There are two main classes of roses: Bush roses and climbing roses. These two classifications are based entirely on tendencies of growth. Bush roses grow from 1 foot to 6 feet in height and require no support. Climbing roses produce long canes each year and must be provided with some type of support. Bush Roses Bush roses include many types grouped according to flowering habit, winter hardiness, and other traits. These types are hybrid teas, floribundas. polyanthas, hybrid perpetuals, shrubs, old-fashioned, tree or standard, and miniature.

Hybrid Teas: Hybrid teas are more widely grown and more popular than all other types of roses combined. They are the so-called monthly or everblooming roses, and are the ones grown in beds in rose gardens and by florists under glass. In fact, when the word "rose" is used, it generally suggests a hybrid tea variety. Most hybrid teas are winterhardy in the milder sections of the country, but varieties differ in cold resistance. In sections where winters are severe, practically all varieties need some protection.

Floribundas: Floribunda roses bear their flowers in clusters, and the individual blooms of many closely resemble hybrid teas. They are increasing in popularity, especially for bed plantings where large numbers of flowers are wanted. As a rule floribunda varieties are hardy: they will tolerate more neglect than any other type of rose with the possible exception of some of the shrub species. While some are fine for cutting, they will not replace hybrid teas for this purpose.

Polyanthas: Polyantha roses are distinguished from the floribundas by their smaller flowers, which are borne in large clusters. They are closely related to many of the climbing roses, having flower clusters very similar to them in form and size of individual florets. The polyanthas are hardy and may be grown in many sections where hybrid teas are difficult to grow. Their chief use is in bed plantings or in borders with other perennials. They are excellent for mass plantings.

Hybrid Perpetuals: Hybrid perpetuals are the June roses of grandmother’s garden. Their flowers are large. Generally they lack the refinement of hybrid teas. As their name indicates, they are considered as ever-blooming types, although most of them do not bear continuously through the growing season as do hybrid teas. They usually develop large, vigorous bushes if given good cultural care and proper pruning. They are very hardy and stand low winter temperatures without protection.

Shrub Roses: Shrub roses are actually a miscellaneous group of wild species, hybrids, and varieties that develop an open bush type of growth that is useful in general landscape work. They are hardy in all sections of the country. While their flowers do not equal in size or form those of other types of roses, many bear very attractive seed pods in the fall. They have very fine foliage and some are quite useful for hedges or screen plantings.

Visit Merchants Passage for garden decor and accessories and Garden Gnomes.

Elizabeth Passage has a lifelong passion for, and extensive experience in, the garden gift, landscaping, garden decor, garden design industries.

Have you ever thought about how much it costs to maintain your garden? Most people never give it much thought - spending the odd day in the garden when they have time and impulse buying plants at the local nursery.

But if you’re serious about saving money and adding value to one of you’re most important assets it’s worth thinking about the ongoing costs associated with garden maintenance and how this can be minimized. It’s also worth spending time and money on your garden so your asset appreciates rather than depreciates.

For the average size garden you should budget on one full day of maintenance every two months. That’s a total of 6 full days a year. Now if you like gardening, that’s not a problem and it’s probably something you enjoy and get a lot of satisfaction from.

But with today’s busy lifestyles, many of us are time poor and might have other priorities than spending time in the garden. So if you can’t make the regular commitment of a day every two months you need to allow for this in your budget.

Costs vary, but on average you would pay $20 an hour for a qualified gardener or horticulturist, so this will cost you $160 every two months or $960 a year. Now this is just for general maintenance and doesn’t include more regular jobs such as mowing or pruning. It also doesn’t include costs such as fertilizing or adding to or improving your garden.

Some of the larger companies have recognized this opportunity and are now providing professional garden maintenance services.

Darrell Canns, General Manager for Yates Garden Care says the market is huge and the garden maintenance business is 10 years behind the franchised lawn mowing industry.

Yates are now entering the market with a full range of professional services including basic lawn mowing, weeding, pruning and fertilizing, small landscaping jobs and tree surgery work.

They are developing a professional horticultural franchise to help put people in the industry. To make money a franchise owner will need to meet professional standards set by Yates, undergo training by the company and use the Yates brand name.

