Appearance:

Generally speaking the first most obvious sign of this pest is browning and wilting of the foliage on your birch tree. The larvae cause this discolouration and distortion by feeding that create tunnels within the individual leaves. These tunnels first appear as a greenish colour but quickly turn to a grey, then eventually a brown. These tunnels contain the waste of the larvae and are blackish in colour. This waste is known as frass. The larvae are flat to aid them in their tunneling habits and are a greenish yellow in colouration. They also have four black spots on their underside at the front. By holding the leaves up to a light the eggs and larvae will appear as transparent spots.

Life Cycle:

Birch leaf miner will create 3-4 generations per year. The adult will emerge from the soil in May and June and will deposit their eggs in slits created in the surface of a newly developed leaf. The larvae consume the tissue situated between the upper and lower leaf surface. They will eventually eat their way through to the surface of the leaf and fall to the ground to pupate. The adults emerge again and continue the cycle. They will over-winter below the tree and emerge again in the spring.

Controlling the problem:

An infestation of birch leaf miner generally speaking will not kill a healthy mature tree. By defoliating the host tree they can however weaken it, making it more susceptible to attack by other insects and diseases. If you are using insecticides to control this pest, please be sure to follow all directions on the label before and while applying. By controlling the initial generation of birch leaf miner you can go a long way to minimize the damage caused by additional generations. Use a systemic insecticide before the buds open to prevent this pest from egg laying. You can also apply insecticides as the new leaves emerge.

Paul is a Certified Pesticide Applicator in Alberta, Canada. He has over 15 years experience in the lawn care industry.

For more lawn care information, please visit http://www.fairyring.ca

Tomatoes have always been my favorite garden vegetable to grow and to eat. I have had success with the other standard garden vegetables, such as cucumbers, bell peppers, cauliflower etc. but tomatoes became my specialty over the years.

I start my seeds indoors approximately 5-6 weeks before the last expected frost date. I use a commercially available starting flat that will hold 72 seedlings. I prefer plant the Tomato Park’s Whopper™ Cr Improved, VFFNT Hybrid which can be ordered from Park Seed Co. This is a large, luscious, disease resistant tomato that I have seen grow to excess of 3lbs.+. It makes for an awesome BLT since a slice of one of these beauties will hang off the toast at least one inch or more all the way around!!!!!

For the potting mixture, I use equal parts of a good quality potting soil and vermiculite that makes the soil light enough so that the seeds will not have difficulty sprouting and growing. I know your probably saying to yourself right now, WOW, 72 tomato plants, I don’t need that many, well look at it like this…out of the 72 that you start, some will not develop for whatever reason, and once they are planted, some will die, the birds will get some, the animals will get some and yes, the bugs will get some regardless of how hard your try to keep them out. So out of that 72 plants, you could wind up with just the right number in the end for your garden. Of course it is possible to wind up with 72 very healthy, untouched by animals, disease or bugs, tomato plants, as happened to me one season, then you will have more tomatoes than you can possibly eat, can, sell or give away!!!! But that is a whole ‘nother story!!!

I have grown tomatoes in all types of soil, from rocky, hard packed clay to rich dark loam so loose you could push your arm elbow deep into the soil with no effort. It has been my experience that almost any soil will work with most only requiring minor amendments.

If you need to add amendments to your soil to loosen it, I recommend a mixture of aged sawdust and sand in equal parts. The sand can be obtained in bulk from your local concrete company for a small fee or you can buy it in bags from your local hardware store. One note about the sawdust, DO NOT use fresh sawdust, as this is much to hot due to the nitrogen being released during the breakdown process. Plants placed in this sawdust; even with the mix of sand and soil are much to tender to withstand the high concentration of nitrogen.

If fresh sawdust is all that you can obtain, pile it in one corner of your garden and let it age for new season.

