Greenhouses are available in all shapes and sizes, and take forms that vary from the conservatory to an enclosed glass porch around the front door. All are very useful for the hobby gardener and can accommodate a surprisingly large number of plants of all kinds.

Modern greenhouses basically come in four forms; the lean-to, in which one wall is formed by the home or other substantial building; the span roof type, which is built on a dwarf wall and has a pitched roof; the Dutch light kind, formerly constructed of Dutch lights but in the modern form a glass-to-ground greenhouse, and the hexagonal type that is, broadly speaking, dome-shaped but with angular sides. All have their adherents, but it is generally conceded that the span roof type of greenhouse proves to be the most versatile when a wide range of plants are to be grown.

Greenhouses can be constructed from many different materials. Polyethylene structures are cheap to purchase initially, but need re-covering every two years and in winter will often suffer wind or snow damage. Those made from corrugated acrylic sheet are little better, cracking and discoloring with the weather, although polycarbonate materials are more durable and can be recommended.

Glass is obviously the most satisfactory option, but the best material for the framework is more difficult to decide. Cedar and teak that are kept well oiled are obviously ideal, but very expensive, while ordinary softwood painted white looks good but has a very limited life.

Aluminium would seem to be the best answer as it does not rust, but with some greenhouses the bolts and screws holding the structure together are made from steel and are liable to corrode. So inspect any intended purchase of this kind very carefully, and select an all aluminium model.

Ideally staging should be provided at waist height down either side of the greenhouse and a shelf near the ridge is very useful if this can be kept above head height. Ventilation must be adequate and most gardeners agree that both side and ridge ventilators are essential for proper airing during the summer months. A good wide door is necessary for easy management. It should be wide enough to take a wheel-barrow without skinning your fingers and with no troublesome step or ramp.

Heating is desirable, but may be prohibitively expensive. If you do decide to heat your greenhouse then purchase an electrical fan heater. Not only does this provide warmth, but it also circulates the air on damp days in the fall. In the summer the fan can be switched to the cool air position to reduce the high temperatures and provide air circulation. Propane gas and kerosene heaters, although very reliable, are not so desirable as they produce a damp heat, and by virtue of their mode of operation do not readily circulate the air.

If you are able to afford to heat your greenhouse, it also makes sense to insulate it to minimize heat loss. There are many methods of doing this, but the clear plastic bubble insulation material now available is simple to fix and rarely causes any problems with condensation. Clear polyethylene has always been considered to be the most suitable insulation, causing minimal reduction in light and trapping a barrier of air. However, it has always been associated with condensation, a build up of light-reducing algae, and a fragility which is not so evident in modern clear bubble insulation.

Whatever insulation you choose, it is important when fastening it to the internal structure of the greenhouse that provision is made for the opening of ventilators. Insulation may well still be useful at night during spring, but on sunny days the temperature will soar and full ventilation may be necessary. If you cannot afford to heat your greenhouse, then consider investing in either a small propagator or a heated bench. Both are very useful and give the greenhouse much greater versatility.

Correct siting of the greenhouse is vital if plants are to develop properly. Choose an open part of the garden in full sun. It is a simple matter to shade a modern small greenhouse if the sun becomes too bright. The uncontrollable shade of a tree or building on the other hand can lead to very poor and disappointing plant growth.

Philip Swindells has over 40 years gardening experience. A former botanical garden curator and an international horticultural consultant, he has worked extensively in the UK, North America, the Middle East and Australia. The Author of more than 50 gardening books, he has been awarded a Quill and Trowel Award by the Garden Writers’ Association of America. He is also a former UK Garden Writer of the Year. He manages a free global seed exchange for gardeners at http://seedmessenger.com

For a homeowner who doesn’t necessarily spend much time in their garden but wants to enjoy it from above, taking into account the garden views from upstairs windows and/or decks will help in dictating the planting plan.