The service has already been successfully established in the eastern states and is being launched in Western Australia soon. Each franchisee will have about 30 or 40 regular customers.

The cost to garden owners is varied and depends on the size of the garden and the time of year. Darrell Canns says this may vary from $50 or $60 a month to $300 a week.

He believes the difference with other operators is that their people are qualified and the work is guaranteed. He also says they will quote on the total job rather than offer an hourly rate. An example of a fixed price for a specialized service is $400 to redig a garden bed, weed it, fertilize, replant and mulch.

There’s an increasing pride in gardens and for people who don’t have a lot of time this is a service that’s appealing because you know what you get and you know how much it will cost.

Mr Canns believes consumers trust the Yates brand and the company has the ongoing expertise in gardening and horticulture.

The company is also working on a garden valuation service, where Yates will give a written valuation of the replacement cost of the garden and an ongoing maintenance cost. Canns says this will be used by real estate agents to compare properties and provide a tangible and independent figure on what a garden is worth.

So in terms of advice what should one do? Here are eight tips:

1. Budget to maintain your garden. Most people underestimate the value of their garden and many people make costly mistakes by neglecting their garden. Plants and trees may die through lack of water, putting in bad stock, not planting properly, and incorrect fertilizing or pruning. Compared to the value of the plants, the maintenance cost is small.

2. Think about the big picture of your garden. What do you want your garden to look like and what sort of theme.

3. Keep your garden simple. Often simple themes work best and feel more spacious. Set one theme and stick to it. Differentiate between decorative elements. Do they relate to the theme of the garden?

4. Avoid too much maintenance. Low maintenance gardens will cost less over the long term. Think about how much time and money you want to put into your garden in terms of maintenance.

5. Understand what you want. For example a garden for a holiday house would be totally different for your normal home.

6. Plan your garden. Work out what works best for different areas. For example shade versus sun and the purpose for which the garden will be used.

7. Avoid big trees in small spaces. Many people put in totally inappropriate trees and plants in areas that are just too small and at a later date it is very expensive to remove those trees.

8. Avoid buying plants on impulse. Roses are often the worst for this. They look great in the nursery in full bloom but can be a disaster. Plan before you buy.

Thomas Murrell MBA CSP is an international business speaker, consultant and award-winning broadcaster. Media Motivators is his regular electronic magazine read by 7,000 professionals in 15 different countries.

You can subscribe by visiting http://www.8mmedia.com. Thomas can be contacted directly at +6189388 6888 and is available to speak to your conference, seminar or event. Visit Tom’s blog at http://www.8mmedia.blogspot.com.

The great classic gardens of the past almost always featured garden statues as focal points in their designs. These would often be on a grand scale, with larger than life portrayals of men, women, birds and beasts. They would be used to attract the eye down particular vistas, to add height and interest to a flat area, or to provide a foil for water gardens or ponds.

Can those classic traditions be transported to ordinary householders’ garden? The answer to that is “yes”, although it is usually in a miniature form. A small garden cannot reasonably display a 20 ft stone statue, but can attractively display the same design at one tenth of the height. Garden statues have therefore become very popular for the modern garden and gardener.

Materials Used in Garden Statues

Garden statues have traditonally been carved from natural stone, but similar and often cheaper results are now commonly achieved through the use of concrete moulds. Apart from concrete and stone, though, some may prefer the shiny Asian garden decor created from bronze. However, that is not all that is available. Marble is a type of stone, but deserves separate mention due to its superior and luxurious lustre; you can also find garden statues in fibreglass and metals other than bronze.

Concrete statues, although tough, can still get damaged, and concrete aggregates such as fibrestone are now regularly used in the production of garden statues from concrete moulds. Fibrestone, for example, is concrete reinforced with a fine but very strong mesh, which gives extra strength and durability. This is ideal for high quality, long lasting statues, and can even be used effectively for large, classic style statues for the larger country garden. Also, being lighter than concrete on its own, fibrestone is easier to transport and move around the garden should the need arise.

