There are few things more exciting for gardeners at this time of year than dreaming of new plants. I’ll focus on a few of the better plants in the next few weeks but let’s start with the best example of new breeding.

Our old North American native friend Echinacea or purple coneflower is really letting loose this coming spring. The work of several major plant-breeding houses is coming to the market and while the plants will be expensive, they are wonderful. The double flowering ‘Razzmatazz’ with its double pink flowers are quite hardy as well as gorgeous. It will be complemented by ‘Doppelganger’ a coneflower that puts one blossom right on top of the first, resembling an apartment of flowers rather than a single bloom. Note that this double-decker flower usually comes into its own in the second year. This one has caught the imagination of the nursery trade almost as much as ‘Sparkler’ a variegated leaf coneflower. The variegation in ‘Sparkler’ is flecked throughout the leaf while the variegation in the equally new ‘Prairie Frost’ is a broad band of cream around each leaf.

I’m also looking forward to having ‘Fragrant Angel’ in my garden as its large white blooms are extremely fragrant. Add the ‘Rocky Top Hybrids’ to this list of coneflowers (mauve flowers and compact growth) and you have an entire menu of new Echinacea to find this coming summer. Two dwarf plants ‘Kim’s Mophead’ and ‘Kim’s Knee High’ will find themselves in my clay pots along with the ‘Rocky Top Hybrids’.

Echinacea ‘Big Sky Sunrise’ has soft lemon-yellow blooms and is a knock out plant in my garden while its cousin ‘Big Sky Sunset’ has wide, very bright orange petals. These are both plants to watch for and pay the price. Hardy in my zone 4 garden.

Plant all these in full sun in well-drained soils and you’ll enjoy them for years. They’re trouble free and easy to grow plants!

Doug Green, award winning garden author with 7 books published, answers gardening questions in his free newsletter at http://www.gardening-tips-perennials.com

Using landscaping ideas can be an effective way to attract wildlife, such as birds, to your yard and neighborhood. Thoughtfully placing bird feeders or houses around your yard can make it an inviting environment for different types of bird species. There are several advantages to utilizing landscaping ideas to increase wildlife populations around your home.

First, if these birds are spending time nesting in your yard, the less of a chance they will have to be eaten, killed, or harmed in some way. While they are there, your yard serves as a safe haven. The more they come to your yard and the longer they stay, the more protection they will have against predators and hunters.

The second advantage of trying out different landscaping ideas to attract wildlife populations to your yard is that you can enjoy bird watching with your children, grandchildren, or spouse. Bird watching is a wonderful pastime and can also be educational. You and your children can enjoy watching these magnificent creatures and at the same time you can let them in on little facts about each species.

Not only that, but you and your children or grandchildren can also use what you learn to do projects together, like making homemade birdfeeders to go along with the bird houses you put together using your landscaping ideas. Now, that is family time that you can be proud of. It sure beats watching TV, where there is no interaction with one another.

Lastly, another great reason to attract birds to your yard using landscaping ideas is because you can take beautiful photographs of every species and put together a wonderful book to share with your friends. Maybe you will even get enough to enter a few wildlife photography contests!

When looking for landscaping ideas, it is always best to visit a site you can trust to help you out. My personal recommendation is www.thelandscapingpro.com, it will help you with all of your needs.

Remember, a beautiful and inviting yard will draw more wildlife to your neighborhood then you ever could have imagined.

David Dunlap is the founder and owner of The Landscaping Pro, an online resource guide for every landscaping project. For more information, send an email to david@thelandscapingpro.com

Summer will be here before we know it, and we’ll be spending a large amount of time in our outdoor living area or patio. I long for warm weather so that I can lounge in my big cozy swing with the thick cushions and watch the kids play while I read a good book. Later we’ll grill something delicious to eat and sit around talking and having a fun time together.

Just because the area is outside doesn’t mean we have to settle for a plain old deck and backyard. Decorating an outdoor room, deck or patio is fun and not different than decorating any other part of your home.

You don’t have to spend much money to have an appealing outdoor living space. Your biggest expense may be your patio furniture and outdoor grill or barbeque.

