole weed out. Most of the ads I have seen show the person being able to pop the weed out without bending over or getting on their knees.

By eliminating weed killer you may be preventing health problems for your self and your loved ones in the years to come. It is certainly worth the few minutes it takes to mix up the solution don’t you think?

Article written by Jeannie Crabtree C.Ac. Jeannie publishes a newsletter in which she shares Nutrition tips and research.You can get your tips started by going to http://www.health-doc.com

Posted on Jun 28th, 2006

An amaryllis grows from large bulbs. In fact, the bigger the bulb, the larger the flower. Always buy a names variety.

The Growers Exchange carries the following:

- Appleblossom – Light pink and white striped

- Christmas Gift - White

- Oscar – Red

- Byon – Salmon

- Dwarf Amaryllis

o Picotee – White with fine red edge

o Pamela – Brilliant Red

- Extra Large Bulbs

o Christmas Gift – White

o Liberty

POTTING : An amaryllis bulb should fit snugly into its pot, therefore choose which pot will allow a 1” margin around the bulb. Layer the bottom of the pot with ½ “ of gravel, and the bulb should be ½ way out of the soil. Use a good commercial potting soil, and make sure to firm the soil around the roots of the bulb. Water the soil well, and allow it to drain. Do not water the bulb again until you see the first signs of growth. This will vary from within a few days to a few months. The first sign will be a flower bud, and once this is evident, begin a routine of:

- constantly moist soil

- mild temperatures (nights in the 60’s)

- sunshine

The blooms should last for about one month.

AFTER-CARE: If you want to ensure a healthy, blooming plant next ear, it is important to take care of your amaryllis after the show. Keep the plant in the sun and feed and water while the foliage grows. As the leaves turn yellow, cut them close to the top of the bulb. Stop water and food and give them a month or so of rest. To promote growth, wash away 1” of the old soil and give your bulb a new batch of top soil with ½ tsp. of bone meal.

In 1985, Briscoe White opened The Growers Exchange in an abandoned Texaco station on a busy urban street corner in Richmond, Virginia. The facility has grown over the years, and is now 5 distinct growing environments with 5 acres under cover. Briscoe has over 25 years of gardening experience. For further information on flower gardening products or gardening tips please contact Briscoe White at bwhite@thegrowersexchange.com

Posted on Jun 28th, 2006

Building your own water works system is quite simple and can be fun, if you know how to follow instructions. This particular type of system is best suited for water loving plants such as lettuce.

Only a few items are required to get you up and running in no time. The things you will need to build a water works hydroponics system are listed below.

Required items
1. External pump
2. Air line/tubing
3. Air stones
4. Water proof bin, bucket, fish tank to use as a reservoir
5. StyroFoam
6. Mesh Pots
7. Growing medium - Rockwool, Grow rocks, et
8. Hydroponics nutrients - (Grow formula, Bloom formula, Supplements, Ph)

Required tools
1. Black spray paint, paint - * Only required if reservoir is transparent
2. Sharp object - Knife, box cutter, scissors (This is not a task for minors - Get help from an adult)

Getting started
1. Find a container to use as a reservoir such as a fish tank or a bin/bucket of some sort. The reservoir should be painted black if it is not light proof. Allowing light to enter the reservoir will promote the growth of algae. It is a good idea to use a reservoir that is the same dimensions (length x width) from top to bottom (Example: Top: 36"x20" Bottom: 36"x20").

If possible, use a fish tank or similar container as your reservoir. Spray paint tank (if translucent) to black and let dry. Using se a knife or sharp object, score a line on the tank (scratch off some paint in a straight line from top to bottom) which will be your water level meter (Allow you to see how much water is in reservoir). Creating this line, however, is not necessary as you can determine how much water is in the reservoir simply by see how far down the floater (StyroFoam) has sunk. Adding the line gives a more accurate and convenient view of the nutrient solution level.