As with many product, you can go to the bottom end of the market and choose plastic statues. These may fulfill your immediate needs, but if you are seeking to reproduce a classic garden of old, you will probably prefer sticking to stone, concrete or concrete aggregates. It is well worth the extra expense both for statues and outdoor planters.

Subjects for Garden Statues

There has always been a wide choice of subjects for garden statues. Many are of classic origin, such as cherubs, angels, Appollo, Venus, Sphynx and many more religious and mythical icons. In recent times, though, animals have become a popular choice of subject for garden statues, and you may find the majority of the statues you see today are of animals. Statues of lions and unicorns go back many centuries, but today most popular animals can be found as garden statues. Cat and dog statues are easy to find, but you can also find frogs and toads, squirrels and other animals.

Planning Statue Placement

The best time to consider where to place garden statues is when you are planning your garden design and layout, but that is not a necessity and may not be practical anyway. The great country gardens of the past, and today, used large statues as focal points in vistas, or in prominent positions, where they can freely impose their stature without detracting from the rest of garden. Smaller statues can be very effective in small gardens, but to get maximum effect, as with large gardens, it is worth spending a bit of time considering their surrounds so they blend in seamlessly with the garden design. Just buying a statue while you are out because it catches your eye may lead to disappointment when you get it back home and find it looks out of place in your agrden wherever you put it.

This garden decor article was written by Roy Thomsitt, owner author of the Gardens and Decor web site

Flowers Truly Reach Your Soul.

Flowers are a heartfelt, natural way to lift our spirits. They can provide a smile for a tired face or even brighten a room for a convalescent. Just imagine your favourite flower. Are you smiling yet? You are definitely in a better mood.

There isn’t a doubt that beautiful surroundings provide us with a favorite environment that helps us thrive. Flowers are an simple and affordable way to add a splash of color and emotion into your life.

Tropical flowers are an exciting new change from traditional floral gifts like roses , and with modern shipping methods they are availble worldwide. Their large size and vibrant colors make them an impressive gift for favorite occasions like Mother’s Day, Valentine’s Day, birthdays and anniversaries.

Flowers can be purchased from local florists or "Grower Direct" services that ship them worldwide. If purchasing flowers to be shipped, make sure someone is waiting to accept the order and that they are not left with the mail on a back porch in the sun all afternoon until someone comes home from work. Flowers are shipped without any water supply, and neglecting them for hours on top of the shipping time can take days off their lifespan.

If you buy tropical flowers like heliconias or gingers, or if you are lucky enought to live in the tropics and have them in your garden, here are a select few tips to help them thrive and to extend their shelf life as cut flowers.

Caring for Cut Tropical Flowers ——————————————

one. Water your plants well and give them a large drink prior to cutting. This is significant for foliage plants as well because a few varieties “drink” incredibly little after cutting. Instead, they live off their stored sap.

Tropical plants have adapted to their natural environment which means frequent but short periods of heavy tropical downpour.

Look at the flower heads and notice how the petals are “cupped” to catch and store as much water as possible. These plants drink from the top and like being showered with water.

Look at the pattern on the leaves. The ridges channel water down to the stem where it’s absorbed into the many layers of the plant.

two. If your flowers have been out of water for any length of time after cutting, submerge them entirely in the bath for half an hour before placing them in a vase.

three. Cut three to four inches off the stem and then place them in a tall vase FULL of clean water.

four. Use a spray bottle to mist them at least twice a day.

five. Change the water and trim a new end on the stems every second or third day.

You are able to double the vase life of your cut flowers by applying these elementary techniques.

Frank Vanderlugt

Visit our website at http:/www.flowers-now.info

Annuals provide gardeners with an inexpensive way to add variety and long lasting color to the landscape. Though they will bloom all season long, annuals sprout from seed, flower, set seed and die within one growing season and need to be replanted each year, at least here in New England. What can be considered and annual here in Massachusetts may actually be a perennial in Florida so the term annual is somewhat relative.

Most annuals cannot tolerate freezing temperatures so they should be planted after the last spring frost; here in Massachusetts it’s usually safe to plant in early may. Be aware of your local conditions before you plant as well of the needs of the plant. Few annuals will thrive in the shade. Most prefer between 6 and 8 hours of sun each day, there are a few annuals, however, such as impatiens and begonias, which will tolerate some light shade. When choosing your site, avoid areas which remain water logged after summer showers.

