The management of water and the maintenance of its quality is the most crucial element in successful water gardening. A garden pond is an almost self-contained ecosystem which only interacts with the atmosphere for the exchange of gases such as oxygen and carbon dioxide. The toxic wastes that are released into the water have to be broken down otherwise they soon reach levels which are harmful to fish and other aquatic creatures. There is a naturally occurring process called the nitrogen cycle which copes with all this, although it is a wise precaution to monitor the levels of key chemicals regularly.

It depends upon the size of the pond, and also the temperature, as to how easy it is to maintain water quality naturally. Still water becomes thermally stratified during the heat of the day, because the sun’s warmth is absorbed near the surface and cannot penetrate the depths. Small, shallow ponds may stratify when the day is warm, but return to a uniform temperature at night as the surface layers cool and mix with the lower layers. Such rapid changes can cause problems both with oxygen and the development of algal blooms.

With deep ponds changes are more likely to be seasonal than daily. In early spring a distinction develops between the warm upper layer and the cold layer near the floor of the pond. Between these layers there is a transitional zone. These all have an influence upon aquatic life, as the layers do not mix. The bottom layer at the pond floor receives no oxygen, but does benefit from organic debris which scatters into it from the upper layer. On the other hand, the uppermost layer receives none of the results of decay and by the end of the summer is nutrient deficient.

This can affect plants like floating aquatics which only live in that zone, one of the reasons why, in larger expanses of water, floating plants sometimes go into decline towards the end of the summer. These distinct zones remain until the turbulence created by fall winds mixes the various layers and they cool down.

With acidity and alkalinity, there can be considerable changes, depending upon the activities of pond life. In a pond, many chemicals dissolve into the water, and all these have an influence upon pH, which should ideally be monitored by periodic testing with a pH test kit. A pH value of between 7.0 and 8.0 is ideal for pond fish, although anywhere between 6.0 and 8.5 is acceptable. If the pH falls outside this range, pH adjusters should be used to stabilize it at a suitable level, and steps should be taken to find the cause.

One of the greatest influences upon pH can be the presence of algae, the pH value changing by as much as 3.0 between morning and evening. The reason for this is because algae uses carbon dioxide and removes carbonic acid from the water during the day, thereby raising the pH. At night algae ceases photosynthesising and produces carbonic acid, thus lowering the pH. So eliminating algae can have a considerable effect upon stabilizing pond acidity or alkalinity.

Philip Swindells has over 40 years gardening experience. A former botanical garden curator and an international horticultural consultant, he has worked extensively in the UK, North America, the Middle East and Australia. The Author of more than 50 gardening books, he has been awarded a Quill and Trowel Award by the Garden Writers’ Association of America. He is also a former UK Garden Writer of the Year. He is currently editor of http://www.internationalwatergardener.com

A fresh flower arrangement won’t last forever, but you can take some simple steps to prolong its beauty at least several extra days. In fact, you should expect long lasting flowers such as carnations, chrysanthemums, alstroemeria and even roses to last a full week to ten days. Spring or bulb flowers such as iris, tulips and daffodils should be expected to last three to five days.

Your first strategy for having flower arrangements in your house for the longest possible time is to carefully select the source of those flowers. Flowers should be purchased from a professional floral supplier who has insured that the flowers have been harvested, processed and shipped following all the best practices from the farm to the distributors and finally to you. There are several care and handling best practices, the most important being maintaining a temperature of 33-34 degrees F. Seemingly small delays in shipping, or even being placed on a truck next to a box of flowers that have not been pre-cooled can raise the temperature of the flowers in the subject box several degrees. Those couple of degrees means a couple of days off the vase life of the flowers.

All that being said, other than buying from a reputable, well educated floral distributor, there’s not much you can do to control any of that, so, let’s assume the flowers you’ve received have been treated well from farm to home. Now, what can you do to make the best of an already great thing?

Temperature: Keep your flowers away from heat sources and direct sunlight. Though it is not reasonable to keep flowers cool in the home as a florist would in a cooler, temperature still makes a big difference. Never display your arrangement on a radiator cover, above a heating vent, on a tv or other appliance that gives off heat, or in a window where the sun would heat the space.