In San Francisco, where garden space is typically 30’ X 30’, people look to maximize the design effects: creating outdoor rooms with patios, paths, fountains and arbors. The same is true with a garden that is mainly viewed from an upstairs deck or window. One example is a garden that we have been maintaining and restoring for over a year. The objective is that homeowner be able to see as much of the garden as possible from the 2nd and 3rd story decks. See: http://www.everything-patio-furniture.com/garden-arbors.htm

An existing 35’ Podocarpus tree adjacent to the deck requires annual pruning and is due to be thinned and reduced on our next visit in October. While we typically schedule an arborists to prune trees larger than 25’, deck access from the homeowner and neighbor’s property make it possible for us to safely work on the tree.

Once the Podocarpus has been pruned the garden will require only minimal adjustments for the next 8 to 10 months. In the past year, we have pruned several Plum trees along the fence line and through out. At this point, they are in far better aesthetic shape: having opened up the garden as well as enhanced views.

Tip pruning the canopy and select branches of Angel’s Trumpet: Datura, is also necessary throughout spring and summer for maintaining the deck views of the rear planting areas. Although this tree is frost tender in many climates, we are fortunate that it thrives in the Bay Area, and that there are several nice varieties to choose from.

Badly formed plants such as the leggy growing, purple flowering Princess Tree: Tibouchina, are also candidates for a severe heading back. While this pruning technique leaves the tree looking hacked and butchered for several months afterwards, on a healthy specimen, dormant buds will grow from the woody stumps creating a new floriferous head.

As with all gardens, the seasons bring about changes, creating new expressions. With fall upon us, our job for view enhancement is nearly complete, once the Podocarpus tree is pruned. After that, we will have many months to concentrate on the under story and plantings.

Nicole Martins is a contributing author and publisher to http://www.everything-patio-furniture.com an online resource that provides you with information, articles of interest and reviews of the best selling outdoor furniture and patio accessories online.

The successful management of a hobby greenhouse depends upon following simple rules regularly and applying common sense. A greenhouse is a responsibility rather like a dog or cat, for no day goes by without its inhabitants demanding some attention.

Regular watering may seem obvious, but it is surprising how many gardeners water when they have to, to the detriment of the plants. Good stable growth can never be achieved by irregular watering.

A humid atmosphere is beneficial, especially during the summer months. Regular spraying of the path and gravel under the benches helps. Avoid getting water on the foliage of plants during hot sunny weather. The droplets of water serve as small magnifying glasses during bright sunshine and the leaf tissue beneath becomes scorched.

During the late spring and peak summer period the greenhouse must be provided with some kind of shading. Roller blinds are expensive, but very effective, although most of the sun shade products that are mixed with water and applied with a brush are equally functional, if not as visually pleasing.

Ventilation should be applied freely during warm weather and moderately during cooler periods. The free circulation of air amongst plants helps to reduce the incidence of common fungal diseases like botrytis.

During the duller days of winter and early spring ensure that maximum light is admitted to the greenhouse. Clean the glass in the fall and then again during early spring. Cleanliness is important in all parts of the structure if pests and diseases are to be successfully controlled. The thorough cleaning of the rafters, brickwork and other fixtures during the winter with a strong garden disinfectant will pay dividends.

Dead leaves and discarded plants should be disposed of regularly and should not be allowed to accumulate beneath the staging where they will harbor pests and diseases. Regular cleaning and maintenance results in healthy plants and a trouble-free structure in which to produce them.

One of the on-going activities in a well managed greenhouse is re-potting. This applies to all permanent plants and those that are growing on and need periodic removal to a larger pot size. Some flowering plants like pot chrysanthemums and primulas are completely exhausted after flowering and are best discarded rather than re-potted. They rarely regain their former glory.

Re-potting often causes some consternation, particularly to new gardeners, for there is believed to be a certain mystique surrounding the operation and an uncertainty as to when to perform it. It is obviously better to re-pot a plant just before it needs it, but the beginner may have difficulty in recognizing just when that is, so plants are often allowed to go beyond that point and start to deteriorate.

Paleness of foliage and gaunt appearance is the overall aspect of a plant that is in need of re-potting. The pot-ball will be hard and congested, often with roots pushing out through the drainage holes of the pot. The compost surface will also probably have a stale look about it heightened by the presence of mosses or liverworts.

When re-potted, pot-bound plants rapidly recover from their ordeal, but it is better to catch them before they go into decline so that strong healthy growth can continue unchecked. During the active growing period do not be frightened to turn a plant out of its pot and inspect the root-ball. There is no need to pull it about, but a regular inspection will indicate whether everything is in good order.

