Spring is creeping in, hallelujah, and it’s time for us to start digging in the dirt. For all of you frustrated gardeners that live in colder climes I bet you can’t wait to start planting your garden beds with flowers, herbs and vegetables. Over the long winter you forget how much you miss those showy blooms and the riot of color a beautiful garden can supply.

If you live up north, there are a variety of ways to cope with the short growing season. Frost, which can happen as late as May or June, delays your plans for planting seeds. With the many quick growing plants this does not pose a problem but with vegetables and ornamentals a little head start is very helpful for healthy, lush plants.

Starting those plants indoors solves the problem of unwelcome frost. Getting an early start indoors will really make a difference for frost intolerant plants. Another benefit of starting seeds indoors is that as soon as the frost danger has passed, you can plant your seedlings into your garden giving you a good extra month of gorgeous blooming flowers.

When starting seeds indoors, you must simulate the same conditions as those planted outside. Your basics for all plant life, whether inside or out, are soil, water and light. The difference is that your indoor seedlings will need a little more attention and each plant will have its own considerations.

Always start with sterilized soil, this is essential. There is a fungus known as Damping-off-Disease that can wipe out your hard work in a matter of days. For some reason the propagation of plants indoors allows just the right conditions for the spores of these fungi to grow rampantly.

You can easily avoid this plight by using sterile soil or a sterile medium. You can use your own soil but it involves a lot of work and may not be worth the effort when commercial mediums are readily available. To use your own soil, you must sterilize it in the oven after sifting out the clumps and debris. Most commercial mediums sometimes referred to as “soil less” are usually a combination of peat moss and vermiculite. When using these mediums make sure it is clearly marked on the bag that they are sterilized.

After deciding the medium that you will use, there are a variety of containers available to start your seeds. I have used flats, peat pots, dixie cups and even egg cartons successfully. As with any plant, the size of the container used is determined by the plant you are growing and only experience can guide you here.

Seedlings require an enormous amount of light, either sunlight or artificial light or a combination of both. If they don’t get sufficient light the plants will get “leggy” or “spindly”, denying them a healthy start on the way to your garden. Even in a bright window with a lot of sun you may still need to use artificial light. If you do need to use artificial light, buy bulbs that are manufactured specifically for that purpose. Even though they are for the singular purpose of growing plants you still must keep them on for at least fourteen (14) hours a day. No artificial light can compensate for the intensity of direct sunlight.

The most important element of growing your seedlings indoors is watching the moisture. They must be kept moist but not soggy. The most advantageous way to water is from the bottom. Set your pots in a tray and pour the water into the tray allowing the pots to soak up all of the water. Never let your pots stand in water as this will cause them to rot. If you have your pots in a very sunny window place them in a tray with gravel. Keep the gravel “watered” just under the pots to keep them from drying out.

When you first start your seedlings cover them tightly with plastic wrap. This helps to maintain warmth and moisture, but be careful to uncover them when they begin to sprout so they don’t smother.

I know you may become anxious in January to start getting ready for planting season but it is important not to start you seeds indoors to early. If they outgrow your pots, you will have to thin them and transplant them to bigger containers. This is not the best scenario. For best results, you want to transplant them once outdoors as soon as they are large and healthy enough to survive. A good rule of thumb to start with is four to six weeks after sowing the seeds, making sure they have at least two sets of leaves. Right before transplanting your thriving seedlings, feed them with a very weak solution of a water soluble fertilizer to give them strength through the transplanting process.

Keep a diary on what has worked for you, since experience is always the best teacher. Experiment a little each year with one or two new flowers, herbs or vegetables, this will add variety and spice to your garden. Go to gardening forums on the internet and join the group, the experiences of others is always helpful and the spirit of community is enjoyable and satisfying.

Happy Planting!

Copyright © 2006 Mary Hanna All Rights Reserved.

This article may be distributed freely on your website and in your ezines, as long as this entire article, copyright notice, links and the resource box are unchanged.