Your local sawmill, if you have one close by, should have a good supply of old sawdust on hand that they will let you load up and haul away for free. If you do not have a sawmill or any type of manufacturing facility close by, such as the Ames Co., that makes wooden handles etc. you can check with your local county extension agent and he or she can tell you where you may acquire the sawdust. Speaking of the county extension agent, when you go to consult with the agent, take along some soil samples from different places in your garden and ask that they be tested for the proper nutrients. This is a free service provided by some counties while others may charge a nominal fee, regardless, you can have the results back in just a few days.

Once you have the sawdust and sand, spread equal parts over your garden until it reaches a depth of about one inch or more depending on the type of soil. Too much and the soil will be too loose and the water will drain away to quickly, not enough and the sun will bake it to a hardpan during the dog days of summer.

Work this mixture into your soil as deep as possible using your rotary tiller or the old fashioned way, by using a spading fork or shovel Once this mixture is worked in properly then it is time to consider what type of fertilizer is needed.

Armed with your soil test results, you will have a good indication of what kind of fertilizer is best for your particular garden. In most cases, a good all purpose fertilizer known as Triple 10 or 10-10-10 will do the job very well. Your soil test results will give specifics of any additional nutrients that you may need and should also include coverage rates.

Once you have completed the fertilizing, give your garden a moderate soaking with your sprinkler or hose nozzle to dissolve and distribute the fertilizer through out the soil.

When I begin to set out the tomatoes I have somewhat of a unique approach, I dig the planting hole, approximately 10-12 inches deep with a post hole digger, which also helps to determine the spacing for each plant ( 2-2 ½ feet apart or about ½ the length of the handle of your post hole digger) I use the post hole digger for several reasons:

1. Its much easier on your back, you don’t have to bend or kneel to dig the hole.

2. The larger and deeper hole means that more of the tomato plant itself can be placed deeper into the ground and the more plant you can actually place in the ground the stronger the plant will be, because every bit of the seedling that is placed underground will develop into the root system, thereby you will have deeper and stronger roots from the very beginning.

3. The loose backfill in the hole allows for the developing root system to get a firm foothold.

After you have gotten all your holes spaced out and dug, go back and sprinkle just a bit of Miracle-Gro into the bottom of each hole then add just a small amount of water to the hole. Gently remove your seedlings from the flat and place it as deep as possible in the hole. I recommend leaving no more than 1 - 2 inches of tomato above ground. Yes, it will take longer for your tomatoes to produce by doing this as compared to setting them out at that same depth they were in the seeding flat, but you will have stronger plants and plants that virtually never need watering because at that depth moisture is pretty much constant unless it is an extremely dry summer. Believe me, if you set your tomatoes out at the flat depth, you will be watering them at least every other day.!!!

The next thing we need to address is the method used to control the sprawling plant. Some people like to place straw down around their tomato plants and let them sprawl across the ground. I believe this opens the door for more pest problems, such as the tomato hornworm. The method I recommend is using concrete reinforcing wire to make your own tomato cages. The wire can be purchased at most any hardware or do it yourself store. The wire has large 6” openings that you can easily pass your hand through when picking time comes. The wire is about 6 ft high which makes a very sturdy cage for even the biggest tomato plant. To make the cages, count off seven of the squares and then, using a cutting torch or a study pair of wire cutters, cutoff the bottom of the seventh square which will give you six 6” spikes that will make the cage as steady as a rock when they are pushed into the ground. I place my cages around the plants as soon as the plants are in the ground. Once you make the cages they will last of years and years to come.

Our last area of concern is pests and diseases, specifically the tomato hornworm and blossom end rot. The tomato hornworm is nasty little creature that will surround and chew through your plant at just below ground level. To prevent this from happening push a very large nail into the ground right next to each tomato plant. This will prevent the hornworm from surrounding your plant and eating through the base.

If you see the end of your tomatoes beginning to rot as they grow, then it is surely a case of blossom end rot, which can be easily stopped from overtaking your entire tomato crop. Go to your local pharmacy and get some potassium chloride, then place two heaping tablespoons into a garden sprayer and fill with water, shake to mix then spray your plants well. Do this weekly until no new end rot appears.