Water: Be sure to replenish the water in the container regularly. Flowers that have been processed correctly will continue to transpire throughout their stay in your home. The flowers will need a source of water to keep the stems, foliage and petals turgid and fresh.

Food: On the plant, flowers get their nourishment to develop and grow from the roots and from photosynthesis. Off the plant, this process virtually stops. However, the flower will continue to develop, buds will open and flowers will expand. Some stems will even continue to grow. There is some reserve of sugar or food in the cut flower, but not as much as the flower will need for optimum performance and color. Florists use preservatives in the vase solution to provide this food. When you receive flowers in a box or loose, you should also receive a packet of preservative powder. Follow the mixing instructions on the packet to make a vase solution that will prolong the life of your flowers.

Control Bacteria: The water in the vase or container can quickly become a bacteria soup. All it takes is a few stray pieces of plant tissue and some latent bacteria. Add some sugar from the preservative and you’ve got a recipe for cloudy, smelly water. The problem is not just an aesthetic one. Bacteria in the water will form plugs in the stem of the flower, blocking the water from flowing through the stem of the flower. A good floral preservative contains an antibacterial agent to stop all of this from happening. One caution though. If you do not follow the instructions for mixing the vase solution, and end up making a solution that is too weak, you may be providing enough sugar to grow bacteria while not providing enough antibacterial agents to stop the growth. This is a case where clear water with no preservative would be better than an improperly mixed solution. As soon as you notice that the water in your vase has started to become cloudy, it’s time to dump the water, rinse the stems, give them a clean cut and put them back in the cleaned vase with fresh water. This alone will double the life of your flowers.

To order or send flowers online, please visit http://send-flowers-online.ws/

Karen Marinelli is a Floral Industry Professional with nineteen years of experience in the academic, retail and wholesale sectors of the industry. She believes the common goal should be to sell more flowers to more people, more often. http://send-flowers-online.ws/

Algae presents one of the greatest potential problems for the gardener with a pond. There are many different species of algae, but from a practical pond management point of view they can be conveniently divided into two groups: suspended and filamentous. Suspended algae are mostly primitive minute single-celled species that cause a green algal bloom in the water, turning it like pea soup. Filamentous algae includes species variously referred to as Spirogyra, Silkweed, Blanketweed and Mermaid’s Hair.

Although not an indication of an unhealthy pond, algae can cause the water gardener considerable distress, totally ruining the overall visual effect. Suspended algae that create an unpleasant bloom are usually seen during the spring, especially in temperate districts where the growth of higher forms of plant life during the winter has become virtually non-existent. There is a sudden greening of the water as it warms up. The primitive unicellular algae appearing almost immediately and continuing to proliferate until the higher and more evolutionarily developed plants take over.

Once growth starts and the submerged plants begin to utilize the nutrients in the water, thereby competing with the more primitive algae, they rapidly go into decline and the water becomes clear. However, at any time during the year a green algal bloom may appear if the natural balance of the pond is disturbed. In new ponds, where the aquatic plants have had little time to establish, suspended algae can be particularly troublesome. It is important to be patient and to allow them to become established. Providing that the formula for creating a balance of plants and fish has been adhered to, the pond will eventually clear.

Whatever happens resist the temptation to empty the pond of water and refill with fresh. This will temporarily alleviate the problem, but within a few days the water will return to its green state. Fresh tap water is rich in mineral salts, and so to some extent the water will have been fertilized. Never change pond water just because it is green if the plant balance in the pond is correct. Just be patient. However, a flocculating product which will temporarily sink the algae out of suspension and allow light to pass through the water, thereby accelerating the growth of submerged plants, is very useful.

Filamentous algae can be very persistent and troublesome. In the most severe cases, where the algae forms large floating mats or colonies, the lower parts of the algal mass begins to decompose through lack of light and creates an unpleasant smelling brown or black mess. One of the most annoying aspects of blanketweed is that it often grows freely in a pond that otherwise has completely clear water. Filamentous algae rarely accompanies suspended algae in the same pond.

When looking at the overall control of algae by natural means, it is the submerged aquatics that provide much of the solution. Their main task is to mop up nutrients in the water and to release oxygen during the day to sustain fish and other aquatic life. By removing excess nutrients from the water, they deprive green water-discolouring algae of the opportunity of becoming established. When planting a garden pond allow one bunch of submerged plants for every square foot of water surface area.