2. Use a tape measure to get the length and width of your reservoir. Measure from inside of the reservoir from one end to the other. Once you have the dimensions, cut the StyroFoam 1/4" (inch) smaller than the size of the reservoir. For example, if your dimensions are 36" in length and 20" in width you should cut the StyroFoam to 35 3/4" x 19 3/4". The StyroFoam should fix nicely, with just enough room to adjust to water level changes.

lf the reservoir tapers off at the bottom (the bottom is smaller in dimension than the top) the floater (StyroFoam) should be 2"-4" smaller than the reservoir, or more if necessary.

3. Do not place StyroFoam in reservoir yet! First, you need to cut the holes for the net pots. Put the net pots on the StyroFoam where you want to place each plant. Using a pen or pencil, trace around the bottom of the net pots. Use a sharp tool such as a knife or box cutter to follow the trace lines and cut the holes for pots. (KIDS!!! Get help from an adult). On one end of the StyroFoam (any end), cut a small hole for the air line to run into the reservoir.

4. The amount of plants you can grow will depend on the size of the garden you build and the types of crops you grow. Remember to space plants appropriately so the each receive ample amounts of light.

5. The pump you choose must be strong enough to provide enough oxygen to sustain plants. Ask for a help choosing a pump at your local hydroponics supply store. Telling them the size of your reservoir (In gallons - 2, 5, 10 gallons, et) and they should be able to make a recommendation.

Connect the air line to the pump and attach the air stone to the free end. The air line should be long enough to travel from the pump into the bottom of the reservoir or at least float in the middle some where so the oxygen bubbles can get to the roots. It also must be the right size for the pump you choose. Most pumps will come with the correct size air line. To make your best guest, use a one gallon bucked/bottle or any container that you know the capacity and fill the reservoir. Remember to count how much it takes to fill the reservoir and you will know the capacity of your reservoir.

Setting it up
a. Fill reservoir with nutrient solution
b. Place the StyroFoam in tank
c. Run the air line through the designated hole/notch.
d. Fill the net pots with growing medium and place one plant in each pot.
e. Put the net pots into the designated holes in StyroFoam.
f. Turn on/plug-in pump and start growing with your fully functional, homemade hydroponics system.

Artifical lighting
If your hydroponics system is for indoor use, you will need to provide artificial lighting for plants to thrive. The size of your garden will determine how much light fixtures and watts you will need for proper coverage. Lighting stores can provide more information on selecting lights. When plants are in growth phase, they benefit more from HID (High Intensity Discharge) lamps. In Bloom, HPS (High Pressure Sodium) increases yield and grow denser, heavier flowers.

Fluorescent light is also an option. However, fluorescent lamps does not offer the same amount of lumens as HID’s or HPS lamps. Fluorescent are good for starters and seedlings and for growers with ventilation problems. Fluorescent also burns much cooler than HID’s and HPS lamps allowing you to place plants closer to the light source without burning tender foliage.

Footnotes:
A homemade hydroponics system like this is not ideal for a large scale production or commercial usage. This particular system plan does not offer a way to conveniently change nutrient solution. An extra container would be required to hold the floater while you change the solution.

This article courtesy of http://www.hydroponicsearch.com - Hydroponics search engine and community.

Posted on Jun 27th, 2006

Don’t forget the birds this winter. It is cold, and not every species has flown south. In fact, your yard is full of birds foraging constantly to survive the winter months. You can really help by keeping feeders constantly full, and have the benefit of a yard full. I keep a few close to windows, and am constantly entertained. A few things to keep in mind about feeding birds:

Place a new feeder near an old one. Keep both full unti the birds become used to the new one, and begin to feed from it.

It is important to keep the feeders clean. In fact, it is vital to the health of the birds. Old seed which has rotted can make the birds sick. Every 3 – 4 weekds, allow the feeder to empy, shake out any excess seed and then rinse with warm water and mild soap.

Place feeders 6 – 7 feet from any tree or railing to keep the squirrels away. I don’t take my own advice, but I have made peace with the squirrels long ago. Gracie, my 11 year old mutt, spends her day working the squirrel population, and that helps!

Feeders should go up on Labor Day and taken down in June. There should be enough natural food available to sustain the birds during those months.

Birds do need water all year round, and a bird bath is a welcome treat in the hot months, and water during a freeze is vital.