If you follow this guide and use a little TLC you will have some of the largest and best tasting tomatoes one could ever ask for.

You will definitely be the envy of the entire neighborhood!!!

K.D. Wiseman is the owner of DMJ Enterprises and creator of Best Of The Home and DMJ Enterprises. Best Of The Home and DMJ Enterprises are popular home and garden websites featuring products for every corner of your home and garden including Quality Indoor and Outdoor Furniture, Children’s toys, gardening supplies, Plush Pelts and more. Please visit both sites for your entire home and garden needs.

http://www.bestofthehome.com
http://www.dmjenterprises.com

Article Source:http://www.bestofthehome.com

Aphids are an insect with a soft body that utilizes their mouthparts to pierce and suck the sap from plants. These colonies of insects can usually be found on the underside of newly growing terminal growth. If a leaf becomes heavily infested it will appear yellowish and will eventually wilt. This is caused by the colony removing large quantities of the leaf’s sap. Much of the damage caused by aphids is cosmetic, meaning it looks unsightly to the homeowner. Generally speaking a healthy tree or shrub is able to withstand several years of aphid attacks. While consuming the sap of trees and shrubs, aphids produce a liquid, sugary waste product commonly known as "honeydew". If you have ever parked your vehicle under a tree and noticed a sticky residue on it you have experienced this. Sooty mold can also grow on these sugary deposits found on the branches and leaves. This causes them to acquire a blackish discolouration.

THE PROBLEM BEGINS:

Winged aphids or "colonizers" will fly around searching for a suitable host tree or shrub. Once they have found such a plant, they will drop wingless young on the new growth and continue on their way. These nymphs feed voraciously on the sap and increase in size. In 7-10 days they will mature and are capable of producing live young, generally 40-60 young each. The interesting thing about this is that most are born female. This creates a population explosion in no time. An example of this is fewer than 12 colonizers can produce hundreds if not thousands of offspring in just a few weeks. This process continues until the plant can no longer support the population. At this point, new winged aphids are produced and the cycle is repeated.

CONTROLLING APHIDS:

By discovering the aphids early you can minimize the effects they will have on your trees and shrubs. Keep an eye on terminal growth. Examine underneath new leaf growth for groups of aphids. By being vigilant you can usually control theses colonies by hand, either crushing them or pruning. If however, you discover aphids on more than 10% of your plant, you may want to consider using a contact insecticide to control them. As this is an insecticide please be sure to follow the instructions on the label carefully before and when applying them to your plants. For a contact insecticide to work effectively you must actually hit the aphids before control will be successful. Ensure you use an even thorough spray pattern when applying. Concentrate on growing points and protected areas within the plant. If possible spray underneath leaves for effective control.

CULTURAL CONTROLS:

As stated earlier, you may be able to control small populations of aphids by crushing them by hand or by pruning out affected areas. A good rinse with your garden hose will also dislodge some of the colony. Ladybugs and lacewings are also very effective at controlling aphids. These predators will consume large quantities of aphids

Paul is a Certified Pesticide Applicator in Alberta, Canada. He has over 15 years experience in the lawn care industry.

For more lawn care information please visit http://www.fairyring.ca

When you hear the term "Zen Garden" the picture conjured up is of a dry landscape with rocks surrounded by carefully raked gravel which invites you to withdraw from the noise of the world outside and to enter into silent meditation. Some say that zen priests adopted the dry landscape style in the eleventh century as an aid to create a deeper understanding of the zen concepts, but others hold that the Japanese Zen Garden is a myth. They claim that it is a late 20th Century western creation that has nothing to do with the Japanese Garden Tradition and that the dry garden style is not unique to zen temples but can be found associated with many other buildings.