Green algae-laden water can also be controlled by the amount of light that is permitted to fall into the pond. Algae, like most other aquatic plants, must have full uninterrupted sunlight in order to prosper. Planting trees and shrubs to shade the pond is ill-advised as this will prevent the desirable plants like waterlilies and marginal aquatics from growing properly and will have an adverse effect upon their floral display. The solution is to provide shade on the surface of the water by means of floating plants and waterlily pads. These should not cover the entire pond, for cutting out the light completely beneath the water will cause the submerged plants to perish. No more than one third of the surface area of open water should be covered with foliage if green suspended algae is to be controlled successfully and submerged plants permitted to grow freely.

Philip Swindells has over 40 years gardening experience. A former botanical garden curator and an international horticultural consultant, he has worked extensively in the UK, North America, the Middle East and Australia. The Author of more than 50 gardening books, he has been awarded a Quill and Trowel Award by the Garden Writers’ Association of America. He is also a former UK Garden Writer of the Year. He is currently editor of http://www.internationalwatergardener.com.

Who says that Christmas lights are just for Christmas trees? In fact, why should they be limited to just one month of the year? Renowned designers across the globe are using miniature white lights-traditionally used only for Christmas time-to create unique and unforgettable statements in their client’s homes.

But you don’t have to be a designer (or hire one!) to learn how to use Christmas lights in your home décor. These versatile decorating tools can be used to create a whimsical look in a laundry room or bathroom, or a more formal look in your living or dining room. Take a look at the suggestions below and then scope out your own home-are there areas that could use a little "lighting up?"

Your Kitchen

Most kitchens are decorated in order to produce warm, friendly environments that friends and family can gather in and feel comfortable and at-home. That’s why they are the perfect environment for Christmas lights. We’ve all grown up with Christmas lights on our trees and automatically relate to them with a feeling of warmth. Try stringing a strand around that tall plant in the corner or along the bottom of your kitchen shelves.

Your Dining Room

A dining room is generally more formal, but that doesn’t mean you can’t use Christmas lights there, too. If you have formal draperies with a swag try running a line of tiny white lights along the inside of the swag. It will create a demure lighting effect that is sure to charm your dinner guests.

Your Bedroom

A bedroom should be decorated with quiet and peacefulness in mind. Imagine snuggling down under a canopy bed with lights gently trailing along the rim. If you don’t have a canopy you could create a "light forest" in the corner of the room. Simply place an odd number of large potted plants in the corner and string small Christmas lights around them. You can connect them all together for a more whimsical look, or string them separately for a formal design.

Living Room

If you want your living room to speak casualness or even whimsy, then Christmas lights add a great effect. If you have a fireplace, consider placing the lights along the mantel, then decorating it with greenery. If you carefully choose the décor that you place on top, it won’t look at all Christmasy. For example, you could place modern statues along the mantel, or country-style wooden décor.

Your Bathroom

Your bathroom is the perfect location for strands and strands of Christmas lights. But beware! This decorating idea isn’t for the faint-at-heart or conservative. Especially if your space is small, Christmas lights can open up the room by creating an airy look. Start by stringing the lights around the mirror, and then along the cabinets. If you’re really daring, create a fabric wrap-around your stand-alone sink, and then lay a strand of lights around it.

Garden

Finally, don’t limit Christmas lights to the inside of your home. If you have a garden in the backyard, what better way to show it off than to illuminate it with beautiful lighting? Wrap the trees, large bushes, and walkways with either traditional white bulbs, or go all out, and use coordinating colored ones as well. (You’re not just limited to red and greens anymore!)

However you use Christmas lights in your decorating styles, your home will be sure to stand out above the crowd!

These christmas lights tips are provided by http://www.ochristmaslights.com/ledchristmaslights/ - one of the biggest Christmas Lights resource sites on the web. Visit now for more info.

Once a new garden pond has been planted and the waterlilies and other aquatic plants have been established for four or five weeks, ornamental fish can be introduced. There is no minimum number of fish necessary for a pond, although without any fish at all it will become a nursery for mosquitoes and there will be little chance of controlling aquatic insect pests. Even for the pond-keeper with little interest in ornamental fish, it is prudent to introduce half a dozen merely to control insect life.