The best way to add charm and beauty to your outdoor area is to simply choose a theme and then find affordable, quality accessories that you like. If you can find useful items as well, then you’re only adding to the benefit of outdoor living and extending your living space.

Add a beautiful table umbrella in your color scheme or maybe an outdoor rug. Tiki lighting can add atmosphere and comfort if used for keeping bugs away. For those occasional chilling evenings, a clay chiminea can be useful for added warmth and also for pest control.

Some other ideas for adding charm and beauty to your deck or patio decor is by adding lovely windchimes, decorative birdhouses, new or antique watering cans and of course don’t forget to add color throughout with potted plants in nice pots that match your theme or style.

Decorating an outdoor living space shouldn’t cost a fortune, but you should take some time to consider the amount of time you’ll spend there and your comfort level. Create an outdoor area that fits your lifestyle and tastes and that you’ll be proud to show off to friends.

Sherry Frewerd publishes several websites and blogs promoting affiliate programs and her own products and ebooks. Visit ‘Website Building Mom’ at http://websitebuildingmom.com to learn how to create your own professional-quality website for your business.

How much have you thought about landscaping? Do you know that a beautiful and well put together lawn has many benefits? Landscaping is lawn art and, like any other art form, it takes time, patience, and research to get your methods just right. So, what other benefits does landscaping provide besides just being "pretty"?

Firstly, landscaping can add value to your home and surrounding property. People will pay more for a home that looks nice and well maintained on the outside, as well as in, and home property values reflect that. The more your home is worth, the more equity it will have. We all strive to add value to our assets and this is an easy, enjoyable way to do a favor for yourself, your home, and your neighbors.

Landscaping can also be a good source of exercise, that is not vigorous or straining on your muscles. This is an additional aspect that becomes more important the older that you get. This may not be the case if you choose to lift heavy landscaping items, but there are many activities to keep you busy which are easy and manageable for anyone at almost any age. Lastly, the exercise you get from landscaping can also burn calories which may be important to you if you are a woman trying to watch her weight.

If landscaping is new to you or you want a great place to get advice on landscaping supplies, visit a website like www.thelandscapingpro.com. You are sure to find what you are searching for, and then some!

David Dunlap is the founder and owner of The Landscaping Pro, a complete online resource guide for every landscape project. If you would like more information, please send an email to david@thelandscapingpro.com

One of the happiest moments in a houseplant’s life is when it gets to go back outside for the summer. The increased sunlight and fresh rain act as major growth stimulants for tired houseplants. And, it is very fashionable to incorporate houseplants and foliage plants into garden design. Having said that, every gardener has to follow a few simple rules for successfully moving houseplants into the garden.

Houseplants can be moved outdoors during the day after all danger of daylight frost has passed. The temperatures for these first few days should at least be in the low 60’s F or greater than 15 degrees C. to avoid temperature shock. A windless site is also important as a cold wind will quickly chill a houseplant into shock. Leaving a plant outside for only a few hours a day for the first few days is optimal rather than leaving it outside from morning until night.

Plants can be left outdoors at night after all danger of night frost has passed and after a week of daytime acclimatization. Again, do not leave the houseplant outdoors if night temperatures are going to plunge or if there is a cold, raw wind. If you wouldn’t want to be outdoors, neither would your plant.

The key to successful acclimatization of indoor plants to outdoor gardens is slowly acclimatizing the plant to increased levels of sunshine, cool winds and natural rains. Usually a week of moving a plant outdoors in the morning and indoors at night will serve to harden off the tender indoor plant so it will survive and indeed, thrive in its new outdoor location. While we all want to rush the season in seeing our gardens fully leaved out, rushing or pushing indoor plants into cold gardens will only set them back.

Doug Green, award winning garden author of 7 gardening books, answers gardening questions in his free newsletter at http://www.beginner-gardening.com.