With their impressive displays of color, annuals are able stand on their own as bedding plants. They can also add color to the herb garden or fill in thin spots and gaps in the perennial bed where they can be used to compliment other flowers.

Proper site preparation is essential. To prepare the ground for planting turn over the soil to the depth of about 1′ and add compost and peat moss. Basically, you’ll want to prepare the planting area the same way you would a perennial bed. Add compost and other organic matter to increase water retention in sandy soils. For clay soils, add compost and sand to improve drainage. To promote deep root growth water thoroughly. Let the soil dry out before watering again. Soaker hoses work well in annual beds since they slowly soak the soil while keeping the flowers and leaves dry. Nutrient rich soil will help annuals get established quickly which is critical in areas with short growing seasons. When planting, add to the soil a slow release fertilizer so the plants are fed through the entire season.

Once the annuals begin to flower deadheading becomes very important. This the process in which the past blooms are pruned or pinched off of the plant. Deadheading prevents annuals from putting all of its energy into producing seed heads; rather, the energy put forth will go into producing more flowers. Along with deadheading, be sure to cultivate the garden soil throughout the season, this will loosen compacted soil and allow moisture and nutrients to reach the plant’s deepest roots.

Light mulch, such as buckwheat hulls, will help reduce the growth of weeds in the garden and help the soil retain its moisture. Be sure to remove any weeds that do appear as annuals do not like competition for water and nutrients. Annuals can also be in competition with other garden plants. If the flowers are to be grown along the edges of the lawn, make sure that you edge the garden bed often with a garden spade. This will help keep the grass roots from growing beneath the garden and robbing the annuals of nutrients and moisture. If your planting beds are cut into the lawn, they should be at least 3 ft. wide; this will give the plants enough room to flourish.

When spring arrives, head out to the greenhouse, pick out some annuals and plant them as soon as the weather permits. Annuals tend to be a bit more labor intensive than perennials but the payoff, non stop colorful blooms from spring through autumn, makes it worth it.

T Hallinan is a landscape designer and builder in Massachusetts. Visit his garden resource website http://www.gardenlistings.com for all kind of helpful information. For more garden guides visit http://www.gardenlistings.com/resources.htm

Introduction

So you’ve decided to build your very own backyard water garden. You are in the process of actively planning out your design, and you’re visualizing the end-result. But have you paused to consider what kind of pond construction you will be using? Do you know what kind of pond constructions exist? The majority of garden ponds utilize one of two types of constructions: a preformed shell, or a pond liner.

Introducing Folding Preformed Pond Shells

Traditionally, preformed ponds are large shells, which are extremely burdensome and difficult to transport. For example, a typical preformed pond kit would come in a box that is 60” x 48” x 24”, which is too large for many car trunk sizes.

To alleviate this problem, flexible preformed ponds have recently been introduced by various manufacturers. These folding ponds include built-in plant shelves, are weather-resistant, and are able to withstand extreme temperatures from 0 F to 105 F.

One example of a folding pond, is the one that Algreen distributes (available at GardenSM.com). Upon closer examination of one of their ponds, one of its greatest features is its textured ridges. These ridges are strategically placed to allow beneficial bacteria to form growth colonies, which significantly reduces algae-buildup in the pond.

Liner Ponds

Liner kits, on the other hand, present many difficulties for the beginner pond gardener. Since every liner pond shape is different, pond gardeners must customize their own pond and ensure that it is level, and that it does not have excessive wrinkling. Therefore, liners are ideal for the more experienced water gardeners because they allow for customizable installations, which consequently promotes greater creativity. However, for the very same reasons, liner ponds also require some extra pre-planning.

Because you can create various shapes with liners, it is possible to construct larger, and deeper liner pond configurations (when compared to preformed ponds). For example, a typical preformed pond at GardenSM.com can only hold up to 144 gallons of water. On the other hand, a 10′ x 15′ liner can be purchased from the same store that can construct a pond that would hold up to 700 gallons of water. However, in terms of cost, the purchase of a EPDM liner is a more expensive option, when compared to the purchase of a preformed pond.