The majority of pond-keepers find fish as important as plants, especially those who have a young family. Children love fish, although there is a danger of over-stocking, for there never seems to be enough in any pond for young children. There is also impatience to get the new pond stocked immediately it is filled with water. This must be resisted until the plants have had an opportunity to establish. While there is no minimum requirement for fish, there is a maximum number that should not be exceeded.

The most satisfactory stocking rate is 2ins length of fish to every 1 square foot of surface area. This is not of the total surface area of the pond but of open water uncluttered by marginal plants. This rate of stocking permits growth and development of the fish and makes natural breeding likely. Fish enthusiasts will often stock more heavily than this, but an absolute maximum is 6ins to every 1 square foot of surface area.

When purchasing fish a good guide as to whether they are healthy is the condition of their fins. Stout upright dorsal fins and well-expanded ventral fins are an indication of good health and this can be confirmed if the eyes are clear and bright as well. An obvious consideration when selecting fish is their liveliness. However, while a lively fish is likely to be a healthy fish, it could equally be a very hungry fish. It is common practice with many fish retailers to keep the fish a little hungry. This ensures that they swim and dart about the tank in search of morsels of food and therefore appear livelier than they would ordinarily. An added bonus is the reduction in the fouling in the tank.

With small fish it is important to see that there are no damaged or missing scales as exposed tissue is very susceptible to fungal infection. The same applies to larger specimens, although it is not so critical, and the likelihood of finding a large fish that has no scales missing is fairly remote. If an otherwise healthy fish has a few scales missing, then dip it in a proprietary fungus cure. It is prudent in any event to treat all newly purchased fish in this way as a precaution before introducing them to the pond.

Philip Swindells has over 40 years gardening experience. A former botanical garden curator and an international horticultural consultant, he has worked extensively in the UK, North America, the Middle East and Australia. The Author of more than 50 gardening books, he has been awarded a Quill and Trowel Award by the Garden Writers’ Association of America. He is also a former UK Garden Writer of the Year. He is currently editor of http://www.internationalwatergardener.com.

What does a spider and an orchid plant have in common? Yes, Halloween is a special day. Brassia orchid plant is a name given to these spider orchids. Indeed, you can see the resemblance to the spider in this picture.

These beautiful orchids are from the Genus, Brassia, the spider orchid. The long and slender petals and septals are like spider legs. They are named in honor of William Brass, a 19th-century British botanical illustrator, this orchid grows in the wet forests of tropical Central and South America, but it is also comfortable in cultivation.

Many species in the genus Brassia orchid plants are pollinated by parasitic wasps, which normally lay their eggs on spiders. The patterns and structure of Brassia orchids resemble a spider in its web enough to encourage these wasps to lay their eggs in the plants’ blossoms and in doing so pollinate them.

The flower spike will provide you with a number of these flowers which do resemble spiders along the spike. Brassias are crossed with Miltonia and Ondontoglossums to produce some very pretty orchid plants. Some have flowers that reach about 10 inches in diameter.

And did I mention they are extremely fragrant as well.

They are not hard to grow but do require some specific parameters for their growth. First, spider orchid plants do require either high intensity bright light. This can be diffuse light. They should not have the direct noon-time sunlight.

During the day and into their growth and blooming period they like temps between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. At night the temps for the Brassia orchid plant should be between 55 and 65. Just after their blooming period the Brassia orchid plant need a rest for several weeks. This means that the temperature should be kept on the lower end of the range, 55 - 60 degrees.

As far as watering, they need to be kept moist but not wet during their growing season. The growing period is during the development of the pseudopods which are flat and when the inflorescence (flower spike). After this period you should water only once a week.

Spider orchid plants do need both humidity and air circulation. The humidity is between 50-70%. This is a little higher than most orchids. For air circulation you can use a small fan, but don’t point the fan on the plant.

Now when you remember or see a spider you can imagine the beautiful Brassia orchid plant.

Did you enjoy this article? If you did sign up for more in our monthly newsletter. You will recieve free "All About Orchids" e-book and a 10% discount on an orchid plant.

Before heading out on that much deserved vacation, take some time to make a vacation watering plan. One tried-and-true method is to hire a responsible student to look after things for you, but there are also products and strategies for conserving and dispensing water while you are away that will make things easier for everyone all around.