Mary Hanna is an aspiring herbalist who lives in Central Florida. This allows her to grow gardens inside and outside year round. She writes eBooks, Software Reviews and Practical Articles on Gardening and Cooking. Please visit her websites at: http://www.GardeningLandscapingTips.com http://www.GardeningOutside.com and http://www.ContainerGardeningSecrets.com or contact her at mailto:mhanna@gardeninglandscapingtips.com

As a home gardener, fall should be a very special time for you. Fall is the best season of the year for plant propagation, especially for home gardeners who do not have the luxury of intermittent mist. The technique that I am going to describe here can be equally effective for evergreens as well as many deciduous plants.

The old rule of thumb was to start doing hardwood cuttings of evergreens after you have experienced at least two hard freezes. After two hard freezes the plants are completely dormant.

However, based on my experience it is beneficial to start doing your evergreen cuttings earlier than that. So instead of doing “by the book” hardwood cuttings you’re actually working with semi-hardwood cuttings. The down side to starting your cuttings early is that they will have to be watered daily unless you experience rain showers. The up side is that they will start rooting sooner, and therefore are better rooted when you pull them out to transplant them.

To prepare an area in which to root cuttings you must first select a site. An area that is about 50% shaded will work great. Full sun will work, it just requires that you tend to the cuttings more often. Clear all grass or other vegetation from the area that you have selected. The size of the area is up to you. Realistically, you can fit about one cutting per square inch of bed area. You might need a little more area per cutting, it depends on how close you stick the cuttings in the sand.

Once you have an area cleared off all you have to do is build a wooden frame and lay it on the ground in the area that you cleared. Your frame is a simple as four 2 by 4’s or four 2 by 6’s nailed together at each corner. It will be open on the top and open on the bottom. Just lay it on the ground in the cleared area, and fill it with a coarse grade of sand.

This sand should be clean (no mud or weed seed), and much coarser than the sand used in a play box. Visit your local builders supply center and view each sand pile they have. They should have different grades varying from very fine to very coarse. You don’t want either. You want something a little more coarse than their medium grade. But then again it’s not rocket science, so don’t get all worked up trying to find just the right grade. Actually, bagged swimming pool filter sand also works and should be available at discount home centers.

Once your wooden frame is on the ground and filled with sand, you’re ready to start sticking cuttings. Wet the sand the day before you start, that will make it possible for you to make a slit in the sand that won’t fill right in. In this propagation box you can do all kinds of cuttings, but I would start with the evergreens first. Taxus, Junipers, and Arborvitae.

Make the cuttings about 4” long and remove the needles from the bottom two thirds of the cuttings. Dip them in a rooting compound and stick them in the sand about an inch or so. Most garden centers sell rooting compounds. Just tell them that you are rooting hardwood cuttings of evergreens.

When you make the Arborvitae cuttings you can actually remove large branches from an Arborvitae and just tear them apart and get hundreds of cuttings from one branch. When you tear them apart that leaves a small heel on the bottom of the cutting. Leave this heel on. It represents a wounded area, and the cutting will produce more roots because of this wound.

Once the weather gets colder and you have experienced at least one good hard freeze, the deciduous plants should be dormant and will have dropped their leaves, and you can now propagate them. Just make cuttings about 4” long, dip them in a rooting compound and stick them in the bed of sand. Not everything will root this way, but a lot of things will, and it takes little effort to find out what will work and what won’t.

This is a short list of just some of the things that root fine this way. Taxus, Juniper, Arborvitae, Japanese Holly, Blue Boy/Girl Holly, Boxwood, Cypress, Forsythia, Rose of Sharon, Sandcherry, Weigela, Red Twig Dogwood, Variegated Euonymus, Cotoneaster, Privet, and Viburnum.

Immediately after sticking the cuttings thoroughly soak the sand to make sure there are no air pockets around the cuttings. Keep the cuttings watered once or twice daily as long as the weather is warm. Once winter sets it you can stop watering, but if you get a warm dry spell, water during that time.