Whatever your view it is undeniable that there is something rather special about this dry landscape style which is generally known as a Zen garden. The main elements consist of rocks representing mountains or islands surrounded by flowing water in the form of sand or gravel.

Recently scientists used computer analysis to study one of the most famous Zen gardens in the world, at the Ryoanji Temple in Kyoto, to discover why it has a calming effect on the hundreds of thousands of visitors who come every year. The researchers found that the seemingly random collection of rocks and moss on this simple gravel rectangle, when viewed from the right position, created the image of a tree in the subconscious mind.

Not all Zen gardens are restricted to dry stones and gravel, but often include plants and mosses as well as shrine lanterns, bridges and water features. A Zen garden should be equally attractive and inviting throughout the year, which is why evergreens play such an important role in their design. Black pines and bamboo, moss and other evergreen ground covers provide seasonal continuity which is always green and alive.

Construction of a Zen garden starts with the selection of suitable rocks. It is important that you find rocks in shapes that appeal to you since these will form the backbone of the design. It may take some time for you to find the right stones and gravels to blend together to form a harmonious picture, but taking time and making careful choices is an important part of transforming simple gardening into an act of "meditation".

Zen gardening means that design, construction, planting and cultivation is all part of the garden itself. A Zen garden is a continuing process in which the creation and maintenance of the design is as much a part of the meditation as contemplation of the completed garden.

Hugh Harris-Evans is the owner of The Garden Supplies Advisor where you will find further articles, gardening tips and product reviews.

http://www.garden-supplies-advisor.com

In this article we’re going to discuss how you can save lots of money on your new home with proper landscaping.

You’ve got your new home in mind. You’ve carefully laid out the plans for how you want it to look. You’re ready to start building. Then you take a look at the lot where your new dream home is going to be and you’re confronted with your worst nightmare. There’s hills every ten feet; trees all over the place; shrubs large enough to cover a small cow and overall the area is a mess.

This is where proper landscaping can save you a lot of money and a lot of frustration.

For starters, trees around your house can affect everything from your heating and cooling bills to the home’s resale value. There are many surveys that place the increased value at around 10 to 15 percent. Trees can produce shade, food, firewood, and overall just a really beautiful scene. They’re also good for attracting birds and wildlife. So don’t be so quick to start chopping all the ones around your lot down. Only remove the ones that you absolutely have to in order to build your home.

So what if there are no trees around your lot? Does that mean you want to start planting some? Maybe. But before you go ahead and start planting it is very important that you choose a species that will best thrive under the local conditions. For example. If you live in an area that is very hot with little rainfall then you want to plant trees that are very drought resistant. In areas that have lots of rainfall you want to plant trees that need lots of water. Trees that don’t can literally drown. If you plant trees that grow naturally in your area you can be pretty sure that you won’t have any problems. If you have any questions about what to plant, consult with a professional.

Also, when deciding to plant trees, the location on your property is very important. Choose spots that have adequate sunlight and make sure the trees are protected from pests. Building a mesh fence around them can keep animals from getting to your trees. Also, try to estimate how big the tree is going to get when full grown. You don’t want to plant them too close to the house or you may have branches ending up sticking through your bedroom window.

It is important to understand that in the early years of a tree’s life it is very vulnerable to just about everything so you have to be careful to water it regularly, especially if you run into a dry spell. Eventually, as the tree grows up, it will be able to take care of itself.

As for the rest of the landscaping do only what needs to be done. If there are hills where you want to build and you prefer level land then go about leveling the area. You still want it to have a natural look so don’t make it as flat as a dance floor. Any shrubs that need to be removed, do so and have them taken away quickly.

By following the simple suggestions above you can make your home building experience an enjoyable one.

——————————————————-
Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to New Homes
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Slugs are one of the most hated of garden pests. You may have spent time carefully planting out your seedlings into the bed, but when you return next morning, you find chewed leaves, the growing points nibbled away and a mass of slimy trails all around. All clear evidence that garden slugs, or sometimes snails, have been enjoying a nocturnal feast at your expense.