Let’s take a look:

- For small potted plants, self-watering probes like the Plant Sitter system are great. A ceramic cone is soaked in water and then inserted into the soil near the base of the plant. An additional water reservoir hangs on the side of the pot with a microtube connecting the cone to the reservoir. When the soil becomes dry, water is siphoned through the tube to the cone, and released into the soil. These probes automatically water when needed without any intervention or electrical controls.

- For large indoor plants, the Oasis watering system can water indoors for up to 40 days. It runs on standard 9V battery and does not require connection to taps or electrical outlets. Up to 20 potted plants can be watered using this system. A 6.5 gallon water reservoir is positioned above the plants. Tubes connected to water drippers are inserted into the soil at the base of each plant.

- Indoor watering kits with 45’ x ¼” coil hose attaches easily to your standard house faucet and deliver fine mist to stream.

- Outdoor landscape drip kits and drip irrigation systems with controllers provide timed and regulated deep-root watering without supervision.

- Non-toxic crystals, like Terra-Sorb, absorb 200 times their weight in water and release the water as needed into the soil

- To minimize moister evaporation and over-drying, move indoor and outdoor plants away from direct sunlight and give them a deep watering just prior to your departure.

Leanne Tremblay is the successful publisher of Learn About Garden Irrigation, an information site about good garden watering practices, sprinkler and drip irrigation products, hoses, and rain barrels.

Propagating your own plants from seeds is much more rewarding and less expensive than buying seedlings from the garden supply shop. One of the first things you will need is a box or tray approximately 3 to 4 inches deep, 12 to 14 inches wide, and 20 to 24 inches long.

Once you have your planting box, fill it with a suitable seed raising mix. A good medium would be 80-85% washed river sand and 15-20% peat moss. If you prefer to buy a bag of seed raising mix, visit your local garden supply store. One you have your medium, fill the box almost to the top, and then pat down the medium firmly.

Prepare the medium for planting your seeds by making rows across the box. They should be one quarter to half inch deep and 2 inches apart.

The seed should be distributed 8 or 10 to the inch in the rows and then be covered. Move the box to a warm shaded place.

It is important to water regularly during germination, however the soil should be kept moist not wet. If the water starts running out the bottom of the box you are over doing it and the soil will become waterlogged. If this happens, the seeds could rot and fail to germinate.

If you can cover the box with a piece of glass or even saran wrap, this will hold the moisture, creating a microclimate, which will hasten germination. Once the seedlings germinate the lid can be removed and the seedlings can gradually be introduced to stronger light - next to a window would be ideal.

When the plants are one inch to an inch and a half high they should be thinned to one or two inches apart in the row, to give them space enough to make a strong stocky growth. If you wish to keep the plants that have been thinned, they must be planted two inches apart each way in boxes similar to the seed box.

When the weather becomes mild, the box of plants should be set out of doors part of the time so that the plants will harden in preparation for transplanting to the garden later. Give the seedlings a good watering just before transplanting so that a ball of earth will stick to the roots.

By raising seedlings in this controlled climate of germination, they will be hardier and flourish. You will also have the added satisfaction of having done all the work yourself.

For more information on gardening, visit the link at the bottom of the page.

For more information, visit The Garden Supply Guide and The Garden Info Center

David Chandler, The Stock Market Genie

For your FREE Stock Market Trading Mini Course: "What The Wall Street Hot Shots Won’t Tell You!" go to: The Stock Market Genie

Few people know how to improve their gardens. Many of us have grown so accustomed to the vertical rectangular beds of flowers and the quadrangle greenery zones, that we don’t even get to think how to change that. Landscape gardening is the way to increase the natural look of your garden and turn it into something more beautiful and attractive. Many people would give a lot of money to achieve a better look of their gardens. But why spend a sum of fortune, when you can actually do it yourselves? Yes, yourselves. Landscape gardening can be done by almost everyone with basic carpentry skills. It is an easy procedure that virtually transfers your garden into architectural beauty.

What you need is some time off, and some cedar boards and screws. The idea came to me from a garden project magazine, where architecture of simple raised strawberry and herb gardens was presented. By that time I already had my rectangular flowerbeds in the backyard, and I was getting really tired of them. Suddenly, to my mind cropped up that raised gardens could be used not only for strawberry or herb growing. It could be used to enhance the landscape of my own commonplace garden! That was my first step in landscape gardening. My second one was that I ran to the garage and picked up my carpentry tools, which I was going to use for the construction.