Start watering again in the spring and throughout out the summer. The cuttings should be rooted by late spring and you can cut back on the water, but don’t let them dry out to the point that they burn up.

By fall you can transplant them to a bed and grow them on for a year or two, or you can plant them in their permanent location. This technique takes 12 months, but it is simple and easy.

You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter. Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

Landscaping is a big task, consuming much time and energy. It also provides a great sense of accomplishment, well being and is a great source of energy. But before you hire that professional, here are some tips that could save both time and money.

1. Spend time thinking about the design to want for your home. Consider the style and function of your landscape and home. Do you want to include an area for entertaining? A barbeque? How about an area for the children to play, a fish pond or a swimming pool? What plants do you want and where or when is you landscape going to get the most foot traffic.

2. Think before hiring a pro. An independent designer might cost you hundreds of dollars or you may be able to do some research on the internet or local garden center. But if you have an awkward landscape challenge such as steep grade, a landscape designer might give you the expertise to save costly mistakes.

3. The style of your house must be taken into account. If you have a rural cottage, formal gardens surrounding it will look out of place. Think also about your lifestyle. Do you have the time to maintain flowering annuals or prune beds of roses? If so, go ahead and plant them, but if you’d rather spend your free time at the beach, then you should consider a low maintenance design.

Here are the various landscape styles you can choose for your garden:

Formal: This style uses lots of straight lines and perfect geometrical shapes. Orderly arrangement of plants instead of random positioning is employed. Close arrangement and pruning and lot of maintenance is required to maintain the formal and structured appeal.

Informal: This kind of landscaping works best for cottages or more rural settings. Flower beds with curved edges i and random placement of plants suit this landscape style.

English Garden: This style emphasizes the harmony between the house’s architecture and the garden. It is important to consult a landscape designer to get the best results.

Formal/Informal Garden: This style usually includes a brick walkway that exudes formality. This walkway leads to the rear with a circle of plants, and the arrangement of plants resembles the English garden without formal borders.

Oriental: Often the preferred garden for small backyards. It includes rocks, evergreens and water features. A wide variety of plants create several interesting angles with this style.

Woodland: This landscaping suits a house that has a wooded backyard and sloping ground.

Bill McRea is the publisher of Garden Facts for home owners and Guitar Playing Techniques. Both sites offer free lesson and product sales.

What could smell or look lovelier than a vase full of stunning roses? With just a little care, they can last a very long time in a vase.

5 Tips For Cutting Roses

1. Wait until after 3 p.m. to cut, when their nutrient levels are the highest.

2. Choose buds that have just started to open, only 1/3 to 1/2 of the way through the process. Once a bud has fully opened, it’s too late to cut.

3. Always use a sharp, clean pair of shears. Dull shears crush the stem, and dirty shears can transmit diseases.

4. Don’t remove all of the leaves — keep at least 3 to help feed the bloom. Remove only leaves that will be below the water level of the vase.

5. Once you have finished cutting all the roses for the day, bring them inside to begin the water conditioning and hardening process.

9 Tips For Preserving Roses

Now that they are cut, the clock starts ticking.

The first threat to a cut rose’s health is the air pocket that entered the stem when you cut the rose outdoors. It will work its way up to the stem, cutting off the nutrient supply and shortening the bloom’s life.

1. Replace that air with water. The easiest way is to fill a bowl with hot tap water, as hot as you can stand to put your hands into.

2. Add any floral preservative you use, plus a few drops of bleach.

3. Place all of the rose stems into the bowl without the buds touching the hot water.

4. Use your shears to cut 1/4 inch off the end of each stem.

5. Leave the roses in the bowl until the water cools to room temperature.

6. Fill your vase with warm water, add a drop or 2 of bleach, and some preservative.

7. Finally add your roses.

8. Whenever the water starts to get cloudy, remove the roses, refill the vase with warm water, add another drop or 2 of bleach, and return the roses to the vase at once.