Slugs thrive in moist temperate conditions and feed at night when temperatures are greater than 50°F. They love mild winters, wet springs, moist summers, and irrigation. When you look at ways of protecting your plants, the large number of defences and remedies that have been suggested indicates the extent of the problem.

Since slugs need somewhere to hide during the day, the first line of defense is to keep your garden tidy and remove any flat stones, boards, pots or piles of damp plant refuse. Once you have achieved this, here is a list of other methods that you can try:

Barriers. Slugs dislike rough surfaces so sprinkle crushed eggshells, sharp grit, lime or Diatomaceous Earth around the stems of your plants. Copper strips are also an effective barrier since contact produces an electrical charge which slugs dislike. Copper wire shaped into a tight conical spiral with the narrow end buried in the soil is an alternative. In each case make sure that there are no slugs inside the barrier when you put it in place.

Active measures.

Collect by hand and destroy by sprinkling with salt or dunking in a bucket of soapy water. This is best done after dark.

Trap by placing small pieces of board or flat stones near your plants. Each morning check the traps and dispose of all slugs that you find.

Beer trap. Sink a small bowl into the bed and fill with a mixture of beer and water. Slugs are attracted by the smell and will fall in and drown. Some people have found non-alcholic beer to be more effective. Keep the bowl covered to prevent other creatures taking the bait. There is a commercial version called Slug-X which can just be placed on the surface of the soil.

Treats. Place grapefruit peel or old lettuce leaves near the plants you are trying to protect in the hopes that the slugs will be distracted. Another suggestion is to plant marigolds in the bed since slugs love these and so will ignore your favored plants. However others claim that slugs seem to avoid plants with strong-smelling foliage, such as marigolds.

Iron Phosphate granules. These granules have a wheat aroma to attract slugs. After eating them, slugs stop feeding, dry out, and die within a few days. This is a non-toxic product which is available commercially as Sluggo.

Chemical treatments include ammonia. Dilute with an equal quantity of water and spray on soil and leaves - test each plant first by spraying on a small section and leaving for a couple of days. The other chemical is metaldehyde which is sold as slug pellets. This is not recommended since it is harmful to birds and pets.

Other methods.

Encourage your local wildlife to do the job for you. Birds, frogs and toads will all eat slugs. So feed the birds and welcome frogs into your garden pond.

Water your plants in the morning so that the foliage will not stay damp overnight.

If all else fails, change your plants. In general, slugs dislike anything with leaves that are glossy, waxy or hairy so that there is quite a long list of slug-resistant plants that you can choose as an alternative. As with many aspects of gardening, you will often find that choosing plants that are suited to the soil conditions in your garden will produce the best results. If this means growing flowers that that tend to be ignored by slugs, you will have a far easier time than if you have to wage a constant battle to protect plants that are being continually attacked.

Hugh Harris-Evans is the owner of The Garden Supplies Advisor where you will find further articles, gardening tips and product reviews.

http://www.garden-supplies-advisor.com

If you own a house, at some point the need for extra storage space soon becomes evident. Arguably the most common solution is to purchase a storage shed. There are hundreds of styles and options available, but taking the time review these 5 key steps will enable you to make a smarter decision.

1. What is the primary function of the shed? In most cases, storage space is the key requirement, so figure out how much space is needed. A small 4’ x 8’ lean-to style provides sufficient space for small tools, but larger items do require more space. I strongly recommend choosing the largest size that you can afford, which still blends in with your landscape. Remember that most municipalities require building permits for any building over 100 sq. ft.

2. Is the shed going to play a prominent role in your day to day activities? If so, make sure that you choose a style and options that give you good access and provide adequate lighting. Windows and skylights provide plenty of natural light, but it is common to run electricity to the shed. For easy access, make sure that the doors are at least 34” wide, as most lawn mowers will easily pass through.