Before making a decision about the pond construction that you require, it is important that you take a moment to consider several variables: cost, labour required, and creativity. It is hoped that by making the proper decision that your pond experience will be all the more enjoyable.

Gerry Fung is the Vice President of GardenSM.com. Both liner and folding preformed pond kits are available at GardenSM.com’s online store at http://www.buypond.com.

Japanese gardening is much different from the Western style garden. Most would say that a Japanese garden is far more soul soothing and inspires meditation. Japanese gardening is a cultural form of gardening that is meant to produce a scene that mimics nature as much as possible. Using trees, shrubs, rocks, sand, artificial hills, ponds, and flowing water the garden becomes an art form. The Zen and Shinto traditions are both a large part of Japanese gardening and, because of this; the gardens have a contemplative and reflective state of mind.

The basic methods of scenery are a reduced scale, symbolization, and borrowed views. The reduced scale is the art of taking an actual scene from nature, mountains, rivers, trees, and reproducing it on a smaller scale. Symbolization involves generalization and abstraction. An example of this would be using white sand to suggest the ocean. Borrowed views refer to artists that would use something like an ocean or a forest as a background, but it would end up becoming an important part of the scene.

There are two types of Japanese gardening. The tsukiyami garden is a hill garden and mainly composed of hills and ponds. The hiraniwa, which is the exact opposite of the tsukiyami garden, is a flat without any hills or ponds.

The basic elements used in Japanese gardening include rocks, gravel, water, moss, stones, fences, and hedges. Rocks are used as centerpieces and bring a presence of spirituality to the garden. According to the Shinto tradition, rocks embody the spirits of nature. Gravel defines surface and is used to imitate the flow of water when arranged properly. Stones create a boundary and are sculpted into the form of lanterns. Water; whether it is in the form of a pond, stream, or waterfall, is an essential part of a Japanese garden. It can be in the actual form of water or portrayed by gravel, but no matter what, it is crucial to a Japanese gardens balance.

There are several forms and types of plants that are signature of Japanese gardening, the main one being Bonsai. Bonsai is the art of training everyday, average plants, such as Pine, Cypress, Holly, Cedar, Cherry, Maple, and Beech, to look like large, old trees just in miniature form. These trees range from five centimeters to one meter and are kept small by pruning, re-potting, pinching of growth, and wiring the branches.

A garden is a wonderful place to relax and meditate. Whether it is a Japanese garden or Western world garden, designing, building, and planting is a great family event.

For more information about Japanese gardening, visit Japanese Garden. For resources about general gardening, visit Garden

Many gardeners like to enjoy their roses twice — first in the garden, then indoors as cut flowers. By choosing the right roses, cutting them at the proper time of day, and conditioning them after cutting, you can enjoy your cut roses for the longest possible time — up to five days or more after cutting.

When to Cut Roses

In general, the more petals a rose has the slower it will open and the longer it will last. So, the best roses to use as cut flowers are the fully double varieties. Flowers with fewer petals open quickly and need to be replaced more often. Old garden and shrub roses generally wilt rapidly because their petals lack the substance (thickness and sturdiness) of modern roses and therefore don’t make good cut flowers.

In addition to the form of a rose, you should consider its blooming stage. A rose will last longer if it is cut when the sepals have separated from the bud and have turned downward, and when the bud has softened but before the stamens are visible. If you squeeze the bud and it is still hard, wait a day or two before cutting it or it may not open after it is cut. Roses should be cut from a well-watered plant, late in the afternoon when the sugar and nutrient content of the plant is highest. This provides the bloom with ample energy to develop and open normally, and to stay open longer without wilting. During hot weather, when there is chance that a flower may be dehydrated by late afternoon, water the plant well several hours before cutting.

How to Cut Roses

Using pruning shears or flower-cutting shears cut the stem at a 45-degree angle, no shorter than just above the first five-leaflet leaf below the flower. You can cut a stem as long as you like, provided that at least two sets of leaves are left on the main stem to act as food producers for future growth and flowering.