9. When the blooms begin to show signs of wilting, re-cut about an 1/8 of an inch from the stems and place them in hot water for an hour before returning them to the vase.

This little bit of extra work will vastly extend the vase life of your cut roses. Roses can live for an amazingly long time in a vase if you will help them.

Ron King is a full-time researcher, writer, and web developer. Visit Grow-Roses-Now.com to learn more about this fascinating hobby.

Copyright 2005 Ron King. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact.

One option that adds significant appeal to a water garden is a pond spitter. Fountain pond spitters are artistic and whimsical ways to decorate your outdoor space and accentuate your waterscape. A spitter not only helps to circulate water, but it also incorporates the soothing splashing sound of water in your backyard, while adding a visually-appealing backdrop upon which to set your pond.

Fountain spitters can vary in size from 5’ tall statues to miniature spitters that are 10’ in height. They can be used as both statues and fountains, and are often manufactured from brass or plastic. Spitters that are manufactured from brass are known to not rust or decay over time. They will become more beautiful with age, as they are exposed to the elements (and are even salt-water resistant).

However, large brass statues can be extremely expensive (I.e. they can cost several hundred dollars). For those who want to pursue a more affordable option, plastic spitters may be ideal. Plastic spitters and statues are viable alternatives that have sufficient weight to not be affected by the elements, and are manufactured from plastic resins that make them resistant to decay over time.

All fountain spitters require a submersible re-circulating pump in order to draw the water from the pond, through a plastic hose, and into the attachment of the spitter. The water will run through the tubing inside the sculpture and flow back into the pond, thus re-circulating the water. It is extremely important that you find a pump that has a powerful enough head (I.e. maximum pumping height) to accommodate your statue, and that you obtain a pump and a spitter which can accommodate the same size of tubing.

Algreen’s line of spitter kits give you the option of a duck, fish, or turtle, each which will spit sparkling streams of water into your water garden. Each resin spitter is painted with a beautiful patina finish, and comes complete in a kit with a properly sized pump, and the hosing required to connect the pump to the spitter. At 10’ in height, these spitters are both extremely affordable and durable; they are the perfect accent for your small backyard water garden.

For more information about Algreen’s fountain spitter kits and other water gardening accessories, please go to http://www.buypond.com.

I made a discovery. You see, I love flowers and plants, but there is limited yard space where I live, so I thought that I would have to be content with admiring the lush gardens and greenery of others’ gardens. Then I discovered the concept of container gardening.

Well, actually, the concept of container gardening has been there all along - I had just never really thought about it or considered that it could be the answer to my gardening woes. But, once I discovered it, I decided to give it a try, and I am quite pleased with the results.

If you to try container gardening and want your garden to be successful, you should choose good containers for your plants. But how do you know if the container you want to use is right for your plant?

First of all, use your imagination to choose containers for your garden. You can plant in old bathtubs, crocks, barrels, baskets, bowls, wooden boxes, and sacks - just about anything. I’ve even seen someone use an old commode - yuck! However, there are things to consider when you’re trying to choose suitable containers for your plants.

You should avoid choosing containers for your plants that have narrow openings - your plant is already contained, it needs as much room as possible to grow and thrive. You plant does not have access to the soil and room to spread out as much as in a traditional garden, so that means that you should not hinder its growth and development any further if you can avoid it.

Thinking about cheaper plastic pots? Don’t. These cheap plastic containers are more inclined to deteriorate in the sun. And if you’re thinking about terracotta pots for your garden, remember that clay pots dry out in the sun. This means you’ll have to be careful to water as often as necessary and make sure your plants are not getting overheated and drying out.

Glazed ceramic pots are an excellent choice, but often they do not have enough drainage holes in the bottom. So you’ll most likely have to add a few. If this is a problem, you will want to, at the least, add a 1-2 inch layer of gravel at the bottom of the container before adding your soil.