In 1985, Briscoe White opened The Growers Exchange in an abandoned Texaco station on a busy urban street corner in Richmond, Virginia. The facility has grown over the years, and is now 5 distinct growing environments with 5 acres under cover. Briscoe has over 25 years of flower gardening experience. For further information on gardening products or gardening tips please contact Briscoe White at bwhite@thegrowersexchange.com.

Posted on Jun 27th, 2006

Purchased corn, whether on the cob or in a can can’t compare for taste! Sweet corn is easy to grow in the flower and fruit gardening guides home garden with just a little know how and a few corn facts.

Corn needs warm soil temperatures (50° - 65° Fahrenheit) to germinate. Warm temperatures cause sugars in corn to turn into starches and results in loss of sweetness and creamy texture. Sugars also begin converting to starches immediately after harvest.

Sweet corn is divided into three types according to its sweetness: (SU) normal sugary or standard sweet corn, (SE) sugary enhanced, and (Sh2) super sweet.

Standard Sweet Corn (SU)

Normal sugary is the traditional variety of sweet corn. Less sweet than the other types, it will tolerate low temperatures at planting time.

Sugary Enhanced (SE)

(SE) corn is the preferred choice of many of today’s flower and fruit gardening guides home gardeners. Sugary enhanced is sweeter than standard corn and retains sweetness longer than either of the other types. While not as sweet as super sweet, it has a creamier texture and tolerates lower soil temperatures.

Super Sweet

Super sweet (Sh2) kernels differ from the other two types of sweet corn by their shriveled, small appearance. Although the sweetest of the three, (Sh2) needs a soil temperature of at least 65° F to germinate. Another drawback of (Sh2) is that its texture is drier and its sugars more rapidly convert to starch after harvest.

Sow your seed in a very rich garden soil and give it access to ample moisture. Because corn is a high-nitrogen feeder, even the best soils may need to the addition of aged manure or nutrient rich compost to produce an optimum crop.

Plant corn in two or more rows for pollination to be successful. Plant kernels in hills of three, spaced about a foot a part with rows three feet apart. Plant kernels from one to 1 ½ inches deep or ¾ inch deep for super sweet types. After germination, preserve the most robust plant in each hill, discarding any other seedlings that have sprouted.

Water rows well after planting, especially in the case of super sweet kernels, which need to absorb more water to germinate. Keep plants well watered throughout the growing season. Corn needs moisture in order to form tassels and silk and to develop healthy ears.

Cultivate frequently to control weeds, but shallowly so as not to damage stalks or roots.

Corn is ready to harvest when silk becomes dry at the ends, ears feel full, and a thumbnail puncture produces a milky-white substance. The sap from under ripe corn will appear watery. Each stalk should produce one large ear of corn. Many varieties also develop a second, smaller ear. Generally, from the time the silk is visible to harvest is about 20 days.

Watch your crop closely after the first silks appear. This is the “milk stage” which lasts for only about a week. The best corn is always the freshest corn! Grill it, steam it, roast it, microwave it — enjoy it!

Linda is an author of Gardening Tips Tricks and Howto’s of http://www.gardening-guides.com She writes and inspire you to try new ideas from her own experience.

Posted on Jun 26th, 2006

The patio is an extension of the house. With a little bit of enterprise one can transform it into a snug haven with colorful and snazzy Patio Covers, furniture, pool tables, grills, plants and curios reflecting individual styles. The reason being that in the present ambiguous conditions, especially after 9/11, many of us prefer the comfort of home for celebrations or unwinding.

Patios with covers serve another purpose. Very often we are too lazy after a barbeque or a lazy afternoon to stack chairs and tables inside or fold the umbrella. Patio Covers do the work for us and furniture can be left where it is, protected from rain and sun. There is a choice in Patio Covers depending on the natural environment and construction of the house. Wood is preferred by people who want a natural look gelling with landscaping or the interior of the house. Wooden Patio Covers are at a disadvantage when compared with aluminum or acrylic Patio Covers. The latter are maintenance-free and durable with built-in rain gutters, while wood needs to be termite- and water-resistant. Synthetic wood is a substitute with one major flaw. It cannot be used as a structural or support material and has to be covered with real wood beams, increasing the cost of the Patio Cover.