3. How important is the look of the shed to my property. Remember that anything you erect will either add or impair on your property value. Metal and vinyl are the least expensive options, but these tend to look ordinary. Wood and pre- finished sidings normally add character and value, but are usually more expensive.

4. Consider the grade and accessibility of the location. A level site is the starting point for all shed construction The greater the grade, the more work needs to be done. Typically a grade of 6” or less over the dimension of the shed can be compensated for by using patio stones, especially for smaller units. In areas faced with frost upheaval or poor drainage, it is recommend that at least 6” of topsoil be removed and filled with screening stone (1/2” or smaller gravel is also acceptable).

5. Be considerate to your neighbors! Don’t put up something that belongs in a junkyard beside your neighbor’s manicured backyard. Most municipalities require that storage sheds be 2 ft from the fence or property line, so be sure to check ahead of time to avoid any aggravation. Talk to your neighbors about your intentions – 99% of the time they will appreciate your concern and be very supportive of your project.

The internet is an excellent source for information on the hundreds of suppliers and styles available. If ordering online be sure to read the warranty and returns information carefully as often goods of this nature cannot be returned. Just because a company has a fancy website it does not mean it stands behind its product – try searching for articles or information on the particular company. Most companies offer either pre-cut or pre-fabricated kits delivered to your residence. If choosing a fully installed product, deal with a local company with a fixed location (avoid the ones that set-up at seasonal locations), and again be prudent with your research. I strongly recommend avoiding companies that require more than a 30% deposit – you’ll end up waiting longer than you should. A storage shed is an important purchase – a little research will go a long way in helping making the right decision.

Vic Maia is currently the owner and operator of Garden Shed & Gazebos. English Garden is a family-owned business that has been designing and building Garden Sheds, Gazebos, Cabanas and Bunkies for over 30 years. We are dedicated to providing personalized customer service.

If you have never grown vegetables before the first thing that you need to decide is where to plant them in your garden. Most vegetables need 6-8 hours of sunlight a day although greens can manage with less. Choose a site in an area that will not be shaded by buildings or trees and one that is near to a water supply. You will not want to have to cart water any further than absolutely necessary. Protect the site with a fence to keep out dogs, rabbits and other animals which can damage your crops.

To grow vegetables successfully the soil needs to be fertile, deep, friable and well drained. Unless you are very fortunate your soil is unlikely to meet these criteria, but over a period of time you will be able to increase the fertility of the soil by following good cultivation practices.

The first task is to dig over the whole of your site. Dig to a depth of 8-10 inches and continue working the soil making it loose and friable. Do not dig when the soil is too wet. How do you know? Squeeze together a handful of soil. If it sticks together in a ball and does not readily crumble under slight pressure by the thumb and finger, it is too wet.

The soil will be improved by the addition of organic matter. It helps release nitrogen, minerals, and other nutrients for plant use when it decays. Well-rotted compost or manure can be dug into the soil. Alternatively a mulch of partially rotted straw, compost or crop residue on the soil helps keep the soil surface in good condition, slows water evaporation from the soil, and suppresses weeds.

Before you you start to plant your seeds there is one futher consideration - the layout of your beds. The standard practice has been to plant your crops in rows some eighteen inches apart or just wide enough to allow you room to walk between the rows. This means that every time you walk on the land your soil is being slightly compacted. The alternative is to create a raised or wide bed. In this method you divide your site into a number of beds about four feet wide with a narrow path in between. This allows you to reach the center of the bed from either side without treading on the soil.

If you grow the same crop year after year in the same bed, there is an increased risk of disease infecting your crops. To minimise the risk you should avoid planting crops of the same family in the same soil for three seasons. You can achieve this by having a four bed rotation and moving the crops on to the next bed each year.

When choosing seeds it makes sense to choose disease resistant varieties where these are available. Saving your own seed is not always a good idea for at least two reasons. Firstly because seed saved from plants grown from hybrid seed will not come true, and secondly your home saved seed may have become cross-pollinated from other crops grown on your land.