A lot of people like to use wooden containers for their gardens because these containers can be built to specification, but wood can rot easily. So you will want to choose woods that are less susceptible to this problem.

Some types of wood to consider are redwood and cedar. Also, you should be sure that the wooden container you’re using hasn’t been stained or painted - these chemicals are harmful to plants. You should also avoid wood that has been treated with creosote, penta or other toxic compounds - these are also harmful to plants.

When choosing the containers for your garden, size is also something that needs to be considered. Small pots are restrictive to the root system and dry out very quickly. They should only be used with plants that are very small and have shallow root systems.

If you’re growing more plants in your container, generally, you will need a larger, deeper container to compensate. And vegetables with deep roots will require deep pots.

Also, be sure to make sure your tallest plants are not to be more than twice the height of the container. And make note that the plant’s fullness does not spread over the edge of the container more than half the width of the container.

And again, drainage is important. Your containers should have an adequate number of holes to allow for proper drainage. Remember, drainage is hindered when you place your containers on solid surfaces such as concrete floors or brick patios. You can alleviate this problem by elevating your potted plants one or two inches above the floor on blocks of wood or placing them on a plant dolly.

Plant dollies are great for larger containers. They make moving your plants around your patio a breeze. No back problems for you…

Where the weather is very hot (such as the desert), you should choose lighter colored containers to reflect the sun and to prevent your plants from absorbing too much heat and drying out. This also helps to discourage uneven root growth.

If you’re using hanging baskets, line them with sphagnum moss to help retain some water. And keep these plants out of the hot, afternoon sun.

Well, that should get you started if you’re thinking about starting a container garden. Remember, the most important thing is to have fun and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

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It is difficult to determine a criterion, according to which a cultivated plant can be called fashionable. A new discovery of stock-breeders? A bright hybrid? An exotic, which settled in our latitudes recently? And may be this is a strange flower, which seeds you have been dreaming to find since you saw it in someone’s garden for the first time? Let’s hope a beginner will blend with your garden’s palette in harmony, and, very soon, it will attract delighted glances of neighbors and guests, who will definitely ask you: what is this?

A wonderful Aquilegia

Aquilegia (Àquilegia canadencia) presents her wonderful flowers with long spurs on thin graceful legs. Purple flowers (and in other sorts – violet, white and pink) appear in the beginning of summer. This flower spreads out in any garden, if it is not only too dry there, feels great in shadow or penumbra. A lot of various double forms are often met. Aquilegia propagates with seeds, sowed in spring and autumn.

Many-sided Clematis

Liana with goldish flowers (Niamatis Tangutica Golden Tiara) – is a great rarity among clematises and a real find for a flower-lover. Golden Tiara blooms in the middle of summer and makes its owners glad with long blossoming. Two-colored clematises (Clematis Roguchi) are met too, they turn their heads to a midday sun, like they are watching it. One of the oldest hybrids of clematis – is a light-pink Nelly Iiser, known to gardeners since 1897 and fashionable till now.

Arum nicknamed “Aaron’s rod”

When you imagine this plant, remember a well-known calla, a greenhouse plant with large flowers. A flower consists of one large white petal (veil), wrapping up an oblong ear. Arum’s (Àrisaema triphyllum) inflorescence is the same. An ear of yellow flowers is covered with a veil, not white, but multicolored – light-green, mahogany or striped. A plant’s height is about 40 cm, it is blossoming in May-June, and by autumn a veil fades and falls off, opening an ear with a bright-red, toxic berries. Arum needs a wet fertile soil in a shady place. It looks great on a bank of a small reservoir.

Pumpkin and co.