Do not pay too much regard to the concentrated presence of roots towards the sides of the pot, for it is quite natural for them to gravitate there. It is not necessarily an indication that the plant must be re-potted. Similarly roots that push through the drainage holes may not always indicate congestion within the pot, for if the pot has been stood on a gravel tray in moist conditions it is quite normal for roots to probe around outside.

The best way to tell whether a plant needs re-potting is to pinch the root-ball with your fingers. If there is any flexibility in the compost it shows that the pot-ball has not been completely ramified by roots and therefore nothing need yet be done. If the root-ball feels hard and solid, then re-potting is clearly a matter of priority. Re-potting is also necessary if you spot tiny flies jumping around on the surface of the compost. These are feeding on decomposing organic matter in a compost that has passed its useful life. They disappear immediately after re-potting.

Most greenhouse plants need feeding if they are to give of their best. This is most effective when they are in active growth, either immediately after they have started to sprout or following the formation of flower buds. The feeding program is different for individual plant types, but the exact rates that should be used will be found on the containers of modern proprietary plant foods. The levels of nitrate, phosphate and potash are also noted, so that a suitable feed can be chosen depending upon whether it is to be directed to fruit and flower production or foliage and root development.

It is important to introduce a general spraying program to the greenhouse. Irrespective of the plants being grown, insect pests and fungal diseases will appear. Check carefully that the fungicide and insecticide mix so that you can spray in one go. Instructions will be clearly stated on the package. These will also indicate any plant sensitivity to the product.

Systemic pesticides are the only ones that can be used for such a spraying program. These are absorbed by the foliage, taken into the sap stream of the plant and serve as an inoculation. To maintain the protection, spraying will be required every three weeks or so. There are certain pests and diseases that are not controlled effectively by systemic products and these need dealing with individually with contact pesticides.

Philip Swindells has over 40 years gardening experience. A former botanical garden curator and an international horticultural consultant, he has worked extensively in the UK, North America, the Middle East and Australia. The Author of more than 50 gardening books, he has been awarded a Quill and Trowel Award by the Garden Writers’ Association of America. He is also a former UK Garden Writer of the Year. He manages a free global gardeners’ seed exchange at http://seedmessenger.com/

Early spring is a great time for transplanting trees and shrubs, but you must do so before they wake up. Transplanting a plant is a very traumatic experience for the plant if it is awake. It’s like doing surgery on a person while they are awake. Dormancy starts in the fall as soon as you experience a good hard freeze, and the plants remain dormant until the weather warms up in the spring. This is when you should transplant, while the plants are dormant.

You can transplant in the spring up until the plants leaf out. When the buds are green and swollen you are usually safe to still transplant, but once the leaf develops, you should wait until fall. When transplanting you can dig the shrubs out bare root, just make sure they are out of the ground for as short a time as possible, and keep the roots damp while out of the ground.

Make sure there are no air pockets around the roots when you replant them. When possible, it is always better to dig a ball of earth with the plants when you transplant them. The rule of thumb is 12” of root ball for every 1” of stem caliper. If the diameter of the stem of a tree is 2”, then you should dig a root ball 24” in diameter.

Don’t be afraid of cutting a few roots when you transplant. Just try not to cut them any shorter than the above guidelines allow. Cutting the roots will actually help to reinvigorate the plant. It’s a process simply known as root pruning. When the roots are severed, the plant then develops lateral roots to make up for what is lost. These lateral roots are more fibrous in nature, and have more ability to pick up water and nutrients.

Some nurseries drive tractors over the plants in the field with a device that undercuts the roots of the plant just to force the plant to develop more fibrous roots. This makes transplanting the plant the following year much more successful, and makes for a stronger and healthier plant.

The old timers root pruned by hand by forcing a spade in the ground around their plants. If you have a plant in your landscape that is doing poorly, a little root pruning while the plant is dormant could bring it around. It’s worth the effort.