Carry a bucket of water with you into the garden so that you can place the cut stems in the water immediately. The flowers will last much longer if the uptake of water is not interrupted for too long and the stems don’t dry out. It’s all right to submerge the leaves temporarily as they too will absorb moisture.

Although you will not harm a plant if you cut off all its flowers at one time, you may want to leave a few on the plant for garden color. Cutting roses, whether new or faded, encourages the plants to grow and re-bloom quickly. After you have cut the roses re-cut the stems at a slant with the stem underwater to permit maximum water absorption.

How to Condition Roses

Place the bucket of water containing the cut roses in a cool, dark place, like in the basement, to allow the roses to become “conditioned” before arranging them in a vase. Conditioning roses allows them to get used to being detached from the plants and slows down the respiratory rate of the leaves. Leave them for at least several hours; preferably overnight.

You can condition cut flowers in a refrigerator as long as the refrigerator is intended only for roses and not for food. Many types of fruit stored in a refrigerator release ethylene gas, a ripening agent that causes cut flowers to open prematurely.

Water for cut flowers is best if it is slightly acidic because acid breaks up air bubbles in water by neutralizing the carbon dioxide gas. Air bubbles can clog capillaries in the stem and prevent water from reaching the flowers and foliage. Water also travels more quickly up a stem when the water is acidic. If you’re not sure whether your water is acidic, ask your water supplier. If it is not acidic, add lemon juice to acidify it. You should not use artificially softened water; it contains sodium, which is toxic to plants. In most cases, use cold water; it slows down the respiratory rate of the leaves. However, if the flowers have wilted because they have been out of water too long or because the stems were not cut underwater soon enough and the stem ends have become clogged, hot water will revive them faster than cold water. The stems absorb hot water more quickly.

How to Prepare Roses for a Vase

Before placing the roses in a vase, remove any leaves and thorns that will be below the water after arranging, because these will quickly disintegrate, foul the water, and shorten the life of the cut flowers. Thorns can be snapped off by hand or with a special thorn-stripping tool sold by florist supply stores. Then clean the remaining foliage with soap and water if necessary to remove dirt or spray residue, and make the leaves shine by rubbing with a paper towel, a soft cloth, or a nylon stocking. If any of the leaves are ripped or chewed, they can be manicured with small scissors.

More tips: If the roses you have picked are fragrant, handle them gently. The petals of fragrant roses have more scent-emitting glands than do those of less-fragrant kinds, and they therefore tend to bruise more easily.

To lengthen the life of your cut roses, always use a clean container for the flowers, and add a floral preservative to the water. Because they are acidic, contain sugar, and include a bacteria-retarding agent, floral preservatives provide some nutrients and restrain the growth of bacteria that will shorten the life of the flowers. These preservatives can be purchased at a flower shop. If you can’t buy one, mix any clear citrus-based soft drink containing sugar with three parts water; or mix 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 1 tablespoon sugar, and l/2 teaspoon household bleach in 1 quart of water.

Keep the container filled with water to reduce the chance that it will evaporate or be consumed by the roses. If possible, change the water daily, re-cutting the stems underwater each time. Or check the level every day and add water as needed. To prolong the life of cut roses, keep cool and away from drafts, air-conditioners, radiators, and full sun.

Display the splendor of single rose stems in simple vases. When enjoying blooms from first-year roses, it’s usually better to cut short stems.

Good Roses for Long-Stemmed Cutting

Barbra Streisand (’WEKquaneze’)

Bride’s Dream (’KORoyness’)

Crystalline (’ARObipy’)

Elina (’DICjana’)

Jardins de Bagatelle (’MEImafris’)

Kardinal (KORlingo’)

Love & Peace (’BALpeace’)

Moonstone (’WEKcryland’)

New Zealand (’MACgenev’)

Peter Mayle (’MEIzincaro’)

‘Royal Highness’

Toulouse Lautrec (’MEIrevolt’)

Valencia (’KOReklia’)

Veteran’s Honor (‘JACopper’)

Bambi Coker
http://www.RosesSecretsRevealed.com

© Bambi Coker All Rights Reserved

Weather, animals, and people cause mechanical injury to plants. Of the 3 causes, damage by people is number 1. Most of this damage is caused by the improper use of lawn equipment around the plant. If a lawn mower or weed whacker hit the bark they can cause damage to the tree. By hitting the bark these machines cause damage to the bark as well as the vascular system. By damaging the vascular system you cause the plant to be less effective in the movement of water and sugar which are vital to the health of the plant. By injuring the bark you cause the tree to divert energy from other systems such as branch and leaf development to healing the wound. As a result these plants have a tendency to decline or eventually die.