They are such heavy-weights! However, figures of various builds can be found among a nice gourd family. With a slender waist and in rich shapes, very long, like cucumber, and hanging on props, like pears. The most impressive specimens grow on super fertile compost storage barrows in the corners of garden-plots, wherefrom they are rolled, not even brought, home in autumn. Every year – we meet new styles: turban, beret, skull-cap. A natural, quaint ornamental pattern also impresses: one half is green, and another - yellow. All pumpkins are light- and heat-loving. Seedlings are prick off in a house and brought to a garden in the end of May-beginning of July. The best places for decorative pumpkins – are lattice fences, columns, arbors.

Morning-glory – a flower for “larks”

Jolly small gramophones of this wonderful convolvulus can be seen in many gardens. Its time is morning. It opens its charming flowers with the first sun beams, and by 10 am they are already faded. Lots of sorts of morning-glory are replenished by new colors every year. On a picture you can see really a “fashionable doings” – a stripped flower (Ipomoea Tie Dye). Stripped carnations have always been in fashion at all tames, and now strips on irises, marigolds, tulips, petunias and bluebells are fashionable. You can arrange an effective union of creepers in your garden, for example, morning-glory and pumpkin, since they both have the same requirements for growing (both plants are Southern ones).

Begonia

We are used to see begonia on our window, not in a garden. Various sorts of this flower have been decorating our houses at all tames, surprising us with a variety of colors and quaint cuts of leaves. In a garden, begonia is a summer guest. It can live the whole summer in a flower-bed, and in autumn it will return to its “winter apartment” - window-sill. In a garden begonia prefers shady places. Due to exotic coloring, it looks good on a small pedestal – on a small stump, stone or low whatnot. (Âågonia Chocolate Creme)

A thorny giant

This original biennial plant, called dipsacus (Dipsacus fullonum) reaches 1,5 in height. During the fist year of life it forms a large rosette of leaves with thorns at sides. And the following summer a stalk grows from the midst of leaves, and it begins twining, forming a candelabrum-like plant. On the edge of each stalk an original flower appears, which strikes with the fact that a bud in the form of oval cone is covered with a corbel of delicate lilac flowers. Dipsacus fades slowly, leaving a beautiful thorny cone, which can serve as an excellent material for winter bunches.

Ornamental cabbage

It appeared on our flower beds quite recently. Anyway, this unusual plant has become fashionable not so long ago, when lots of its sorts appeared. Sometimes passers-by stop at a fence at a loss – is this lacy creature just a cabbage? Yes, cabbage, but not usual, but ornamental one. There are specimens, resembling huge flowers, like they are in lacy jabots. Small rosettes are also met, 10 cm in diameter. And there are also real “large fans” of feather-like leaves, forming mighty plants of 1 m height. All ornamental cabbages are hybrids. So, do not try to get seeds: hybrids do not transmit their qualities by right of succession. (Osaka Pink u White Peacock)

Yana Mikheeva is the creator of the WomansPassions site for women and about women at http://www.womanspassions.com , it is an on-line resource for women and about women. Here you can find articles on various subjects, such as: diets, receipts, health, cellulite, figure, aromatherapy, wholesome food, psychology of relationships, pregnancy, parenting, fashion and many others. She also has a blog for women at http://www.womanspassions.com/blog/

Wicker patio furniture is among the most beautiful and comfortable outdoor furniture available. There is something dramatic and romantic about it that makes wicker quite unique. It is a type of furniture that is in its own category.

If you are thinking of buying wicker outdoor furniture, then here are some pointers and tips. This will make it possible for you to buy and use wicker like a pro:

Considerations Before Buying

Natural wicker is not one of the stronger types of furniture. Therefore, natural wicker furniture is appropriate for adults that are less than 200 lbs each, and for families without overly rambunctious children. Except for these limitations, your natural wicker furniture will provide long service.

Those concerned with these limitations may wish to consider vinyl or plastic wicker. The frames are usually tougher because they use metal, not rattan as with natural wicker furniture, and vinyl or plastic wicker looks remarkably like the real thing.

Here are some pointers:

1) Where to place wicker furniture. Wicker is damaged by exposure to moisture and to excessive sunlight. Therefore, natural wicker outdoor furniture is best placed in a covered area. Good locations include a covered porch, patio, or deck, in a gazebo, or in a cabana.