Having a beautiful and functional landscape is every homeowners dream. Hi, My name is John C Wilkes III and I have worked in the landscaping industry for over a decade. I achieved my degree in Landscape Architecture and went straight into the design and build sector. I have worked around all kinds of contractors and have worked as a contractor myself. Now I’m ready to share my knowledge. My intention is to help all those interested in improving their landscape so they might avoid some serious pitfalls while fulfilling their landscaping dreams.

We have all read articles similar to this one before and they all say the same thing. They encourage you to get three estimates, check references, and consult the BBB for each contractor you are considering. That’s all fine and dandy, but I’m here to explain how to deal with any contractor and get the results you want.

First, you want to choose the contractor that’s right for you. One popular theory says that there are three aspects to consider. Those are timely service, quality work, and pricing. This theory states that you can’t get all three aspects with the same company. That is you can’t get great quality work, fast, at a competitive price. There is some truth to this theory. That being the case you should decide what’s most important to you.

Do you need the job done fast or is it ok if the contractor takes a few weeks to complete? Are you only interested in top quality work or it it ok if it’s a little rough in places? And are you willing to pay top dollar or are you looking to get more for less? You should consider these aspects thoroughly and then follow your instinct.

Once you have chosen the contractor you want to work with you should handle your payments to him very carefully. After all that’s really all that’s motivating the contractor to come to your house and do the work. Most contractors will demand a deposit of 1/3 or 1/2 of the total job cost to put you on his schedule. You can go ahead and put down this deposit, but you need the agreement in writing which includes all specifications of work to be done and the time frame in which he will start and finish.

Even if the contractor mentioned some work he could do during consultations you had with him, if it’s not in the contract then don’t expect it to get done. Even something as small as pruning some shrubs or clearing an area should be specified.

Also make sure the contract has real time frames. If he says he can start in a week and complete within two weeks then get it in writing. Ask for a penalty clause that says for every day that goes by outside of the time frame set he will deduct $100 from total job cost. Contractors are familiar with this clause and should agree to it.

Once a job is halfway completed, some contractors will ask for another payment. If the payment schedule was broken into thirds and the work is going well then go ahead and pay the contractor so he can complete the work. If things have gone very badly to this point then don’t pay and excuse the contractor from the job.

When the job is almost completed the contractor will ask for the final payment. This is where you have to be strong. Make a list of all the details that have not been finished and tell the contractor he must finish the list before you will pay him the final payment. If you are comfortable you can pay him the majority of the final payment, but withhold 10% or so until the finishing list is completed.

Do not pay the contractor the total final payment if he is not totally finished. Remember he is working for the money no matter how well you are getting along. Once he is paid he will go looking for the next paycheck from the next client.

For more information about working with contractors and more landscaping information make sure you go to www.landscaperesolve.com. There you will find more valuable information you should consider before working to achieve your landscaping dreams.

My name is John C Wilkes III and I have worked in the landscaping industry for over a decade. I achieved my degree in Landscape Architecture and went straight into the design and build sector.

A common complaint among gardener is that late in the summer, before the fall foliage, there seems to be lull in garden color. There is, however, no shortage of shrubs which bloom in later in the season. Hydrangeas are one the most versatile. In fact, they are indispensable in the garden for summer color and foliage texture. No shrub border is complete without them.

Hydrangeas prefer part shade and rich organic soil. They prefer morning sun with afternoon shade; this will protect them from the hottest part of the day. If they get shade in the morning and sun in the afternoon they may look stressed due to the sudden rise in temperature. Hydrangeas need lots of water especially young plants since they tend to dry out quickly during the hot weather. After planting be sure to mulch well, this will help the soil retain moisture as well as help prevent weeds from encroaching on your garden. Fertilize the shrubs in the spring and then again in late summer. Adding compost to the soil around the base of the hydrangea each spring will keep the soil rich.

Lacecap and nikko blue hydrangeas are both cultivars of (Hydrangea macrophyllla). Lacecaps are recognized by its ring of flowers surrounding a center of florets and nikko blue by it large pom-pom like flowers. You can change the color of the blossoms of these varieties by changing the acidity of the soil. Add aluminum sulfate to make the soil acid. A pH level somewhere between 5 and 5.5 will result in blue flowers. Alternately, for pink flowers, make raise the pH level to 6.0 by adding lime, making the soil alkaline. You will need to repeat the this 2 or 3 times over the growing season and continue the process for as long as you want the change to continue.