You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter. Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com

One of the backbone plants in the perennial garden is the mid to late summer tall Phlox paniculata or tall garden Phlox. One of the newest varieties to get to your local garden centre is ‘Goldmine’. Aptly named because it will bring a rush of visitors to your garden with its bright magenta purple flowers held firmly above green and gold variegated leaves. Two older variegated forms, ‘Harlequin’ with its magenta blooms and cream yellow variegated leaves should be easily available while ‘Becky Towe’ with rose pink flowers over yellow and green leaves is equally desirable. The older variegated ‘Norah Leigh’ with its green and cream splashed leaves is an excellent foliage plant but those pale pink blooms wash out against the dramatic foliage.

If you are looking for a shorter phlox, you might want to search out ‘Little Laura’. The stunning rich violet purple blooms with white eyes are wonderful accents to any brighter colour in your perennial garden. At twenty-four inches tall, this plant will also serve as the focal centerpiece in any large perennial container. Keeping with our female names and short plants, let me suggest ‘Juliet’ for your new plant list. Again, she’s twenty-four inches tall with compact growth but with the softest pink flowers you can imagine. With some mildew resistance built into the breeding, this is an excellent mid-summer bloomer for both garden and large container.

And speaking of mildew resistant phlox, let me suggest you look for these three mildew-resistant stunning ladies of the midnight garden: ‘Miss Pepper’ is a soft-pink with rose eye growing to three feet tall while ‘Miss Elie’ is taller at forty inches and sports soft pink blossoms with a deep rose eye. Rounding out the misses is ‘Miss Kelly’ and her soft lilac blooms are edged in dainty white.

Install these plants in the full sun in well-drained soils. They will take some late afternoon shade but you’ll get better disease control if they receive full early morning sun in a well-ventilated location to dry the leaves off early in the morning. Feed early in the fall with a shovel of compost.

Doug Green, award-winning garden author, answers questions in his free newsletter at http://www.gardening-tips-perennials.com

Garden No. 1: The Japanese garden.

Creating a Japanese garden is an interesting project because the Japanese garden design depends on symbolism as much as it depends on plant elements.

What is most important for a Japanese garden design is a prevailing notion of simplicity. There are a number of elements that make up a Japanese garden. These gardens often include water, a lantern, an island and a bridge.

A successful Japanese garden will inspire peace and contemplation. To enhance the atmosphere you may like to add a special place for you to sit, and contemplate.

Garden No. 2: The water garden.

Water gardens or aquatic gardens are especially popular because water has always been associated with serenity and peace. Water features in your garden can create a truly atmospheric place.

Water features are normally made up of three features: a pool, aquatic plants (submerged, like the water lily or floating, like the water hyacinth) and fish. Other decorative pieces, such as rocks, can be added and you can even build fountains and waterfalls for extra effect.

Garden No. 3: The English garden.

What is called an "English garden" refers to a style of "informal landscape gardening" that was popular, as the name reflects, in England over the last couple of centuries. There’s a lot of information available on the Internet to tell you what goes into an English garden. Some of the most popular items include a water feature and a sundial.

Whatever style of garden you wish to create please note: plan first. Things that are important to know before you start digging and planting include knowing what types of plants suit your climate. When your plants will flower is also important to know so that you don’t end up with a dull winter full of dormant plants. Water supply is probably the most important things to think about before your start. Speak to an expert about how to build a suitable irrigation system that will keep your plants well fed and keep your workload to a minimum.

Dakota Caudilla, journalist, and website builder Dakota Caudilla lives in Texas. He is the owner and co-editor of http://www.creative-garden-design.com on which you will find a longer, more detailed version of this article.

We all know about the basic Bonsai gardening, but that’s just the beginning. To really own a masterpiece Bonsai, one must require good styling skills. Styling in Bonsai trees can be broadly categorized according to the number of trunks they the tree has. This can be divided to single trunk and multiple trunks.

Single trunk styling
The single trunk styling in Bonsai can be further classified into four types namely, Formal upright, Slanting, Cascade, and Twisted style.

Formal upright bonsai gardening
The formal upright style is also called the Chokkan style. This style is adopted only by the experienced Bonsai artists. If you are a beginner you are advised not to go for this style. The Chokkan style is considered as the most complex style of Bonsai trees. Tachiki, Hokidachi, Sabamiki, Saramiki, Sekijoju, Ishitsuki, and Neagari are some the sub categories in the Chokkan style.