2) Know how much space is available. Furniture should never be congested. Before buying patio furniture, first decide where you want the furniture to be positioned. From this you will be able to better estimate what size furniture will fit.

Be especially careful with larger pieces. If you want a dinning table with six chairs, make sure you have the room. The same is true with a chesterfield or sofa. It simply isn’t fun to manoeuvre around a patio with too much furniture and not enough walking space.

3) Only buy wicker furniture that is factory-assembled. Because wicker is not easy to work with, it is wise to buy all wicker furniture fully pre-assembled. If you assemble the furniture yourself, take special care with the joints. Most problems with home assembly usually involve instability because of poor joint connections.

4) Don’t forget to budget for covers for your new furniture. Wicker should be kept dry, so if wicker is placed in an uncovered area, it should be brought inside when it rains or completely covered. Covers for all sizes of patio furniture are easily available online.

5) Work out in your mind delivery and placement logistics. Thinking this through before delivery will save you time and trouble.

Care

Wicker patio furniture will require some maintenance. Once a month, the wicker and cushions should be vacuumed using the vacuum’s soft brush, then wiped with a damp cloth.

At least once a year wash your wicker, cushions, and frame using a mild detergent in lukewarm water, use a sponge. Rinse well with clear water and dry with soft cloths. Allow to finish drying in the sun.

Removing Mildew

Mildew is a thin growth that is actually a plant. It is caused by very warm temperatures and humidity. Mildew on wicker is usually easy to control. A good washing will usually do the trick.

Using a mild detergent in lukewarm water and a sponge, wash your wicker, cushions, and frame thoroughly. Rinse well with clear water and dry with soft cloths. Allow to finish drying in the sun.

This will often be enough. However, if mildew stains remain I recommend one of two options:

1) Moisten the stained area with lemon juice, then rub salt into the stain. Do not rinse. Allow it to dry in the sun. After drying, rinse off the lemon juice and salt by rinsing well with clear water, then dry with cloths. Allow to finish drying in the sun. Test on colored cushion fabrics first.

2) In one quart of warm water, mix in two tablespoons of chlorine bleach. Sponge the solution onto the stain area, or dip the stain area into the mixture. Allow to stand for 15 minutes, and then rinse with clear water. Dry with dry cloths. Allow to finish drying in the sun. Test on colored cushion fabrics first.

Note: Never use chlorine bleach on wool or silk. Other wash-and-wear fabrics or fabrics with special finishes may be damaged by chlorine bleach. Look for a warning tag attached to the cushion. (Bleach action can be stopped quickly by soaking the item with a solution of two tablespoons of vinegar for each cup of water.)

With these treatments you should have little problem with mildew.

Repainting Wicker

If you need to repaint wicker furniture, completely clean your furniture first, dry with cloths. When completely dry, slightly sand only those areas that are needed.

Painting with a paint brush can be tricky and slow. It is best to use a sprayer or spray cans of paint to apply paint evenly and without drips. Only use paint in a well ventilated area.

Summary

Natural wicker patio furniture can be a beautiful addition to any patio or porch. With a little thoughtful care you can expect to enjoy your new wicker furniture for many years to come.

Sebastian Van Deyck is a successful writer and a noted authority that writes for Better Patio Furniture providing helpful tips and practical advice for the online shopping of outdoor furniture including wicker patio furniture. His articles offer moneysaving tips and valuable insight.

Traditionally, liner kits have presented many difficulties for the beginner pond gardener. Since every liner pond shape is different, pond gardeners must customize their own pond, ensure that it is level, and ensure that it does not have excessive wrinkling. A flexible preformed pond, on the other hand, is easy to install. The flexible preformed shell already has a pre-defined shape, yet it is easily transportable, since a typical folding kit comes in a box that can fit into your car truck (I.e. it is one-sixth the size of a regular preformed kit). Thus, installation involves merely removing the pond from the kit, unfolding it, digging a hole, and inserting the pond shell into the hole.