If adventurous and looking for a brighter and more refreshing set-up, select a clear glass or lattice aluminum cover or the dependable acrylic ones. These let in partial sunlight and, unlike concrete or full covers, do not make you feel boxed in.

Fabric in different colors and patterns is another option for a Patio Cover. The selection of Patio Covers is subjective to personal choice and budget. No point in copying the next door neighbors or an advertisement in home magazines. Some enterprising individuals prefer constructing or assembling Patio Covers themselves, or using individual covers for chairs, tables, swings and umbrellas. All one can say is, read instructions carefully as a patio is an aesthetic extension of your house.

Patio Covers provides detailed information about patio covers, how to build a patio cover, lattice patio covers, patio chair covers and more. Patio Covers is the sister site of Stone Garden Bench.

Posted on Jun 26th, 2006

What is xeriscaping? You may have heard of xeriscaping as a way of landscaping in the Southwestern United States. You may picture xeriscaping as a lot of gray gravel and cactus in a hot desert yard. People call that "zero-scaping," and that is not what xeriscaping is. Xeriscaping is a method of gardening and landscaping that will reduce your water use and maintenance requirements by as much as 60 percent. Xeriscaping can be done anywhere by any gardener, and in any yard, with the result being a beautiful, even lush, landscape.

The word "xeriscape" was coined in the early 1980’s by the Denver Water Board when creating their water conservation program. Denver Water trademarked the word in 1983. It comes from combining xeros (Greek for "dry") with landscaping. Thus, it is a water-conservative approach to landscaping. Plants whose growing requirements are appropriate to the local climate are emphasized, and care is taken to avoid wasting water to evaporation and run-off.

There are seven established xeriscaping principles. Applying these principles will help you achieve a beautiful landscape that will save you water and work in the long run.

Principle One - Planning and Designing

When you take the first step towards xeriscaping you must do your research and plan and design on paper first. You can convert your traditional landscape to a xeriscape in steps lasting several years. There are books on the market devoted to waterwise gardening and xeriscaping that you will want to consult.

Principle Two - Soil Improvements

As with a traditional landscape you will probably need to test and improve your soil. Add compost and other amendments in areas where you will be planting. This will help your soil retain moisture.

Principle Three - Appropriate Turf areas

Lawns can use four times as much water as anything else in your landscape. They also require mowing, fertilizing, weeding and other such maintenance. Xeriscaping calls for limited turf areas. You might not want any turf at all in your landscape or you may want just want an oasis where the children can play on a swingset.

Principle Four - Pick Water-thrifty Plants

Choose plants that require less water. This includes flowers, ground covers, trees and shrubs. And, group together plants that have the same water requirements. Using plants that are drought-tolerant and native to your area will also require less water and maintenance.

Principle Five - Efficient Irrigation

Efficient watering means using devices and practices that do not waste water. Installing underground sprinkling systems, drip irrigation systems, soaker hoses, timers and the like are all watersavers when used correctly.

Principle Six - Mulching

There are many types of mulch that can be used instead of ugly gray gravel. Actually rocks, and gravel do come in so many sizes and colors that they can be attractive when used artistically. The reason you use mulch is to reduce moisture loss through evaporation and to inhibit the growth of weeds. Organic mulches such as compost, bark, peat moss, and pine needles can also contribute to the soil as they breakdown.

Principle Seven - Appropriate Maintenance

The final principle is properly maintaining your xeriscape. This means keeping your watering systems in working order and watering only when needed. Keep your weeds in check and reapply mulch if it breaks down.

Now that you have had a brief introduction to xeriscaping maybe you can think of how it can be applied to your landscape. Do you really need that sweeping green lawn in your front yard? Imagine how a large colorful bed full of day lilies could be a real showstopper on your block. It would break up all that water-thirsty lawn and save you water and lawn maintenance for years to come. Now, that doesn’t sound like a desert landscape does it? No, it doesn’t, and it could be the start of your conversion to xeriscape gardening.

Article by Amy Passmore for TheGardeningGuide.com

This article may be reprinted and freely distributed as long as it is not changed and the author’s name and a "live" link to the website accompanies the article.

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