Bonsai gardening style for beginners
The slanting style called the Shakan style is more common for the beginners to use. In the slanting style all the branches can come to one side of the trunk (windswept style) or a few branches will come out of the top while the main trunk is long.

Cascade style of Bonsai gardening
The Cascade style or the Kengai style has the bottom trunk below the pot. The other trunks are formal upright. Two sub categories called the Formal cascade and the Semi cascade are available in this type. These are also called the Dai Kengai and the Han Kengai.

Twisted style of Bonsai Gardening
The twisted style is called the Bankan style, which is a favorite of the Chinese. This style is referred to as the dragon style, as the tree coils itself like a dragon. Sub categories to this style include partially twisted and the octopus style (where the branches twist around themselves).

Multiple trunks style
The multiple trunks style simply means this Bonsai has multiple plants in the same pot. The styles in these types include Soju style, Yose style, and the Korabuki style.

Soju style
with Soja style there are two trunks in a pot.

Yose style
Bonsais With more than two trunks are categorized as the Yose style. The Yose style also varies depending on the number of trunks that are available in the pot. 3, 5, 7, and 9 trunks are called, Sambon Yose, Gohon yose, Nanahon yose, and Kyuhon yose respectively.

Korabuki style
There are styles where the different trunks arise from the single root. A style called the Korabuki style is also a part of the multi trunk category. The style looks very different in that it looks as if the tree as fallen down and the branches of the tree look like individual trees.

Whatever be the style of your bonsai gardening it is necessary to maintain them properly with professional care.

Come and learn more about Bonsai trees at the net’s best Bonsai Tree care Blog.

Did I hear you correctly? You’re just "starting out" in the rewarding (and often exhausting) hobby of gardening? Think you’d like to grow your own vegetables, instead of limiting your choices to that natural-looking, neatly-arranged assortment of mostly foreign grown produce in the supermarket? Are you concerned that, in all likelihood, most supermarket vegetable offerings may contain substances (additives, pesticides, and other chemicals used in their production) over which you have absolutely no control, and that you’d prefer not to serve to your family?

Then you’re among a growing number of consumers with a yearning to take control over the quality and content of at least some of the food consumed, and have made a firm decision to grow their own. Below are some helpful tips for the health-conscious neophyte veggie gardener. . .tips not cast in stone, but ones that will improve your chances of success and satisfaction.

First, your new garden’s location. Most vegetables grow and mature best in full, uninterrupted sunlight. You’ve probably noticed that the big, profitable market-growers don’t have too many trees in and around their production fields. Eight to ten mid-summer hours is preferable, but that may be a bit difficult for many home-gardeners. Try for an absolute minimum of six full hours of direct sunshine during the brightest part of the day. Save the shady spot in your yard for the hammock. For the beginning vegetable grower, 650 to 1,000 square feet of space is manageable. Be careful not to bite off more than you can comfortably chew! If you find you need more space, you can always expand the following year.

If your new garden space is currently lawn or weeds, here’s a word or two of caution: tilled into the soil, crabgrass, Bermuda grass, dandelions, and many other aggressive weed species will re-grow from the tiniest fragment and quickly return to haunt any gardener. Take the time to remove all weeds — leaf, stem and root — before starting the garden. Most experts correctly recommend that you "peel" off the top two or three inches of turf before you begin preparing the soil to receive valuable seeds or transplants. And you should know that rototilling a patch of lawn is probably the most common and tragic mistake made by overly-enthusiastic novice gardeners.

Soil preparation is next. Don’t begin until the ground is drained well enough that a handful of soil squeezed into a lump breaks apart when dropped from about chin-high. Resist the temptation to disturb soil that’s gooey and sticks together. I’ve always preferred to prepare a new garden soil with a spade. . .and I like to drive that spade completely to the "hilt" and turn my soil upside-down — literally. That’s ten to twelve inches deep. Homeowner-size rototillers rarely have the ability to cultivate any deeper than four to six inches. Not enough!

Having said that, I’ve never been a fan or proponent of “double-digging” to the oft-proclaimed depth of 16 to 24 inches. Realistically, root systems of the overwhelming majority of common vegetables perform admirably in improved soils cultivated to a depth of a foot or so. Exhausting — and frequently discouraging — double-digging is not for me!