Roots can also be affected by mechanical injury. Soil compaction occurs because of the increased foot traffic. When soil compaction occurs it decreases the amount of oxygen available to the root structure. Bad weather can also cause mechanical injury. Large amounts of ice and snow can build up during a severe winter. Large accumulations of both of these can cause branches to break. Lightning strikes can also damage or kill a tree. Normally lightning will not knock a tree down, but causes massive damage to the vascular and structural tissues, killing the tree or making it structurally unsafe.

Solving the problem:

There are steps a homeowner can take to decrease the chances of mechanical injury occurring.

Step 1. Use mulch around the base of your tree or shrub to aid in protecting the roots, trunk and branches. 3 inches of mulch is sufficient to achieve this. Do not use white rock or other reflective material as this has the potential to scorch the bark.

Step 2. Proper pruning at the correct time will encourage the growth of a stronger, more vigorous tree.

Step 3. Stake larger trees or shrubs until they become established. Ensure you remove these stakes in the second year to prevent girdling problems in later years

Step 4. Site location is important to prevent damage from wind. If you choose an area that is exposed to wind ensure you use a plant that can tolerate high winds. If you can, provide some sort of windbreak.

Step 5. Although not a big concern, you can install a lightning protection system for taller, more valuable trees. Contact a tree service company for more information on this.

Step 6. Take a little extra time when cutting or landscaping around your trees and shrubs. By being aware of the damage you can cause, you will lessen the chances of injuring your trees and shrubs.

Paul is a Certified Pesticide Applicator in the province of Alberta, Canada. He has over 15 years experience in the lawn care industry.

For more lawn care information, please visit http://www.fairyring.ca

Women adore getting flowers, most especially roses, as it is a symbol of love and affection. Price of roses vary from state to state and flower shop to flower shop. Regardless, it is an investment that you want to have last as long as possible. So here are some steps you can take to ensure they last

1) If you have roses and greens wrapped and you want to arrange them in a vase, the first step is to get a bowl of warm water, and with a sharp knife slice the ends slantwise under water. You do it this way for two reasons. 1) Cutting slantwise ensures that the opening is big enough to draw water, as they drink a lot, and 2) cutting under water ensures that the cut end doesn’t get an air pocket blocking them from drinking.

2) For best results put them in a vase of warm water and a package of flower food and if possible refrigerate for 2 hours. You’ll want them to drink well. Note, if you don’t have flower food, you can use a spoon of sugar and a few drops of bleach. The bleach will kill bacteria in the water.

3) Before you place your roses in a vase, Take each rose stem and take off the leaves that may be below the water line, but don’t take them all off because the greens contribute to the overall look of the arrangement.

4) Now the next step goes against what most florists will tell you. If at all possible, if the thorns are not too big, I suggest you do not take them off. The reason for this is that it causes the rose stem to be wounded. This leaves them open to bacteria and they’ll wilt quicker. If you have to take some of them off then take your thumb, put it on the side of the thorn and pop it off. This is the least invasive way to get them off.

5) Change the water daily.

6) If an arrangement has arrived to you already made, then you need to change the water daily, feed them and do a fresh cut on the bottom. Check to see if any leaves are below the water line and remove.

Follow these simple steps and you’ll enjoy your roses much longer.

On another note; if you are allergic to flowers (or even if your not) it is nice to give yourself a floral motivational poster. You’ll still have a visual of flowers.

I hope this helps. Enjoy!

Willie Jones

Willie is a freelance writer, researcher, floral designer, and artist. Thanks very much for reading this far. Please come and visit us at: http://www.artinspires.com/for an inspirational poster or two

“Make sure you enroll in the free motivational poster drawing. All winners receive a free framed print.”