The large (up to 15" long) white flowers of the PeeGee hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculta) turn to a faded pink in the fall and are great for cutting and taking indoors. Because their large flowers often weigh down its stems, PeeGee hydrangeas require staking.

Oak Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia) has a much different appearance than the other hydrangeas. Its foliage resembles that of the American oak. Its white blooms fade to pink in fall. Oakleaf hydrangeas grow to about 6′ and can tolerate more shade than other hydrangeas.

Climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris) is a deciduous vine which clings to garden structures, walls and fences with aerial roots. Its flowers are white and have the characteristics of the lacecap hydrangea.

Though there are numerous choices when it comes to types of hydrangeas, there are some general rules of thumb to follow when planting and caring for them. When planting new hydrangeas you’ll need to add a mix of compost and peat moss to the existing soil. This will give the plant plenty of nutrients and the soil ability to retain water. Dig a hole approximately twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. Place the hydrangea in the hole, making sure the top of the root ball matches the existing grade of the garden. Never install any plant below grade, its often detrimental to the health of the plant. Backfill about half way and water to remove air pockets. Finish filling the hole, water again and mulch. Planting in the spring or fall is best as the hot summer weather can stress hydrangeas.

In the spring prune broken branches and old flower blooms from the previous season. Don’t prune new shoots; they are where the new blooms will be. Prune in late summer, after blooming. Thinning the plant by reducing its number of stems by half will yield larger flower clusters.

Noted for their long lasting, late blooming flowers and their unique foliage, hydrangeas are one of the most versatile shrubs in the garden. Whether among a shrub border, climbing a garden structure or planted on its own as a specimen shrub hydrangeas are a wonderful addition to any garden.

Tim Hallinan is a landscape designer and builder in Massachusetts. Visit his garden resource website http://www.gardenlistings.com for all kind of helpful information. For more garden guides visit http://www.gardenlistings.com/resources.htm

One of my favorite plants is the large white-flowered Mystery Gardenia (gardenia jasminoides) that grows to about 5′ tall and wide. The perfume-like scent adds an exotic feeling to gardens. Plus, the large white flowers show up well in moonlight when many people more likely get a chance to take pleasure in their garden.

If you want to enjoy gardenias, plant them where they get sun. Most people plant gardenias in the shade because these plants love the same soil as shade-loving camellias and azaleas. However, gardenias can take full sun and prefer at least half a day of sunlight. Gardenias will not bloom well in the shade.

Don’t over water your gardenias. Keep the soil surface moist, but not soggy. Don’t let them dry out too much during flowering or they will drop their buds. To keep your plants from drying out, mulch well.

Gardenias also like rich organic soil, azalea/camellia fertilizer, and iron. If your gardenias get yellow leaves, they most likely need more iron. During the growing season, feed your gardenias every three weeks.

Don’t get harsh when pruning gardenias. They need some leaves left on the stock so they can get nutrition. Prune after blooming but before fall so the plant gets a chance to grow and form new flowers for the next spring bloom.

Gardenias bloom from late spring well into summer. Besides the glorious creamy-white blooms, they give your garden a gorgeous deep green backdrop all year long.

Plant gardenias near your entry door to welcome guests and yourself with the invigorating perfume-like scent. Just one or two flowers floating in a bowl of water fills your home with natural fragrance. With over 200 species of gardenias, you’re sure to find just the perfect variety at your local nursery for your garden.

Copyright © 2005 Jeanette J. Fisher. All rights reserved.

Jeanette Fisher, author of Joy to the Home and other books, teaches interior Design Psychology. Free "What Is Design Psychology" Report http://designpsych.com

With the arrival of spring and summer, that once clear and picture perfect pond is now turning a soupy shade of green. It makes viewing fish nearly impossible and takes a lot of fun out of owning a pond or water garden.