In the warmer parts of the United States most seeds can be sown directly into the beds. You will have to cultivate the soil to a fine tilth and then sow the seeds at the depth recommended on the packet. In cooler areas, or where you want early crops, seeds will need to be sown in trays or flats indoors. Overhead light, either natural or artificial using flourescent tubes, and warmth is needed to ensure satisfactory germination and growth. Before they can be planted out in the beds, the seedlings have to be hardened off by placing them outside for longer periods each day so that they become accustomed to the outdoor temperature.

Once your crops are all planted out in the beds they will require regular watering, weeding and fertilizing. On average your plants will need one inch of water a week. If this is not provided by rainfall, you will have to make up the difference. It is better to give the garden a good soaking once a week rather than applying small amounts of water every other day. The best time to water is early in the morning. Hoe your beds regularly to control the weeds and leave the soil in a loose, friable condition to absorb later rainfall.

If you follow this advice, you should be rewarded with a fine crop of vegetables which will be far fresher and tastier than any that you buy from your local supermarket.

Hugh Harris-Evans is the owner of The Garden Supplies Advisor where you will find further articles, gardening tips and product reviews.

http://www.garden-supplies-advisor.com

Is your lawn mower tearing of the lawn grass blades instead of cutting it? Does your lawn look like it has been eaten by a goat, in spite of being cut by the lawn mower? Wait; do not pull your hair by the root. Help is at hand. We will teach you how to sharpen the lawn mower blades at minimum price and effort.

Your Manual Lawn Mower – The Faithful Walk Behinds

Tools: The tools that your will require for doing this job are

You and your time of about 2 hours or less

A bastard file of about 12” long

A small crow bar to prevent movement of rotor of lawn mower.

A worktable will be useful for dong the job comfortably.

Procedure: You can use the following procedure as a general guide and make changes to it to suit you. Remember the procedure is not sacrosanct. The results are important, not the procedure.

If possible, remove the handle of lawn mower and place lawn mower on the table.

Secure it if possible in the clamps. If you do not have clamps, do not bother, secure it against any block, so that the movement away from you is restricted.

Fix the crowbar in the blades so that it will not rotate

With the help of the bastard file, file the edges of blades so that they look sharp. Work at an angle of 45 degrees

When one blade is sharpened, remove the crowbar and turn the rotor to work on another blade. Repeat the procedure until all blades are sharpened.

If you have a flexible shaft grinder in your DIY workshop, you will be able to complete the work within 5 to 10 minutes per blade. Make a template of blade profile before you start your work and compare frequently. This is necessary to ensure that you do not over cut at a place.

Safety Tip For You

While sharpening the blades ensure that the stroke is not too long otherwise, you may injure yourself.

Sharpening Blades Of Power Mower

Depending upon the lawn mower the procedure may vary. We have included general statements in this procedure; you would have to change the procedure slightly. Keep the maintenance manual of lawn mower handy if you have one.

Tools required.

Siphon hose and clean container

Heavy work gloves and goggles

Double-cut (medium-rough) flat file

Lumber scrap

Socket wrench set

Rubber mallet*

Bench vise or C clamps

Rotary blade sharpener accessory

Electric drill*

Screwdriver, or 1/4-in. rod or bolt*

Blade balancer

Replacement blade*

* Only if required

The list may look formidable, but tools are generally available with every DIY enthusiast.

Procedure:

The procedure is given for the simple single blade lawn mower, but the same will apply to all types of blades, whether single or double

Wear hand gloves and clean the engine and the gasoline tank from outside

Remove spark plug from the engine

Remove all the fuel from the tank of the gasoline engine. Use the siphon hose so you do not spill gasoline on floor.

Completely empty out the oil from gearbox if you have one

Invert the engine and have access to the blade.

Clamp the engine so it does not move and clean the blade area thoroughly

With help of a box spanner, remove the nut holding the blade. Usually the nut will be unlocked in the reverse to direction of rotation of engine. You may engage the screwdriver in the cooling fan of engine to stop rotation of engine.