Soil that’s been lawn or field weeds, and hasn’t been cultivated for several years, is probably dirt-poor, so to speak. As you turn your new food-growing plot upside-down, mix in organic material such as compost or sterilized cow or horse manure to make it rich, deep and loamy. Three or four inches worked in deeply would be great! Peat moss can be used to break up heavy clay soils but should not be relied upon to add nutrition or beneficial biology to your soil. Peat moss is quite literally nutritionally and biologically dead and adds nothing of any lasting benefit to the soil.

Now’s the time for a soil test. A mailer and complete instructions are available at your local Cooperative Extension Service office. Cost for a test is in the range of about $12. . .good insurance for improving your chances of success right from the start! While at the Extension, ask about their selection of very helpful publications to help you get off on the right foot. Most are free.

Select your seeds, sets, transplants, and roots carefully and, based on your preferences, availability and quality. At nurseries or garden centers, never settle for tall, spindly vegetable transplants that are root bound, or appear to have been neglected in their tiny containers, or ones that have already begun to bloom or have set fruit. Those are "dead-end" — and the furthest thing from a bargain. Make your purchases early enough in the season to ensure strong, stocky plants that have a solid, healthy appearance and color. Reject any transplants that have excessively curled leaves, and those showing signs of nutritional deficiency (bronzing or yellowing of lower leaves, for example). And never accept young veggie plants from displays infested with aphids or small, winged, "gnats" or moths.

Most nurseries and garden centers will carry one or more lines of acceptable quality packaged seeds. Personally, I get my seeds from well-known and reliable local sources when possible, and I always stay away from the bargain racks at markets and those high-volume, high-traffic big-box stores. I like my seed fresh, and I take comfort in the assurance of optimal, carefully controlled storage conditions. Johnny’s Selected Seeds of Winslow, Maine (http://www.johnnyseeds.com) is, in my opinion, a good place to start.

Fertilizer is, of course, an important consideration. I prefer to avoid use of bagged, granular, non-natural mixtures for use in soil intended for producing my food. Yes, you can use the recommended 10-10-10 (a "balanced" commercial plant food), but for me, the jury is still out on the long-term health consequences of non-natural fertilizers and plant food. In my mind, a safer choice would be an organic mixture of naturally-occurring plant nutritional elements available at most large farm-’n-gardens and garden centers. Always follow directions printed on the package and the recommendations included in the results of your soil test. You’ll have a better grasp of just how much fertilizer and lime to apply once you have those results in-hand. Get the recommended fertilizer and any other suggested amendments thoroughly tilled-in a few days before you actually sow your seeds or plunk in your transplants.

There is actually more to achieving real success in the home vegetable patch. But now you have a basis from which to begin. You might like to read an 8-part series on vegetable gardening beginning at http://www.HillGardens.com/veggie-1.htm.

So, as soon as spring arrives, off you go! Enjoy your new garden — and keep a stiff upper lip, a smile on your face and a song in your heart! One final thought: don’t be afraid to ask questions. A successful neighborhood gardener is a tremendous resource. So also is the local library. And your state’s Cooperative Extension Service can put you in touch with a Master Gardener or two for some first-rate and accurate local gardening assistance.

While you’re at it, why not consider becoming a Master Gardener yourself? The Extension offers courses; the price is right; times are convenient; instruction is by top-notch professionals; and then you’ll be the expert — and successful! Hey!…what’s wrong with that?

Fred Davis is a Master Gardener, Master Composter, correspondent, lecturer, owner/operator of a popular 18-year-old perennial nursery in south-central Maine, and author of "Keys To The Garden Gate…Saying Some Things That Need To Be Said." He and Linda, his wife of 44 years, reside in Palermo, Maine and may be contacted by visiting http://www.HillGardens.com

Some simple gardening tips to keep your garden tip-top after the winter months

Sometimes getting into the garden and doing the simple things will be most beneficial to your garden.

The winter has lived up to being a cold and windy month (for most of us). However, with all the changes in the weather recently, who knows, we might get a heat wave soon. This is a good time to take stock and check the condition of trees and shrubs.