How did the construction work take place? I used similar plans like those in the magazine for creating raised strawberry garden tiers. The difference was that I made three large squares out of the cedar boards size 1’’ to 6’’. The design was simple and the price of all was close to minimal. Remember that doing landscape gardening and creating a new design for you garden doesn’t always include expensive operations and sophisticated skills. You just need to keep the enthusiasm, and that will certainly happen if carpentry is your passion. It happened to become mine and doing my design gave me great satisfaction.

My idea was to build some kind of a pyramid, by putting the largest square, 48 ‘’ on a side, at the basis. The second square was 32’’ on a side, and was put over the soil of the first one, at a 90 angle to the one beneath it. The top square, size 21’’ on a side, was put over the second one, turned at 90 angles to the one beneath it. It worked perfect and the result was overwhelming!

Afterwards I built two more sets with one and two levels, and my garden really became futuristic. The vertical levels gave a broader perspective of the garden, and wholly changed the landscape. The squares looked like diamonds, when they were turned at an angle. I composted the soil and replanted the potted perennials, which I had uprooted during construction work. The pyramid was located at the center of the garden, and that turned out to be the perfect place. With each tier having been turned at a different angle, different diamond shapes and multi-dimensional structure occurred. I created a number of triangular shapes as well. In winter, all the different shapes would make my garden more interesting. The cedar boards added to the woody atmosphere. After some time, they would acquire silver-gray color that would give some authenticity of the landscape. I put strategically orientated fieldstones, bricks and stepping-stones, so that a more naturalistic look was acquired. This way of landscape gardening not only changed the flatness of my garden by adding vertical dimensions, but it also created beautiful series of interesting patterns.

Of course, that was just an example. If you get involved with landscape gardening, you can find your own ways to make your garden more attractive. The important thing is to use your imagination. Landscape gardening doesn’t require anything more than this. The expenses are negligibly small, and you don’t need to be a professional carpenter to understand what it is all about

For more information click Landscape Gardening Article by Robbie Darmona - an article writer who writes on a wide variety of subjects.

What better way to spend a lazy summer day than sitting on a beautiful garden bench. The humble garden bench can hold a special place in our hearts and our memories. Do you remember sitting with a grandparent, parent or other family member just relaxing and enjoying the view? On the other hand, does your garden bench have a more romantic memory shared with your significant other?

Location, location, location! The location of your bench should be placed some distance from your home, if possible, and within view from your home. The bench will then call out to you to take a walk, sit down, relax, and enjoy the view. A good tip to remember is it is not where the bench looks good, but what looks good when sitting on your bench!

Garden benches come in a variety of colors and materials. The type of bench you choose is a matter of taste, although when selecting your bench, consider practicality as well as being an ornamental garden feature.

Wood benches made from hardwood such as teak, redwood, mahogany, or cedar can stay outside year-round. While these benches are pricey, they are not rot-resistant and will turn a silver gray color when left unattended. These benches need to be washed once a year with mild soap and a bit of bleach. Benches made from pressure-treated wood (as seen on decks) are another option. Painted benches made from wood should remain inside or under cover.

Metal benches options are cast or tubular aluminum, wrought iron. Although wrought iron is nice to behold, it will rust and therefore should be saved for indoor use. Cast aluminum benches are poured into molds and therefore can simulate wood or wrought iron. Aluminum benches can come in all different colors and antique finishes. The paint is baked on for durability and these benches can easily be cleaned with soap and water.

Benches made from carved stone, stone slabs, and cast stone require no maintenance other than an occasional dusting off debris.

Wicker and rattan settees say "garden," but save them for covered porches or inside. There are All-weather wicker benches, usually made from woven synthetics on an aluminum frame, which can go outside.

Also, do not rule out low-priced plastic or resin benches. They are lightweight and wash up with soap and water, though prolonged exposure to the elements can make them brittle.

For more information about garden benches, visit The Garden Bench Guide
and Garden Furniture Info

David Chandler, The Stock Market Genie
For your FREE Stock Market Trading Mini Course: "What The Wall Street Hot Shots Won’t Tell You!" go to: The Stock Market Genie