If you find that you are using too much force to unlock the nut, put one or two drops of rust removing chemical, and try after 30 minutes

After you remove the blade, clamp it in the bench vise and sharpen it with a file or a grinder. Sharpen only the outer 2 to 3 inches. The area to be sharpened will be known if you see the blade.

Sharpen only to the required extent. Too much sharpening is not necessary. This is not the knife. It works at the speed of the engine

After sharpening, check with your thumb. Be careful not to cut thumb. If you have done sharpening before, or seen some one doing it, you will know what we mean by this.

Balance the blade with help of a small balancing tool on VEE blocks, or even on two foot rulers placed side by side

Refit the blades, refill engine oil and gasoline and test the sharpness of blades on uncut portion of your lawn

Safety tips:

Always use safety goggles and hand gloves when working with power tools.

Be sure to remove the spark plug before starting. Serious accidents can happen if you do not do this.

Andrew Caxton contributes adding reviews and special articles regularly to http://www.lawn-mowers-and-garden-tractors.com. A gardening website that carries deep readings on lawn equipment, and lawnmower parts, including how to sharpen blades.

Of the many types of materials that are available for the construction of outdoor furniture, teak is often overlooked. This beautiful wood – of tropical origin – adds character and elegance to your outdoor design through a blending of nature and man-made elements which provide an outstanding aesthetic presentation to any yard.

Teak (technically known as tectona grandis) has been proven to be the best wood for use in the great outdoors. As a result of its high rubber content, this wood has a natural resistance to heat, water and frost without the benefit of any treatment or special coating.

In addition, its natural properties render it termite resistant due to the high content of oil that it possesses. The durability of teak is another benefit that makes it very popular with consumers, as well as the way in which it wears. Over time, weathering causes the teak to develop a silvery gray patina that heightens its beauty without compromising its integrity.

Though it may be higher in price than other types of construction, teak can be considered an investment, since its durability will provide you with many years of classic comfort and design.

Due to its unique ability prevent the build-up of rust and corrosion when brought into contact with metal, teak can be used in combination with a variety of metals to provide a stylish alternative to an all-wood appearance, while protecting the integrity of the entire structure through its unusual properties.

This is, in fact, one of the reasons that teak has been so popular since ancient times and has been utilized in the construction of ships. The bottom line is that, when teak is introduced into the scenario, the result is a strong product that doesn’t suffer the downfalls of most pieces of furniture – and all within a pretty package.

Regardless of the season, teak furniture can safely be left outdoors without diminishing its durability or presentation, and is easy to care for with a bit of warm soapy water and a scrub brush.

For those who prefer to use a pressure washer, be sure to keep the pressure low and use a flat jet for the best results. This should be done twice each year, in order to clean and preserve the teak.

Outdoor dining sets for porches and patios, chaise lounges, chairs, benches, tables and a variety of accessories can be used to design a comfortable, yet attractive, outdoor lawn grouping for everyday use or entertaining.

Since teak furniture is available in a variety of styles – and is weather resistant – it’s ideal for any type of climate, from the heat of the southwest to the ever-changing seasonal conditions of New England.

As a result of its natural properties, diversity and beauty, teak can be integrated into a wide variety of items today, and is a popular furniture choice for English Garden settings.

Found in private homes, hotels, lodges, resorts and luxury watercraft, teak is synonymous with elegance and is one of the best furniture investments that a homeowner can make when furnishing the outdoor area of the home.

Mike has been involved with exterior landscaping for several years, having first got the bug when he landscaped his own back garden. Since then he’s been helping people find and review the best value for money outdoor furniture, to meet your needs. Find out more at his site: Home of Teak Furniture or discover the full range of articles here: Teak Furniture Articles

You can also get the entire article on his site here: Outdoor Furniture: Exploring the Benefits of Teak