One common complaint of customers in the past has been that flexible pond shells have been difficult to unfold. To address this problem, as of January 2006, Algreen Products has introduced a new line of flexible preformed pond kits which are manufactured from a novel blend of rubber, nylon, and plastic. Using the new rubber-based composite, Algreen’s ponds are now extremely easy to unfold. Because of the flexibility offered by the rubber component, which is supplemented by the stiffness offered by the plastic component, the ponds are also many times more resistant to breakage and wear.

According to Melissa Mulligan, sales and marketing director at Algreen Products, “This new innovation makes our flexible ponds easier to unfold, more durable, and more resistant to wear and breakage this composite will revolutionize the preformed pond business.”

Algreen is currently incorporating the proprietary composite material into their line of folding pond shells and streamlets. The new pond shells and streamlets are being introduced in a black colour, and are currently available from www.buypond.com. The composite has also been introduced in their 144 gallon granite pond kits.

Each Algreen pond kit comes complete with:

• A rubber/plastic composite pond shell and streamlet (sizes detailed above).
• A SuperFlo submersible pump with a built-in pre-filter, telescopic riser, and a diverter.
• Fountain heads that allow you to set up a fountain in the middle of your pond.
• Tubing and clamps.
• 2 silk pond lilies.
• A 20-year manufacturer’s warranty on the pond/streamlet, and a 2-year manufacturer’s warranty on the pump.
• A free SuperGlo underwater light!

For more information about preformed ponds, please go to http://www.gardenSM.com.

The Adirondack chair is the classic mainstay chair of the cottage and patio. Although the name may be new to you, it prabably wasn’t to your grandparents. For it was in the early 1900’s that what was originally called the "Westport chair" became popular. West port is a small town in the Adirondack Mountains in upstate New York. Within a few years, the Westport chair was renamed the Adirondack chair.

Its popularity is due to the ingenious design that makes it so comfortable. It’s noted for several features that mark it as unique. The chair’s back is slanted at the perfect angle for dozing off for an outdoor nap. The wide side arms is ample room for a newspaper, book, and a cool summer drink. As a snooze tempter, time seems to disappear when things are so nice.

The Adirondack chair is a very rustic design that easily fits into any traditional decor. Its the perfect type of chair for the patio, deck, or porch. Some folks like to place one or two on a back lawn under a large tree where it becomes like a welcoming becon for a nice rest.

Finishes

Everyone wants their chairs to look good. Today there are many more finish options available than the original dark green or brown paint offerred on the original chairs.

Today, these wooden chairs come in a variety of finishes. They are available:

1. Painted with an ultra-sheek latex enamel that is non-toxic and mixed with SPF agents to resist fading.

2. Finished with a clear poly to allow the chairs to show its grain.

3. Finished with a UV protected stain to allow the chairs to age a bit more slowly. Or

4. En naturale, meaning no finish treatment is applied. This option works with teck which contains natural oils that resists the elements very well.

If you select to have Adirondack chairs painted, there are several techniques to consider:

1. A pristine finish is the usual technique, meaning they are painted in a solid color.

2. A distressed finish means that after the paint dries, the chair is slightly sanded in selected areas to enhance the grain and give it an antique look.

3. A washed finish means the entire chair is sanded to give a more weathered or antique look.

Remember that painted and stained chairs will need periodic maintenance. If that is a problem then you may wish to consider plastic. Then all you’ll need to do a little cleaning.

Adirondack chairs are handsome, durable and they are built to last. Like a becon, they’re immediately identified by those passing by as an always-ready invitation to relaxation.

Sebastian Van Deyck is a successful writer and a noted authority that writes for Better Patio Furniture providing helpful tips and practical advice for the online shopping of outdoor furniture including Adirondack Chairs. His articles offer moneysaving tips and valuable insight.