It’s a common problem for a lot of pond owners.

What your looking at is actually very small, nearly microscopic size plants called algae. When all of these little critters group together and get so dense they can literally shade the water and turn it into what appears to be a solid green mass.

Now let’s be clear on this. We’re not talking about a light tint of green in the water, which is actually a really good sign. We’re talking about water that is so green that you can’t see an inch or two under the surface!

For the most part, the biggest problem with planktonic algae is really the view and the disappointment of the pond owner. Fish generally can tolerate green water ok, although even they have limits.

The good news is, that even though green water can be a challenge to treat, there are options and solutions. Since what we’re really dealing with his is algae…we want to take a standard approach to dealing with any algae problem.

First of all, be sure to try to identify the support or nutrient source that is supporting this algae growth. Do you have too many fish in the pond for it’s size? A good rule of thumb for this is 1 inch of fish for every 10 gallons of water in the pond. Any more than this and you might be overstocked.

When fish are overstocked, they produce more waste material than plants and naturally occuring bacteria can keep up with. When this happens, there is a large excess of nutrients in the water which fosters aggressive plant growth…like algae.

Nutrients can also come from decaying matter that may fall into or lie at the bottom of the pond. Like a compost pile for your garden, this decaying matter simply adds more nutrients into the water, which is something you don’t want or need if you already have algae.

Finally, be sure to check for run off into the pond. Most homeowners work really hard to make their lawns and landscapes look really nice. If your adding fertilizer to your lawn or anywhere around the pond, there’s a good chance that some of it can runoff into the water….thereby adding more nutrients to the water.

So, your first objective to combat green water is to try and reduce these nutrient influences.

If you do that and still have an algae problem, the next thing to consider is adding a benefical bacteria and enzyme product to the pond, or adding more plants to help control or balance out some of the nutrients. In most cases, using one or the other, or a combination of both will help quite a bit.

And here’s a final word for caution. If you have fish in the pond, I’d strongly advise against using any type of algaecide product. It’s very hard to treat green water with an algaecide in my opinion without doing some harm to fish. Many pond owners have written to experess their dismay of misapplying a copper based aglaecide and losing all of their fish in a very short time.

Try the natural and progressive options first and if need be, contact a local pond professional to help get your pond back into balance in the safest way possible.

Mark Washburn is an experienced pond management specialists with an emphasis in algae control for commercial pond applications. Learn more about pond algae and pond care at the Algae Solution website.

Who doesn’t love to hear the water rushing and flowing through a very pretty orchid garden in a pond? Yes, this does not have to be only a dream. You can make it a reality.

Almost by definition orchids are a tropical plant dependent on the rain for their nutrition and health. They are used to humidity of about 40 - 60%. What better place to have this then in a beautiful orchid garden pond.

I think it the flow of the water that makes this site a very tranquil place. It is wonderful to have a sitting area near the orchid garden pond where you can relax and let the troubles of the day pass by.

Constructing a water garden is fairly easy to do with many sites on the Web where you can get information. There are several points that you should take into consideration before you start your project according to expert Peter Mays at Pond Solutions. the pond should be in full sun

it should be away from any trees that drop their leaves, especially Willow, Elder, Poplars, Laburnum, Yew and Oak try to be sure that the garden pond is not exposed to the North winds avoid water-logged areas consider the closest water source also should consider the source of electricity if you plan on having fountains or waterfalls. I urge you to do this. Consider the safety of children who may fall head first into the pond.

Orchid plants can go into any garden pond but an orchid garden pond is super. If you are living in the South USA they can stay out all year round. In the North USA they would need to come in once the temps start going below 5055 degrees F.

Having higher humidity will normally allow you to water less frequently. If they are in full sun be sure that you have orchids like dendrobiums, cattleyas or oncidiums.

Then all you will need to do is sit back, relax, listen to your orchid garden pond and let you mind drift to some far away place. Wow.

Visit our Orchid Store: http://www.orchid-store.orchids-plus-more.com

** This article can be used freely as long as the author and the Orchids-Plus-More.com are identified within the article.

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