Recently planted stock should be checked to make sure that they are still firm in the ground. The frosts can kill the roots if exposed. If they are too unstable, support them with a suitable stake. Also make sure that existing staked trees don’t have their ties too tight.

The cold frosts can be your friend too. If you have heavy clay soil you should dig it over leaving it in big lumps. Pick a dry day when the soil itself is not too wet. A lawn that is prone to inadequate drainage will benefit from aeration. Ideally use a hollow tined fork (although an ordinary garden fork will do). This will remove small plugs of soil to a depth of about 6 inches, which can then be incorporated in the beds. If using a garden fork push it in to the full depth of the tines and wiggle it back and forth to leave holes. In each case immediately brush washed sharp sand all over the lawn, which will fill the holes. The area may look messy when you are finished but a shower of rain will soon clean it up.

Lawn Maintenance

DON’T FEED OR CUT YOUR LAWN YET.

Any reputable gardener will tell you that feeding your lawn too early will do it more harm than good.

Feeding the lawn causes fresh new young growth, which would be damaged by frost. The first feed should be no earlier than April and should be a lawn sand with a low level of feed, just enough to act as a tonic for the grass. Let it start the new season gently. Also don’t be tempted to cut the grass yet even if it started growing during the recent warm spell. Frost damage could again result.

Being a gardener is one of the most enjoyable experiences you can have. But remember to keep doing the simple things…. Your garden will pay you back for doing it.

Gary Milroy is a keen gardener and lawn care expert. He writes for the garden website http://www.gardens.aroundbritain.info.

His advice can help you make the most of your garden and become a better gardener.

If there are hummingbirds in your area, it’s easy to create a garden that will attract these pretty creatures. To build a habitat in which they will happily nest, you just need to provide them with the components they need: flowers, water, and safe nesting space.

Flowers are the key to attracting hummingbirds to your garden. An active hummingbird garden doesn’t need to be large, but it will have nectar-producing flowering plants that bloom at different times throughout the spring, summer and autumn. The tiny birds feed on nectar that is produced by flowers, particularly those with trumpet or tubular bright red and orange flowers. Among their other favorites are rhododendrons, azaleas and rose of Sharon bushes.

For northern gardens that attract the ruby-throated hummingbird, make sure that you choose plants that flower at different times during the blooming season to provide food for them throughout the spring, summer and fall. Hummingbird lures successful in northern climates include:

Spring Bloomers

Azaleas, rhododendrons and roses of Sharon make a great background for hummingbird gardens. They bloom early in the spring and continue blooming through the early summer. Pink and bright red varieties are favored, but hummingbirds love all rose of Sharon varieties.

Summer Bloomers

Bleeding hearts and red mountain columbine bloom in the early summer, as do petunias, morning glories, trumpet vines, trumpet honeysuckle, and impatiens. An expanse of shade-dappled impatiens is a powerful attraction for hummingbirds, who find their feeding grounds by sight.

Autumn Bloomers

Butterfly bush, day lilies, garden phlox, bee-balm and impatiens all will keep hummingbirds returning through the autumn and attract late migrators.

Hummingbirds also need tall spaces to perch and nest in your garden. By choosing a few taller bushes or trees, you can provide both. These provide shelter from predators and small branches for perching and resting.

Water is important to hummingbirds, but unlike larger birds, they will seldom take advantage of a bird bath or bowl of water. Instead, they relish cool mists. A garden hose with a misting attachment or a small fountain that can be adjusted to a fine mist will make them happy.

A few strategically placed hummingbird feeders can enhance your view of the hummingbirds as they hover and feed in your garden. There are dozens of commercial feeders designed to be attractive to the little wanderers. Choose feeders with bright red accents, and a capacity for about 8 ounces of sugar water. Rather than using one large feeder, place 2-4 of them around your garden, out of sight of each other if possible. Hummingbirds are notoriously territorial. By providing several private feeding stations, you’ll increase the number of hummingbirds that you attract.

Ed Rooney is the creator of http://www.garden-helper.com - an online gardening resource for gardeners to learn, share, plan, and shop for their gardens. Articles, forums, blog, plant fact sheets, zone maps, garden designs, garden business directories, shopping recommendations, recipes and more can all be found at http://www.garden-helper.com